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Old 05-13-2009, 08:40 AM   #226
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that's good to know, as I have won 2 extra fronts and one extra rear. Just in case. Keep all the info ,problems we have had with the x-2. this forum has more info about this car then the ofna site. All so I am a begging racer, have done 2 so far. So for me any advice,help is greatly appreciated. I am in a point series where I got or had to start in the sportsmen series[no novice] and just by showing up to the events and running I am currently 5th over all. I am racing a hyper 8.5. If you saw me drive you would know why. But I have stocked up on extra parts for the x-2 so I am planning on finishing the series with that car.
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Old 05-13-2009, 09:41 AM   #227
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Agree with you about the C hub. I used a dremel and beveled the front of it significantly. Now it handles much better, turns better, and has better on and off power steering. I am using 5/5/4 in the diffs and it really has calmed the rear end down from what the box stock specs were. Overall i am very happy with it and would love to see an updated C hub.
How well does the Buggy perform with the 5/5/4 setup, with on/off power steering. Is it a noticable difference from the recommended 5/5/3? Looking to set up the X2B for a med size track, hard packed with little to no loam.
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Old 05-14-2009, 07:28 AM   #228
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The 5-5-3 diff setup is very forgiving and we use it for loose dusty tracks. When I go to a clay or high traction track I go back to 7-7-3. If it's inside and really tight I will go down to 2 in the rear to help the car rotate turns better.
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Old 05-14-2009, 09:45 AM   #229
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The 5-5-3 diff setup is very forgiving and we use it for loose dusty tracks. When I go to a clay or high traction track I go back to 7-7-3. If it's inside and really tight I will go down to 2 in the rear to help the car rotate turns better.
Thanks for the info, will start with the 5/5/3. Really looking forward to putting the new car on the track in less than 2 weeks now, especially with what everyone has stated about the X2's new level of performance/capabilities.
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Old 05-16-2009, 08:46 AM   #230
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I have a brand new pivot ball kit for the x1x and by the looks of it I think it will.
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I beveled the top front of the C Hub so when you turn the wheel all the way to the right or left it has some clearance. This is a must if you are using regular buggy wheels as opposed to the newer bigger diameter wheels that they have now. I am currently running the jconcept rulux wheels and was having clearance issues. I will take a pic of where i beveled when i get a sec.

ANYONE KNOW IF THE JAMMIN X1 PIVOT BALL UPGRADE FITS THE X2?
Yeah, it may fit, but you'd just be adding weight and decreasing steering even more... I doubt you'd be going in the right direction there...
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Old 05-18-2009, 07:05 PM   #231
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I have the jammin 2 piece engine mount in my new X2 buggy, but after one race day the rear center driveshaft (dogbone) has a groove machined into it from the engine mount bolt, also some scuffs from it hitting the rear chassis brace. Anyone else experiencing this? There is obviously minimal clearance here, and when the chassis flexes it is rubbing.
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Old 05-18-2009, 09:53 PM   #232
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I have the jammin 2 piece engine mount in my new X2 buggy, but after one race day the rear center driveshaft (dogbone) has a groove machined into it from the engine mount bolt, also some scuffs from it hitting the rear chassis brace. Anyone else experiencing this? There is obviously minimal clearance here, and when the chassis flexes it is rubbing.
I grind down the rear corner of the block, on the engine, It also hits on the rear brace, I never figured that one out, but it never hurt anything either,

Grind the edge of the engines mount about 45 Deg down and radius the corner, at the 90 deg, spot, it will no longer be an issue. Never had a problem with breakage,But the wear stopped. It only takes 1 or 2 mmm to fix the issue, I dremmeled a bit and marked the wear areas with a black marker, raced again and made a small "adjustment" Marker, Done, Issue was gone.

Its just a lil bit so start slow.
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Old 05-18-2009, 09:54 PM   #233
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I have the jammin 2 piece engine mount in my new X2 buggy, but after one race day the rear center driveshaft (dogbone) has a groove machined into it from the engine mount bolt, also some scuffs from it hitting the rear chassis brace. Anyone else experiencing this? There is obviously minimal clearance here, and when the chassis flexes it is rubbing.
Yah it is close just dremal the corner of the block slightly it should remedy it .Check all your chassis braces as well ,that should do the trick ...stay fast! Kaulin
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Old 05-18-2009, 09:58 PM   #234
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I forgot to mention, I had this issue with OS,RB,Nova,SH,Go and some off shoots of the aforementioned engines.
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Old 05-18-2009, 10:28 PM   #235
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Funny, no clearance issues at all with my RB c6
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Old 05-19-2009, 04:36 AM   #236
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if you run the stock mounts you should have no probs. if you run the one-piece, or the quick-change mounts, I guess they come closer and have seen a couple where it wore a distinguished groove into the driveshaft. Just dremel or switch I guess. But, yeahh, like Kaulin said, make sure your chassis braces are tight, because the chassis may just have too much "twisting" taking place if they're loose a bit.

I had a lot of chassis wear taking place in the rear of the car, and found that the diff groove was so thin at one point, the thing was about to break through... So I just ordered the plastic rear chassis guard for the X2 CRT from ofna and been running it since. It works well. Once you get it on, just dremel down the front edge a bit so it glides over the ground better on hard landings... It will happen on its' own, but it took too long for me, so I just chamfered the leading edge. Now that it has a couple races on it, it is smoothed down enough to where I am comfortable with the slight loss in ground clearance. Im kinda picky as to that sorta thing, but it's not bad here.

I also picked up a front bumper for the Kyosho mp777 from DE racing as we talked about a few pages back... It fits good, but has that underside that also protects the chassisin the front under the diff. It's a good thing I guess and doesnt really have any bad effects, but it does bother me a bit that it isn't a solid feel at the rear on the bottom. I thought about trimming it shorter, but I don't really see a need. I did have a run-away headed down the front straight at rev on saturday, and after hitting the pipe at approx. 35 mph and jumping like 8 feet in the air straight-up, tires ballooning like crazy, landed on it's wheels, and shot-off again right into the wall! That bad-ass bumper saved my front end though, cuz it was flexed in and the tabs that keep it rigid in the front that sit against the front hingepin carrier were bent to sh*t, and it still survived ok... I will prob try the stock one again just to see if I notice a difference, in front-end drag when landing nose down, but I think its' a keeper, for sure.

I asked Jay about running a 3 degree rear anti-squat plate to keep the rear end from dragging/squatting a lot, and he said they've tried that, but the sloution is just running the rear hubs forward, and the driveshafts do their part in keeping the car flat under power. I switched them back, because I figured a longer wheelbase is ideal for stability, but he said its' a definite no-no, and to switch it back. I had switched to alum. rear hubs, and there's less gap, so you can only use one spacer front or rear, and i put it in back. It seemed to help a little.

Oh, and one last thing, as this post is getting loooong...

I finally snapped a carbon front shock tower in qualifying. I was getting pretty confident that they could withstand any kind of abuse, and didnt notice when it exactly happened, but upon further review after the round, I looked at the front tower and it had cracked slightly all the way accross where the front upper bulkhead mounting screws pass through... Didnt end my race though, and prob. would have survived the rest of the day, as it still felt plenty rigid, but it was noticeable, so I swapped it back to the alum. tower. Figure I'll prob. stick to the alum. ones for now. They are plenty light, and a bit stronger...

-J
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Old 05-24-2009, 09:52 AM   #237
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Finally got to race again yesterday and I'm really liking Gosch's setup more and more. Went back to blue front springs, made sure ride height and droop were correct and car is just perfect. Very driveable and forgiving. Qualified 2nd and was running second when I lost my clutch bearings. Oh well.

As a bonus, David from DE Racing pulled a new X2 Bumpskid out of his pocket and handed it to me. Thanks David! He said they are ready to order, he just doesn't have them up on his website yet. You can email them to order it and in the meantime I'll try to get the part number and post up.
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Old 05-24-2009, 02:28 PM   #238
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has any one tried these on there buggy? DE Racing skid plates. If so how did or do you like them? sugs how do they work for you? I saw a pic that they were using them both front and rear.

Last edited by bigmatt; 05-24-2009 at 02:30 PM. Reason: make to read
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Old 05-24-2009, 03:40 PM   #239
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On my other brand buggy the front DE skid lasted about 8-9 gal before it broke & like Jason said you can see damage to it that may have ended my day if it was stock.The rears are up to your track,if you have lots of big rocks in the top of the dirt you would have to flip a coin on hinderence or savior.I have used the rear since my other brand buggy was new & at 15 or so gallons I'm ready to replace the chasis for other reasons but rear & front are like new.Loss of chassis clearance is not a concern unless you are fast enough to need the extra 1.5mm & thats faster than top of the grid sportsman in Socal.
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Old 05-24-2009, 04:04 PM   #240
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has any one tried these on there buggy? DE Racing skid plates. If so how did or do you like them? sugs how do they work for you? I saw a pic that they were using them both front and rear.
They basically work as advertised. At my track the rear skid will last 3-4 race days. Even though you can, DE Racing doesn't recommend using a rear on the front as it doesn't have a bevel to do that, and can dig in and get dirt underneath it when the nose hits the dirt. I actually tried it myself and even though I beveled the front edge, it still got dirt underneath, causing it to catch on the ground and digging in worse. The bumpskid is a better choice for the front and even though it costs more, will last much longer than the skids.
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