Jammin' X2 Buggy
04-17-2009, 10:10 AM
#136
Suspended
Hi.
Like i said before, i'm using the plastic brace at the front, no issues at all until this point.
The X2 chassis is longer but only in the rear, front part is just like the X1, so the front braces are exactly the same.
Like i said before, i'm using the plastic brace at the front, no issues at all until this point.
The X2 chassis is longer but only in the rear, front part is just like the X1, so the front braces are exactly the same.
04-17-2009, 11:30 AM
#137
thanks for clearing that up, I knew one of them had changed.
04-17-2009, 03:33 PM
#138
Suspended
No problem!
04-17-2009, 08:06 PM
#140
One thing I'm a little concerned with, is the angle of the front end. Not really the geometry of the suspension/chassis, but the fact that the bumper and front kick up plate are snub-nosed and slightly low to the ground. Is there anyone who makes a bumper for the car that has a smooth angle to it, and would allow the car to recover a little better if it lands front end down and digs in a bit? The stock setup seems to want to dig a hole in the dirt and flip the car when landing at an acceptable angle, where my old car would recover and continue without a problem. It caused me to go from first to last after a crash on the second lap of the main last we.
Yeah, I've noticed this too. DE Racing is supposed to be close to coming out with a Jammin front bump skid, but I haven't seen it yet. I'll have to ask Dave next time I see him at ARC. Here's the link to his site.
http://deracing.net/products.htm
04-18-2009, 12:19 PM
#142
What's the Diffs???
I have been running the X2 for about four months, good setup, I struggled with the twitchness of the new layout, I am currently running 10-20-5 in the diffs, that help me keep the rear end Behind the front where it belongs, with 5-5-2 it was real easy to loop it out, I used to run my clutch real snappy on the X-1 but have it set soft on the X2 the car accelerates like a rocket! ZTurns better and jumps better, I race one a week and so far this year raced the Nitro challenge with it, I did crack a front shock tower at the pit, (Jammin Jay hooked me up with a replacement) but that was on a whiskey throttle save attemt over Joe Mountain, Chassis wear has been acceptable, I am still running the Carbon towers, the seem to be really durable, just CA the sides. I went to Neg 3 Deg. all the way around on camber, and have settled on 3.25 deg. rear toe in. 1 deg toe ut in the front, BB caster blocks, 2 deg anti squat, 2.5 mm fronont sway bar 0 pre load,2.8 rear 2mm pre load, I just "eyeball" the Rest!!! Its a good platform, I really like that 80% of my X-1 parts still work!!
04-19-2009, 12:19 AM
#143
Tech Adept
Thread Starter
One (1) front bumpskid plate for Kyosho MP777 / ST-R / ST-RR
This front bumpskid plate is for the Kyosho MP777
1/8 scale buggy and ST-R / ST-RR truggys.
Click the image at left for a larger picture.
Cost: $7.95 (Pack of 1) --- FREE SHIPPING! (within the U.S.A.)
04-19-2009, 07:11 PM
#146
Tech Adept
Thread Starter
04-19-2009, 07:15 PM
#147
To be honest, there's never been a flex issue that I've even seen with CF towers. Anyone I've ever seen break a CF tower was cos of a prang that would have been heavy enough to bust an alloy tower too. Weight diff isn't huge either. I actually was 'advised' by my sponsor to swap to the CNC ones, as his oppinion was there were better, but in reality, I don't think you'd notice.
04-19-2009, 07:32 PM
#148
Tech Adept
Thread Starter
Upper shock mount problem
Also, what has anyone done about the shock mount (upper) bending and getting deformed by flexing at the base? I know that the cause is the gap/cavern that is at the entrance to the shock mount itself... It creates a lever action putting the pressure onto the outside of the edge and if it sits right in the other shock-mount hole where the pressure is applied, it actually bends/compresses the aluminum, and bends the screw in that direction. It doesn't help that the mounting position is very long and far off the tower... It's longer than it seems is necessary, but... If you haven't experienced this then I'd be amazed. It seems to be a common problem across the board. Here's what I have done and what has worked... or rather, not...
1. locktite threads and washer at rear, tighten very tight...
2. Steel mounts instead of aluminum. (Still bends at screw and there's a greater risk of breaking/damaging the tower itself..) (Plus greater weight up high at top of towers)
3. Washer on inside of shock mount and front of tower position. (+ the back at the screw head as normal...) This didn' quite work, because I didnt have any longer screws without a tapered shank - no threads on beginning of shaft - and the tapered section was too long for the application. Therefore, the nuts wouldn't screw on far enough onto the screw ends... thanks to the extra spacers.)
4. I am using now - (Per Kaulin and Vance Hall's example...) I threaded slightly shorter screws into the back of the towers using both spacers - (front and back of the tower) then into the shock mounts, then I just used some tapered washers with screws threaded into the front half of the shock mount from the front end to hold the shock on... Worked well, but I'm not sure if it will do the trick...
In the end, I guess I'm looking to see if anyone has tried anything else, or maybe another brand of mounts too ensure this issue is resolved once and for all. It has to be a mount where the plastic spacer fits the upper shock caps from the Jammin' big bores... I don't have a ton of funds to just buy a bunch and try them, but I'd like to at least try the aluminum hot bodies ones they are now selling for the D8. I should have held onto a set had I known...
Thanks,
J
1. locktite threads and washer at rear, tighten very tight...
2. Steel mounts instead of aluminum. (Still bends at screw and there's a greater risk of breaking/damaging the tower itself..) (Plus greater weight up high at top of towers)
3. Washer on inside of shock mount and front of tower position. (+ the back at the screw head as normal...) This didn' quite work, because I didnt have any longer screws without a tapered shank - no threads on beginning of shaft - and the tapered section was too long for the application. Therefore, the nuts wouldn't screw on far enough onto the screw ends... thanks to the extra spacers.)
4. I am using now - (Per Kaulin and Vance Hall's example...) I threaded slightly shorter screws into the back of the towers using both spacers - (front and back of the tower) then into the shock mounts, then I just used some tapered washers with screws threaded into the front half of the shock mount from the front end to hold the shock on... Worked well, but I'm not sure if it will do the trick...
In the end, I guess I'm looking to see if anyone has tried anything else, or maybe another brand of mounts too ensure this issue is resolved once and for all. It has to be a mount where the plastic spacer fits the upper shock caps from the Jammin' big bores... I don't have a ton of funds to just buy a bunch and try them, but I'd like to at least try the aluminum hot bodies ones they are now selling for the D8. I should have held onto a set had I known...
Thanks,
J
04-19-2009, 07:51 PM
#150
Also, what has anyone done about the shock mount (upper) bending and getting deformed by flexing at the base? I know that the cause is the gap/cavern that is at the entrance to the shock mount itself... It creates a lever action putting the pressure onto the outside of the edge and if it sits right in the other shock-mount hole where the pressure is applied, it actually bends/compresses the aluminum, and bends the screw in that direction. It doesn't help that the mounting position is very long and far off the tower... It's longer than it seems is necessary, but... If you haven't experienced this then I'd be amazed. It seems to be a common problem across the board. Here's what I have done and what has worked... or rather, not...
1. locktite threads and washer at rear, tighten very tight...
2. Steel mounts instead of aluminum. (Still bends at screw and there's a greater risk of breaking/damaging the tower itself..) (Plus greater weight up high at top of towers)
3. Washer on inside of shock mount and front of tower position. (+ the back at the screw head as normal...) This didn' quite work, because I didnt have any longer screws without a tapered shank - no threads on beginning of shaft - and the tapered section was too long for the application. Therefore, the nuts wouldn't screw on far enough onto the screw ends... thanks to the extra spacers.)
4. I am using now - (Per Kaulin and Vance Hall's example...) I threaded slightly shorter screws into the back of the towers using both spacers - (front and back of the tower) then into the shock mounts, then I just used some tapered washers with screws threaded into the front half of the shock mount from the front end to hold the shock on... Worked well, but I'm not sure if it will do the trick...
In the end, I guess I'm looking to see if anyone has tried anything else, or maybe another brand of mounts too ensure this issue is resolved once and for all. It has to be a mount where the plastic spacer fits the upper shock caps from the Jammin' big bores... I don't have a ton of funds to just buy a bunch and try them, but I'd like to at least try the aluminum hot bodies ones they are now selling for the D8. I should have held onto a set had I known...
Thanks,
J
1. locktite threads and washer at rear, tighten very tight...
2. Steel mounts instead of aluminum. (Still bends at screw and there's a greater risk of breaking/damaging the tower itself..) (Plus greater weight up high at top of towers)
3. Washer on inside of shock mount and front of tower position. (+ the back at the screw head as normal...) This didn' quite work, because I didnt have any longer screws without a tapered shank - no threads on beginning of shaft - and the tapered section was too long for the application. Therefore, the nuts wouldn't screw on far enough onto the screw ends... thanks to the extra spacers.)
4. I am using now - (Per Kaulin and Vance Hall's example...) I threaded slightly shorter screws into the back of the towers using both spacers - (front and back of the tower) then into the shock mounts, then I just used some tapered washers with screws threaded into the front half of the shock mount from the front end to hold the shock on... Worked well, but I'm not sure if it will do the trick...
In the end, I guess I'm looking to see if anyone has tried anything else, or maybe another brand of mounts too ensure this issue is resolved once and for all. It has to be a mount where the plastic spacer fits the upper shock caps from the Jammin' big bores... I don't have a ton of funds to just buy a bunch and try them, but I'd like to at least try the aluminum hot bodies ones they are now selling for the D8. I should have held onto a set had I known...
Thanks,
J
I used Vibratite, On the Carbon towers, I never figured out this problem on the X1 with aluminum towers...They hammered themselfs at fourty bucks a pop, run the carbon towers...