header to pipe connection help
Ok, I know I'm not the only one who has trouble keeping the pipe
inside the rubber piece between the pipe and header. Zip ties on, everything tightened up and such, but still sometimes the pipe will come out ...... dangit !!!! |
Originally Posted by DTM_Motorsports
(Post 5558452)
Ok, I know I'm not the only one who has trouble keeping the pipe
inside the rubber piece between the pipe and header. Zip ties on, everything tightened up and such, but still sometimes the pipe will come out ...... dangit !!!! Barring that... flare the end of the pipe and the end of the header a bit (you can do it with a flaring tool... but you can also use needle-nose pliers or a screwdriver) Just a little... enough to give the zip ties something that they can't expand over so it won't come off as easily. Not perfect, but it will help some. Pipes can be had cheap... several decent ones are available for the $50-60 range brand new... used can be less. Ask around. |
exactly why racers use 'one piece' pipes...
back the tmaxx days i used to use hose clamps ;) |
I figured there had to be some that attached like the header does to the motor.
Just have not even started to know what brands, types, or other factors to use in my search. I'm not even sure what would be the better choice in pipes for my car I got the S7 II in it running 30% What else factors in when choosing a pipe? I prefer low to mid range power since there really isnt a lot of time for full speed on the track. |
If low-mid end power is what you're looking for then try a Dynamite Hard Coated 053 pipe set for about $50.
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DTM,
I only run the two-piece header/pipe combo with silicone coupler. I like the ability to make pipe length adjustments at the race. Couple things you can do to keep everything together. 1. clean out the oil from inside the coupler before attaching the pipe & header. 2. use a course 120 grit paper or metal file and rough up the O.D. of the header & Pipe 3. use a pipe cutter and carefully score the O.D. 4. use a cable puller to get the zip-ties tight. Finger tight will never hold. Like I said, I use two-piece for my trucks & boats. Having an extra +/-1/4" of adjustabiliy in the exhaust length can help you find the engine's sweet spot at the track. |
Quickest way to keep'em together is like Dom said.Stick a philips screwdriver in the hole you want bigger roughly about 3/4" then just roll the screwdriver around 10-15 time mith light to med pressure.What you want to have happen is the lip the screwdriver is touching will gradually bend out smoothly so it looks like the end of a trumpet or saxamaphone or clarenet.If the end turns out looking like a skin flute you did something really wrong. Also use all of chucks advise.I had never heard of the pipe cutter method but sounds like another way to achive what I used to do with a deburring knife.
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Just buy a 1 piece spring coupled pipe and be done with it. Dynamite hard coat 053 would be perfect as already stated. For $50 you can't beat the quality/ preformance of these pipes. Most likely you wiull get a big increase in preformance by going to a racing style pipe. Those cheap silicone coupled pipes usually don't preform well at all.
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Originally Posted by JAMMINKRAZY
(Post 5559789)
Just buy a 1 piece spring coupled pipe and be done with it. Dynamite hard coat 053 would be perfect as already stated. For $50 you can't beat the quality/ preformance of these pipes. Most likely you wiull get a big increase in preformance by going to a racing style pipe. Those cheap silicone coupled pipes usually don't preform well at all.
The racing pipes just seem a tonne better, for pretty much the same price. Also, I think the recommended pipe for the RB s7 is the RB 2046. |
Thanks for all the advise, think for now I'll start shopping for the
Dynamite Hard Coated 053 Then at least I'll have a better point of reference thanks !!! |
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