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Old 03-08-2009, 10:23 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joey Powell View Post
There's a claim to fame! That's a very specialized field he's working in, huh?
Don't joke, ive seen my fair share of runaways in my years, all of which were a result of a poor or non existent throttle return spring. I believe the issue that we must get our heads around is the fact that although its a throttle return "spring" the rubberband is superior over any type of spring. Before installation, one must messure the strength of the rubberband and install it in a way that it doesnt bind ones carb and doesnt place un-needed strain on the servo.
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Old 03-08-2009, 10:33 PM   #17
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I use these GMK silicone return bands. They work great.
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Old 03-08-2009, 10:58 PM   #18
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I had been using rubber bands and doubling sometimes tripling them up to make it the correct circumference but then i realized they were becoming so fat that it was risking popping off the linkage from the end of the carb, so i sought a solution i came across these:

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...oducts_id/7029

there are a couple bad reviews of them but so far for me they've been great, just figure out which of the many assorted sizes you need that it comes with, and profit.

although i will admit, the special spring that guy posted above looks dialed...probably a much much better solution, i think i'll order a few of those!!
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Old 03-08-2009, 11:10 PM   #19
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trust me , these are the goods http://www.maxdelivery.com/nkz/exec/...ctId=260063086
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Old 03-09-2009, 08:02 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by littlelane View Post

I have had one like that (from Sportwerks I think) come off. I won't use that type again. Rubber bands, at least 2 in case one breaks. 'nuff said.

As for the rubber band being too strong for the servo... buy better servos and that won't be an issue.
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Old 03-23-2009, 07:31 AM   #21
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I just use the rubber bands that are used for teeth bracers.
About 3 of them on a carb is good and have no problems with them breaking down.
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Old 03-23-2009, 09:23 AM   #22
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the teeth braces or hair rubber bands when I did nitro worked well. I also liked the fact that you could use various bands as needed to get the right tension. I usually went with enough bands to get the tension I liked, then added 1 for good measure. this worked quite well.
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Old 03-23-2009, 11:47 AM   #23
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These are the carb O's like above, but got them at wal-mart cheaper.
I took out the set screw and put in a button head screw and used 2 bands,
snaps the carb shut and don't bind.
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Old 03-23-2009, 11:57 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OfnaJoe View Post
These are the carb O's like above, but got them at wal-mart cheaper.
I took out the set screw and put in a button head screw and used 2 bands,
snaps the carb shut and don't bind.
Hey that is a pretty good idea for several reasons:

1) That little set screw is prone to stripping anyway.

2) Rubber bands on the ball linkage side can interfere with the fit of the ball linkage

3) Easier to tell if there is a problem if the rubber band isn't on the ball linkage.

4) You can add or remove rubber bands (i.e. change old ones or alter amount of tension) without messing with the ball linkage.
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Old 03-23-2009, 12:20 PM   #25
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Here is a sh*t load of rubber bands for ya! Size 10 is what you want.

http://www.mcmaster.com/#12205t51/=14pdh7
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Old 03-23-2009, 12:29 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OfnaJoe View Post
These are the carb O's like above, but got them at wal-mart cheaper.
I took out the set screw and put in a button head screw and used 2 bands,
snaps the carb shut and don't bind.
I tried that method last year with a spring and it worked awesome. No binding. I am going to try the bands this year and hadn't switched out the screw yet on a new engine and tried a band and it bound up the slide right away. Plus I didn't like the band rubbing on the rubber boot so much. Each engine is just a little bit different too I guess. At least pics make it look like they have small differences.

Are you guys setting the band tension enough so that if the battery pack becomes severed that the bands will overcome the dead servo and pull both the carb and servo back?

I had that happen to me last season and the spring I was using all season had not been put back on that time stretched tight enough and I had a 1/4 throttle run away into the weeds. Landed a jump, battery leads pinched and broke, and went right off the next berm into the weeds about 10mph. You have to set the bands stonger that just to return the carb like if the link would pop off the carb with no radio problems. I am using a fail safe too but only a strong return band will save a failed battery pack. You have at least 3 ways for a runaway to occur.
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Old 03-23-2009, 01:34 PM   #27
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The tension of a dead servo is very difficult to overcome with a spring/band. If you put that much return tension on, the servo will be fighting the spring/band too hard and it will overstress the servo. The return spring is there just to prevent a runaway if the throttle linkage should become disconnected or breaks.

Good thing you get a lot of those latex #10 rubber bands - you'll be changing them all the time...

I replace the ball end setscrew with a 3mm x 4mm/6mm buttonhead as shown in the pics, and it is the only way to go when running a band as a return device, especially on the Losi cars/trucks.
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Old 03-23-2009, 01:43 PM   #28
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atomic rc has some great throttle return springs.
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Old 03-23-2009, 01:48 PM   #29
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Inner tubing from a bicycle, cut bands out of that. You'll get hundreds of throttle return bands for a couple of bucks..
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Old 03-23-2009, 02:20 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sparx View Post
Inner tubing from a bicycle, cut bands out of that. You'll get hundreds of throttle return bands for a couple of bucks..

Or you could just Buy a couple 100 for a couple bucks.
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