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Old 03-21-2009, 01:27 AM   #1
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Default Help With Clutch Bell Screw

I am having a hard time getting the clutch bell screw off. I went to add some composite shoes on my clutch and I cannot get the screw off.

Needles to say I stripped the screw. I believe I was doing this right as I was holding the fly wheel with pliers and trying to unsrew the clutch bell screw.

Now my fly wheel wont even grab and it spins freely now. Was I doing somehting wrong when trying to get the bell off.

How should I get the screw off now that it is stripped. I took all of strength and couldnt get the screw to budge.

This sucks was hopping to do some practice on Saturday. Any help would be great.
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Old 03-21-2009, 01:37 AM   #2
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you could cut a line into it using a cut off wheel on a dremel and use a flat blade screw diver to get it out. Or you could use the same cut off wheel and cut of the edges of the screw and grip it with some pliers to take it off.
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Old 03-21-2009, 01:49 AM   #3
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Originally Posted by Alan D. View Post
you could cut a line into it using a cut off wheel on a dremel and use a flat blade screw diver to get it out. Or you could use the same cut off wheel and cut of the edges of the screw and grip it with some pliers to take it off.
I will also be cutting into the screw spacer as well since the screw sits flush into spacer on the clutch bell. I even tried heating up the screw and still could not get it off.

Is this normal? I tired turning the screw in the oposite direction (tightning) and is keeps spinning.
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Old 03-21-2009, 02:05 AM   #4
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had this problem once before...the solution [for me] was to do:

put the motor into my hand, with the backplate, deep into my palm.

Pull my thumb around one side of the flywheel and the middle finger and point finger around the otherside of the flywheel and pull back as hard as you can, then while your squeezing the flywheel back, try again to loosen the screw.

If you stripped the head of the screw, use a dremel to cut a straight notch in the head of the screw [make it deep] and use a straight screwdriver.

What this does, is 'wedges' the flywheel into the collar, since it 'crushes' together as an assembly on a tapered seat. This should [if your hands are built like mine] squeeze around the crank tight enough to keep it form slipping.

Hope this helps!
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Old 03-21-2009, 02:07 AM   #5
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A few questions. . .

Is the flywheel slipping when you try to remove the screw?

What type of screw is stuck(button head, socket head, counter sunk, etc)?

If the flywheel is slipping, then you will need to take the plug out either use a piston lock or get a conrod lock tool.
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Old 03-21-2009, 02:13 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gotspeed_2000 View Post
A few questions. . .

Is the flywheel slipping when you try to remove the screw?

What type of screw is stuck(button head, socket head, counter sunk, etc)?

If the flywheel is slipping, then you will need to take the plug out either use a piston lock or get a conrod lock tool.
^^Piston lock tool is a surefire method

My way saves 15 bucks if it works though
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Old 03-21-2009, 04:58 AM   #7
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Dremel it out!! Cut a straight notch in the screw, deep enough to get a flat head screwdriver in it and then use a flathead screwdriver to get it out. If this doesn't help angle the screwdriver down and tap it with a hammer (always works for me!)

Hope this helps.
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Old 03-21-2009, 07:15 AM   #8
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i think the flywheel is loose if i read his post correctly if thats the case you also need to stop the engine from turning fill the engine with afterrun oil so it hydolocksthen you should be able to get it loose after you dremel it
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Old 03-21-2009, 07:34 AM   #9
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Be careful if you have to dremmel the screw. If you break the screw head you will have to replace the shaft!!! I didn't like that experience.
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Old 03-21-2009, 08:51 AM   #10
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also there is this great thing called a grab it that I got. It comes in three different sizes and the bit just goes into your drill. One side drills into the screw then you flip it over and th other side grips the screw and pulls it right out.
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Old 03-21-2009, 09:53 AM   #11
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Take the exhaust off the engine. Stick the head of a zip-tye into the exhaust port with the piston at BDC. Turn the engine until the piston comes in contact with the zip-tye. Now you can use your screwdriver to get the CB screw off. Be sure to use a large ziptye so it doesnt get cut by the piston, a smaller one will be cut in-two and fall inside the engine.

Your probably should replace your collet and maybe your flywheel. And make sure you get that flywheel nut really tight with some blue threadlock on the shaft threads.
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Old 03-21-2009, 10:54 PM   #12
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One thing that you guys had forgot to ask is if he used any lock tite on the CB screw? If so what color lock tite? If you used the red color lock tite, then good luck with trying to get the screw off. If you used the blue lock tite then there's still hope.
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Old 03-22-2009, 12:34 AM   #13
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Take the exhaust off the engine. Stick the head of a zip-tye into the exhaust port with the piston at BDC. Turn the engine until the piston comes in contact with the zip-tye. Now you can use your screwdriver to get the CB screw off. Be sure to use a large ziptye so it doesnt get cut by the piston, a smaller one will be cut in-two and fall inside the engine.

Your probably should replace your collet and maybe your flywheel. And make sure you get that flywheel nut really tight with some blue threadlock on the shaft threads.

Did this. Worked perfect. Dremel came in quite handy. I used blue loctite. No more loctite for me on this hex screw.
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Old 03-22-2009, 02:36 AM   #14
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Zip ties sure can be used for alot of purposes. You really shouldn't be using loctite on this screw for the very reason. Also, you may want to conisder changine to cap head screws to retain the clutch bearings. It's a larger hex and it's easier to remove should you strip out the hex.
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Old 03-22-2009, 03:51 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dishsoap View Post
Did this. Worked perfect. Dremel came in quite handy. I used blue loctite. No more loctite for me on this hex screw.
The loctite was not the problem. The amount you used was the problem. You only need enough to go in the threads. Use permatex its a gel and its not messy.

Actually sounds like you had 2 or 4 problems in this scenario.

2nd problem was you didn't tighten your flywheel down properly because it should have never slipped.

3rd sounds like you did not insert the hex all the way into the head. Before trying to loosen causing it to strip.

4th You are using a standard hex on a metric screw or vice versa. This will strip a screw every time. It allows just enough play for the hex to turn inside the screw when allot of torque is applied. Generally you can be successfull doing this as long as the screw is not hard to get out.

Buy a good set of HEX drivers SAE and METRIC. Since I did this I have never striped a scew. and on 1 occasion broke a driver but did not strip the screw lol. Getting the right tools is actually the best money spent in this hobby.

When you use the right size hex on a screw and insert it all the way in the cavity. It's nearly impossible to strip it. Hex is designed to fit in such a manor where this cant happen. This was not an attack on you but simply passing on knowledge from making the same mistakes. You DO want to use loctite on that screw just enough to get into the grooves of the thread. Not to mention you only need it on the bottom 1/3 of the screw.
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