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Old 03-30-2009, 12:56 PM   #31
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run in is complete when the engine drops temp instantly and gains power , usually happens within one or two laps while running on track . sometimes after 2 gallons NEVER START COLD!!!!!!!

Not to start anything here but how hot do you need to heat the motor before start? I dought the heat gun can heat the motor up to 200* evenly keeping in mind that the heat is being applied from the outside in so the temp inside the p/s is propbably not near 200*. And 200* is atleast the temp you need if your trying to prevent any premature wear... that's the temp the metals need to start to expand. right?

Just thinking out loud.
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Old 03-30-2009, 02:19 PM   #32
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Not to start anything here but how hot do you need to heat the motor before start? I dought the heat gun can heat the motor up to 200* evenly keeping in mind that the heat is being applied from the outside in so the temp inside the p/s is propbably not near 200*. And 200* is atleast the temp you need if your trying to prevent any premature wear... that's the temp the metals need to start to expand. right?

Just thinking out loud.
Keep in mind that aluminum is a great heat conductor.
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Old 03-30-2009, 03:27 PM   #33
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+1 and 9hrs is for the whole gallon but he says after half a gallon or more you can stop and maybe heat cycle or tune and be done... if im correct.. don't quote me of course
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Old 03-30-2009, 10:29 PM   #34
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Basically an advanced way would be to run 3-4 tanks and shut it off...let it cool...run another 3-4 tanks and so on...
This would be a combination of both methods i guess.

Regarding break in bench ...i suppose we need something to keep constant load on the engine...idling on the car doesn't do so.
I used to try very hard compound 1/8 on-road tyres and run them on pavement...the car spins very easily and this keeps a bit of load on the engine without stressing it.
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Old 03-31-2009, 07:31 PM   #35
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Not to start anything here but how hot do you need to heat the motor before start? I dought the heat gun can heat the motor up to 200* evenly keeping in mind that the heat is being applied from the outside in so the temp inside the p/s is propbably not near 200*. And 200* is atleast the temp you need if your trying to prevent any premature wear... that's the temp the metals need to start to expand. right?

Just thinking out loud.
Just to test a theory, I tried using my wife's hair dryer on my motor today. I got it up to 225* before I stopped. No need to go buy a heat gun if you can borrow or steal someone's hairdryer unless you still feather your hair for that hair helmet look, then you can use your own.
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Old 04-01-2009, 08:55 AM   #36
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Just to test a theory, I tried using my wife's hair dryer on my motor today. I got it up to 225* before I stopped. No need to go buy a heat gun if you can borrow or steal someone's hairdryer unless you still feather your hair for that hair helmet look, then you can use your own.

No need to fire it up with those temps, this could be a new break-in method just do it 6 more time and it's broke-in. Saves you nitro also.j/k

What i usually do is loosen the plug..put a sock over the head..lean it out about a full turn and fire it up and let it reach 200* Idle for the first tank.. let it cool down to about 100* and fire it up again and start running it 1/4 throttle. By the forth tank 1/2 throttle and pull the sock off and see what temps it reaches on it's own. By the sixth tank full throttle and start tunning "fine tuning".

RB PRODUCTS also has a great tunning method on there web site on how to tune and where to start with the low and high needles. Worked for me and it's dummy proof. I'll try to post it for those of you who have not seen it. Takes all the guessing out of tunning.

http://www.rbproducts.com/mainEn.php...e%20carburetor
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