Jammin' X2 Buggy
04-21-2009, 04:57 PM
#166
Actually, there is no reason this isn't one of the most durable cars out there. It was one of the reasons I decided to drive it. Was just sick of having parts wear out and break all the time. It is well known as that. Watch a couple of guys with it, and see how often they don't finish a race due to breakage... It's kinda rare. Plus, we're just trying our hardest to come up with things that may be of concern so we can pick it apart and make it better. That's what makes it fun. I mean, comeon... a screw bending is going to determine what car you drive...? I've seen 0 issues with the rest of the car. The driveshafts last longer than the HB or losi's did for me... and upon further review, the diffs are wearing just fine. I doubt I'll need to replace any parts for quite awhile... Just concerned what would make you fear upgrading your car, now that you have an idea of where to strengthen and reinforce it to prevent any issues whatsoever... Stick to it. You'll be happy you did.
Let's see... The only other thing I have had to replace is the wheel/axle bearings as they seemed to take on dirt too quickly and got rough. They didnt blow up or freeze completely. They just got dirt inside it seems, so I switched them out for TKO ceramics. You can check them out here>>> http://tkocompetitiondev.com/product...roducts_id=155
They are fantastic. No problems since...
Oh, and by the way... I got a few sets of these clutch bearings from Peter as well, and they are absolutely fantastic. I was worried about switching back to standard sized clutch bearings, being that the HB ones are slightly larger and seemed to last a long time, and I remember having to switch them out more often with my old Kyosho and Mugen cars - But these directional 5x10x4's are worth every penny, and I've been on the same set for over a gallon now, and they have gotten smoother if anything... He said he's personally gone 3-4 gallons on a set, and then switched them out as preventative maint., but that's it! Here, check em out... http://tkocompetitiondev.com/product...roducts_id=341
Sounds about right. I have finished every qualifier, and every main, as well as every practice session on the car so far, and after 2+ gal on a brand new car, that's pretty good, I'd say...
Yeah, I am trying the dual-washers now, but hadn't in the past. I never had a problem with the washer in front like it is now. Hoping it'll fix this. I believe it will.
Hmmm... Why would you have an issue with the ride height? You're using the white springs in back and stock blue up front? Is there any binding that is taking place? Do you have the shocks built with too much pressure? I'm not sure if that's even possible with the stock bladders in them... Are they built per the manual? Try dissecting the front end first and checking each thing oone by one.
1. Free movement throughout the suspension range
2. Shock build quality - is anything binding? how far do the shock shafts come out on their own when compressed without springs on them?
3. Sway bar tightness - You left the set-screws that secure the sway bar loose enough for it to move freely in the channel, correct?
4. Post a pic of your front end completely assembled. Drop the car from 12-16 inches and then take a pic.
I'm a little baffled as to what it could be. I run the shock collars almost all the way up, but don't get the bones above level unless I adjust them down a ways... Lets see what you are talking about...
Let's see... The only other thing I have had to replace is the wheel/axle bearings as they seemed to take on dirt too quickly and got rough. They didnt blow up or freeze completely. They just got dirt inside it seems, so I switched them out for TKO ceramics. You can check them out here>>> http://tkocompetitiondev.com/product...roducts_id=155
They are fantastic. No problems since...
Oh, and by the way... I got a few sets of these clutch bearings from Peter as well, and they are absolutely fantastic. I was worried about switching back to standard sized clutch bearings, being that the HB ones are slightly larger and seemed to last a long time, and I remember having to switch them out more often with my old Kyosho and Mugen cars - But these directional 5x10x4's are worth every penny, and I've been on the same set for over a gallon now, and they have gotten smoother if anything... He said he's personally gone 3-4 gallons on a set, and then switched them out as preventative maint., but that's it! Here, check em out... http://tkocompetitiondev.com/product...roducts_id=341
Sounds about right. I have finished every qualifier, and every main, as well as every practice session on the car so far, and after 2+ gal on a brand new car, that's pretty good, I'd say...
Yeah, I am trying the dual-washers now, but hadn't in the past. I never had a problem with the washer in front like it is now. Hoping it'll fix this. I believe it will.
Hmmm... Why would you have an issue with the ride height? You're using the white springs in back and stock blue up front? Is there any binding that is taking place? Do you have the shocks built with too much pressure? I'm not sure if that's even possible with the stock bladders in them... Are they built per the manual? Try dissecting the front end first and checking each thing oone by one.
1. Free movement throughout the suspension range
2. Shock build quality - is anything binding? how far do the shock shafts come out on their own when compressed without springs on them?
3. Sway bar tightness - You left the set-screws that secure the sway bar loose enough for it to move freely in the channel, correct?
4. Post a pic of your front end completely assembled. Drop the car from 12-16 inches and then take a pic.
I'm a little baffled as to what it could be. I run the shock collars almost all the way up, but don't get the bones above level unless I adjust them down a ways... Lets see what you are talking about...
04-21-2009, 07:06 PM
#167
Tech Regular
as far as the front ride height goes i would check:
1. that you are checking the ride height with the body on and a half tank of fuel. you should always check ride height this way.
2. the springs will settle like sugs said
3. might have long shock bottoms on like sugs said as well.
the collers should be very close to the top but not all the way.
1. that you are checking the ride height with the body on and a half tank of fuel. you should always check ride height this way.
2. the springs will settle like sugs said
3. might have long shock bottoms on like sugs said as well.
the collers should be very close to the top but not all the way.
04-21-2009, 09:25 PM
#169
Tech Adept
Thread Starter
Dang - Camera battery is drained and can't find charger... Oh well. I already sanded the part trying to flatten it out, I forgot. You can still get the idea, but not the original look... I guess it doesn't matter. Hopefully my washer trick will solve it. It should I'd think...
Last edited by NsideLine; 04-21-2009 at 10:00 PM. Reason: Followup
04-25-2009, 09:43 AM
#171
Love the new Jammin X2 Buggy forum and look forward to seeing new setups, techniques and working towards making the new car work the best. Thanks to all who keep it going. I started the Buggy conversion on leave last winter and have a new kit waiting to be built upon redeploying in about a month. I cannot wait to get it on the track and begin learning to drive the new car. Rick, thanks for all your assistance in the past while I raced in and around TN, your advice always helped to keep the Jammin Buggy in the top 3 at my local and near club races. Attempted to post a pic or link of the new Buggy, but no luck. Hope to see you this summer if I get a chance to visit ID/WA.
Jason Burks
USA, 1SG
Jason Burks
USA, 1SG
04-25-2009, 09:44 PM
#172
Has anyone used an aftermarket or ? brand rubber dust boot, to cover universal or aluminum drive shaft/cap joint points, where you can lube and keep protected from dirt, etc? I'm Considering this to minimize wear on the new aluminum drive shafts. Any recomendations are greatly appreciated.
JB
JB
04-26-2009, 09:05 AM
#174
Thanks, Marz. I've been using O'Donnell KryTech lubricant in the past and seemed to work decently for reducing parts wear. I recently began using the Eureka Lube on internal Ring/Pinion gears, but haven't had the opportunity to use the car yet. Is it recommend to use on the exposed parts also without collecting to much dirt or stick to the KryTech?
04-26-2009, 04:50 PM
#175
Thanks, Marz. I've been using O'Donnell KryTech lubricant in the past and seemed to work decently for reducing parts wear. I recently began using the Eureka Lube on internal Ring/Pinion gears, but haven't had the opportunity to use the car yet. Is it recommend to use on the exposed parts also without collecting to much dirt or stick to the KryTech?
I use it most places, and then a quick spray of CRC Dry Glide, which had teflon like properties, and prevents dust build up!
04-26-2009, 04:56 PM
#176
who's running what? shock set ups,diff set ups, those sort of things. I read through this whole thread and have yet to see anything posted. I am not talking about bradly's farm set up, I am talking about the set ups we tried.
04-26-2009, 07:57 PM
#177
Well, I tried Matt Gosch's setup this weekend and really liked it. You can find it on jamminproducts.com. Only thing I did different was switch to silver front springs because there was way too much steering for the traction conditions at my local track.
04-27-2009, 06:17 AM
#179
Tech Adept
Thread Starter