os vspec
 

ok, i have an os vspec, long story short

conrod blew after 3/4th of a gallon,os replaced the conrod but not the piston and sleeve that was damaged, SOOOOO

i was able to pick up the speed piston and sleeve for cost and im picking that up friday.

but i wanna know whats the BEST break in procedure. i did the heat cycle, but i think i did it wrong

i do plan on gettin a speed conrod AFTER breakn so this doesnt happen again

for breakin, get a hudy bench, we use two at a time, well worth the money.

you will need to stick with the stock rod, the lubrication points are different between the speed and the stock vspec, you can use the speed piston and sleeve, but need to stick with the stock rod

+1, the Speed rod and crank have lubrication points designed together. If you want to use a Speed rod in the VSpec, then use the JX21 or Speed crank also. Piston & sleeve can interchange between all there engines though.

ive got 8 gallons on my 21 vzb love it

Sorry, but this is not the case at all. Speed rod's work just fine with the stock v-spec crank. All the speed rod does is add a second lubrication hole, thus it will get even more lubrication. You can NOT use a speed or JX crank with the stock v-spec rod. But the other way around works just fine.

yes

yea i knew that,

but can anyone answer my original question

Here you go, right from OS website:

http://www.os-engines.co.jp/english/...r/carindex.htm

Has everything you need to know about the vspec engine.

yes here is what me and my friends do to break in the os motors put it in car just as normal like going to take it out and drive it. then use the factory settings to start it up if wont idle lean bottom 1hr at a time to get it to idle sometimes can be a pain but once you get it to idle let it run at idle about 3 tanks then shut it down for a rest. make sure that when it is idling it stays above 180deg. or else you wont be doing the motor any good needs to be at temp if dont get it to temp it will cause the piston to overwear on the sleeve when sleeve gets to temp it expands to make it almost same dia. at top as bottom. anyway i run my vspecs for 10 tanks all on the bench at 180 first 5 and 205 second five after first five tanks i lean the bottom to a tuned idle setting and adjust temp with top needle. all people will tell you different things but this is what i was tought to do and my vspecs have been getting 10 gal. plus on them just have to change bearings also the speed rod will work just fine on reg. vspec it is what i run when my stock vspec goes out i replace with speed rod piston and sleeve put double seal ceramic front bearing in and good for another 10 gallons after2 pistons and sleeves the crank pin is usually shot so have to junk motor but 20 gallons out of 400 dollars total in to the motor and second pisston and sleeve aint bad also if your tuning your motor right should never have to get hte temp above 215 to get the performance run big cooling head and run mine at 190 flying

I always install the engine fire it up and throw the car down and tune it to get to 200F as quickly as possible. I'll run the rest of the tank out driving back and forth down the street and back 100-150 feet or so at a time using only short bursts of throttle. Before the tank runs empty I shut the engine off and make sure the piston is not at TDC and let it cool. Once its cooled for a few minutes I run another tank like the first. Then I take them to the track and give them a conservative race tune and run them. Usually by the mains I am ready to go full race tune.

Disclaimer: This is how I do it and even though it works for me it may not be the best way. I just dont feel like wasting my time or fuel idling tanks or using a break-in bench. I am known for having limited patience and running up and down the street bores the crap out of me so I am always in a hurry to get things on the track and up to full speed. I have broken in many engines this way and typically get more life from them than I want as something new and better is always coming.:D

losi_racer, try this link it might help, and don't push your engine too much after breaking it in, it take some time to get its racing performance , Take it easy on your throttle finger, power and performance of the mill will pop out naturally as soon as it gets some pinch loosen up.

http://rcspecial.com/news/?p=16205#more-16205

thanks guys, i think i have a good idea now

I totally agree with PTP's breakin method, only difference being I run it at variable throttle for 3/4 tanks. Many engine builders and tuners have told me that the purpose of breakin is to take the engine through numerous heat cycles, and since you don't race at idle why run it like that for soo long? Use short bursts and vary the speed throughout the process, and after a couple tanks give it full throttle a couple of times. You don't have to baby it to break it in properly, just don't abuse it! My 2 cents worth...