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Old 03-07-2009, 09:45 AM   #1
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Default Schumacher Menace 21

Hi guys new to this forum and RC cars in general.

My partner kindly purchased me the above car and i'm slightly baffled by it.
Basically i've not even managed to get it started yet.

I've charged the glow charger and that seems to work ok

I've ran the engine (Using a drill) with the exhaust blocked till fuel entered the carburettor.

I've placed the charged glow starter onto the purple glow plug,and ran the drill however the engine never shows any sign of starting up once the drill is swtiched off nothing happens

I've placed batteries into both the transmitter and receiver the transmitter switches on is there any way to check that the receiver is working.

It appears the the glow plug starter is working as ive removed the plug and it does seem to heat up.

Can anyone help? I apologize that these questions are probably domb as anything

Tony
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Old 03-08-2009, 09:08 AM   #2
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Default Help

Ok sorted out some of the problems,

Transmitter & Receiver now ok!!
Glow plug and glow plug charger all work

I've opened the carburettor and primed the engine. Yet once the drill is removed it is evident that the engine has failed to start.

Can anyone give any advise as to what i need to do??

Thanking you in advance

Tony
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Old 03-08-2009, 09:22 AM   #3
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Hi Tony,

You're on the right track. Now you need to adjust your carburetor. Your engine should have 3 (or possibly 4) carburetor "needles" that are adjusted with a flat-head screwdriver (they're basically screws).

Idle needle
Low Speed Needle (or LSN)
High Speed Needle (or HSN)
Some engines have another needle, a sort of "Mid Speed Needle".

All of those needles need to be set to a known starting point before your engine will turn over. If you can dig up some info or a operation manual link, I can help you get to that point. I already looked at Schumacher's site for your engine. What a travesty of tech info... half-working JPG images for manuals.

Mark
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Old 03-08-2009, 10:52 AM   #4
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Default Thanks

Unfortunately the paper manual is no clearer than the jpg ones oyu can see.

Pg 22 seems to refer to the construction of the carburettor but doesnt seem to refer to the position the screws should be in. The car looks the part but it's not exactly easy to use.

Thats assuming the three screws i can see on the carb are the three needles you are referring too.

I'll see if i can find a more clear manual for you thnkas for helping out so far dude.

Tony
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Old 03-08-2009, 11:22 AM   #5
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Actually, look up the engine info as a separate entity. I think I saw mention of it being a Thunder Tiger Pro .21 something-or-other. See if you can find a manual about this engine itself.

The info we're looking for will say something to the effect of:

LSN: 2.5 turns out from closed
HSN: 4 turns out from closed

It may not mention a specific idle needle point, but that's okay. We're just looking to get the engine to fire up for now, regardless of idle. You can use your radio to idle for now and adjust it afterward.
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Old 03-08-2009, 11:45 AM   #6
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Default Manual

This looks like the manual for the pull corded version.

It doesnt seem to differentiate between the three needles stated before (It probably does but i don't quite know what im looking for as the song goes)

From what the manual seems to state i turn component B on page 3 till closed and then turn 1/2 way back or is that 2.5 times back?

I cant post the hyperlink due to not having made enough posts yet (According to systems admin)

but ruberkon.gb and tiger.com both have versions online

tony
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Old 03-08-2009, 12:13 PM   #7
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http://www.ruberkon.gr/products/pdf/PRO21ja0139V5.pdf

B: HSN (High Speed Needle)
Turn it CW until you feel resistance, then turn it CCW 2 or 2.5 turns.

D (far left side, end of rubber "boot"): LSN (Low Speed Needle). Thunder Tiger calls it "Mixture Metering Screw"
They don't give a factory position for this needle.

G (far right side, under "E"): Idle needle.

See if it will start up once you adjust the HSN.

Just an FYI. When you research this stuff, you'll see mention of "rich" (aka "fat"), "lean", and "hours", as well as the other terms.

You won't likely be able to tune your engine perfectly at first, so you're going to be lean or rich. Too lean will wear your engine quickly. Rich is the safest bet here. "When in doubt, turn it out." is an easy way to remember this. Meaning, if you're unsure about the HSN or LSN settings, turn them CCW (rich) before trying the other direction.

"hour" refers to 1/12 of a turn. If someone advises you to fatten your HSN by 1 hour, they mean turn it CCW by 1/12 of a rotation.
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Old 03-08-2009, 04:02 PM   #8
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Thanks matey,

It's a little late to look tonight it's 22.30 here in the messy old UK.

However will check this out after work tomorrow, but thanks for your help so far with a bit of luck my menace will be racing around the field at the back of house tomorrow evening.

Duce!!!
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Old 04-27-2009, 06:37 PM   #9
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Default good top end low end crappy

Hey i have read alot of these forums and this one seems to be getting me in the right dirrection, but i need some help to get me completely rollin with no problems. i have a menace with the tt21 motor and my top end is good and when she rolls bout 20yrds the tires really rip, but at the start off the line its really doggy and moves but not snappy at all. any help would be great on this. Thanks for the above info on the topic, it has been very helpful
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