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Old 03-23-2009, 05:51 AM   #1
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Default X1 CRT Fronts ballooning

I have a x1 crt with a sportwerks .26v2 and i just changed the diff oils up..I am now running 7/20/3. I have little to no on power steering due to the fronts blowing up and barley being on the ground. I know they say to go thicker in the center to stop the ballooning but i figured 20,000 would be plenty...any other thoughts on ballooning fronts and no on power steering on the X1 CRT...thanks for any help you may have..
chad

Last edited by chadwright; 03-23-2009 at 07:15 AM.
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Old 03-23-2009, 07:38 AM   #2
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Bump that front diff to 10k.
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Old 03-23-2009, 07:42 AM   #3
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so 7,20,10..will that just help the ballooning problem or will this help on power steering as well?
Chad
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Old 03-23-2009, 07:56 AM   #4
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10f 20c 7r that should do it. I have been up to 30 in the center though.
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Old 03-23-2009, 08:37 AM   #5
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chadwright- on the front tires why dont you just:
1. remove tire from rim
2. take foam out of tire
3 turn tire inside out and clean good
4. get some fiberglass tape about 1" wide or as wide as the tire width
5. place fiberglass tape or duct tape around the center of the tire without making tire out of
round.
6. make sure the ends of the tape arent in the same place so you dont have a
a bump
7. turn tire the right way and insert foam
8. put tire back together.

the fiberglass tape with stop the tire from ballooning as it wont let the tire swell. hope this helps.
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Old 03-23-2009, 08:41 AM   #6
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Another suggestion to try:

Don't use the throttle like an on-off switch.
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Old 03-23-2009, 09:54 AM   #7
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Start by dropping the center diff oil you have a lot of power you should'nt need 20k diff oil in the center.
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Old 03-23-2009, 11:05 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chadwright View Post
I have a x1 crt with a sportwerks .26v2 and i just changed the diff oils up..I am now running 7/20/3. I have little to no on power steering due to the fronts blowing up and barley being on the ground. I know they say to go thicker in the center to stop the ballooning but i figured 20,000 would be plenty...any other thoughts on ballooning fronts and no on power steering on the X1 CRT...thanks for any help you may have..
chad
Is only one tire or both ballooning? If it is only one tire (i.e the inside tire when coming out of a turn), then you may want to go up in diff fluid in the front. If you are running 10K or 20k in the center, it should not be overly diffing power to the front on any truggy or buggy. If you have something binding the rear of the truck it may be doing so regardless of the center diff fluid viscosity. I never owned a truggy X1 CRT, but I had the X1X CR buggy and the center diff plate wore and the rear brakes would hang up. Brad (DOMIT) had a similar issue. If you discover this to be your issue, I'd recommend tossing the carbon fiber diff plate and going with the aluminum one I'd also look at the bearings and drivetrain (in general) to make sure it is free.
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Old 03-23-2009, 11:20 AM   #9
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it is both tires..I just changed the diff oils and also put the sportwerks .26 in it..I was out trying to get the motor tuned when i noticed it...just a straight line run and the are blowing up (the fronts)...seems like its getting light on the front end (hence the no, on power steering) and blowing the wheels up...It could be totally something else...let me know your thoughts..
Chad
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Old 03-23-2009, 12:08 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chadwright View Post
it is both tires..I just changed the diff oils and also put the sportwerks .26 in it..I was out trying to get the motor tuned when i noticed it...just a straight line run and the are blowing up (the fronts)...seems like its getting light on the front end (hence the no, on power steering) and blowing the wheels up...It could be totally something else...let me know your thoughts..
Chad
Yup, what Ron said... that carbon center diff plate is just a problem waiting to happen IMHO. It caused me a headache with binding brakes until I figured out that a TINY bit of slop in the plate can cause it. The aluminum one wears much more slowly, and costs a lot less as a bonus.

I was half-kidding about the throttle thing... but I will tell you honestly if you are used to a .21 that motor that you have has more bottom end. (it is a GREAT motor BTW! Worth every penny and more...) You might even think about going up a tooth on the clutchbell to take some bottem end out of it. (and to help with top-end speed... it runs out of RPM before the .21 motors do.)

I ran 7-10-3 in my X1CRT and didn't have a problem with the tires ballooning. (unless I got too happy on the throttle of course...)

Also, you ARE running LPR wheels and tires, right? The MTR ones are good car stands, but that's about it.
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Old 03-23-2009, 12:56 PM   #11
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Chadwright, the one thing no one has asked is,
what tires are you running on your CRT. Some
tires are going to balloon, no matter what. I
myself have never liked tapeing tires. I always
just bought a better tire and gave the cheepies
to the basher kid up the street from me.
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Old 03-23-2009, 12:57 PM   #12
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Quote:
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Yup, what Ron said... that carbon center diff plate is just a problem waiting to happen IMHO. It caused me a headache with binding brakes until I figured out that a TINY bit of slop in the plate can cause it. The aluminum one wears much more slowly, and costs a lot less as a bonus.

I was half-kidding about the throttle thing... but I will tell you honestly if you are used to a .21 that motor that you have has more bottom end. (it is a GREAT motor BTW! Worth every penny and more...) You might even think about going up a tooth on the clutchbell to take some bottem end out of it. (and to help with top-end speed... it runs out of RPM before the .21 motors do.)

I ran 7-10-3 in my X1CRT and didn't have a problem with the tires ballooning. (unless I got too happy on the throttle of course...)

Also, you ARE running LPR wheels and tires, right? The MTR ones are good car stands, but that's about it.

DOMIT...what clutch bell was/are your running with your Sportwerks .26 ? This may be my problem as well as my overheat problem i am having with this motor..
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Old 03-23-2009, 12:58 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chadwright View Post
DOMIT...what clutch bell was/are your running with your Sportwerks .26 ? This may be my problem as well as my overheat problem i am having with this motor..
I ran a 14 on that motor. I ran a 13 on my VSPEC.

Overheating is usually from being too lean...
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Old 03-23-2009, 01:06 PM   #14
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Quote:
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I ran a 14 on that motor. I ran a 13 on my VSPEC.

Overheating is usually from being too lean...
It is not to lean unless the factory needle settings are totally incorrect...I have been battling this thing for a while now...factory specs are 2 out on the lsn and 3 1/2 out on the hsn...i can set it at this and it will start and run but load up bad on the bottom..once cleared out i can run some high speed runs with trail of smoke and still record temps around 270+ ...Any way you could just do a quick check of your needles for me? It just doesnt seem right...i cant get the idle down either...with the wheels off the ground they spin fairly fast...i can run the idle screw out to lower the idle but there is no change until it gets really really close to being close then the screw is so far out it starts to get a Lean/air leak sound to it...the motor is sealed and the idle grove has been scraped...no change...driving me nuts....
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Old 10-11-2009, 10:30 AM   #15
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If the rims do not have any holes, I assume the tires won't balloon? Is there a need to drill a hole in the rims then? What use is the hole?
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