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Old 02-27-2009, 06:17 PM   #16
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hey 22 racer get a hold of me that motor that os rocket pintched is so fing tight the box wont even turn it over with no plug
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Old 02-27-2009, 08:55 PM   #17
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Please note that RayAracing pays very close attention first to the surface finish conditions of the sleeve liner along with piston surface finish, and first following initial inspection, make necessary improvements of surface finish. If the surface finish condition remains poor the seal will remain poor. After I am convinced the surfaces are clean and in good condition It is time for me to be very meticulous with the sleeves alloy reconstruction (resizing) resulting on an average 0.0003" ( 3 tenths of one-thousandth inch) thru 0.0005" ( 5 tenths. I do get aggressive with piston & sleeve sets that may have experienced dirt contamination and get up there in the the naborhood of 8 tents or better, but those are usually sets I find liner scratching and end up doing a very light honing on.
Ray, .0003"-.0005" reconstruction? Is that just a reactivation of the Ni with, a class-2E replate of the Ni & Cr? That would definately remove any surface blemishes and reduce the I.D. but expensive unless you are a plater by trade
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Old 02-28-2009, 07:31 AM   #18
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Chuck,
There is no mention of plating above. I am a Tool&Die maker by trade. I am well versed with plating, anodising, heat treating, etcetera. I apply what is effeciant and nessissary to RayAracing-reconditioning-resizing process.

Smash8ight,
Your werks b3 will be back to you a few buisness days after arriving here in NY state. I was backloged 5 days for 3 weeks but caught up last sat. Turnaround time is the norm 1-2 buisness days this week. And for the first time in many monts I have a little time to rub elbows with my racing friends here.

Schmelme,
I appreciate the kind words. Allthough I designed my tooling spacificly for nitro engine resizing, its not idiot proof. I have bad days like everyone else and If I am not clear in the head and well focused, I do not resize anything/I take the day off.

Guys, If you got a question you can call me on my cell (716) 783-5198 or shoot me a email at RayAracing@aol.com

Will try to keep an eye on the RC Tech treads for the next few weeks anyway.

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Old 02-28-2009, 07:36 AM   #19
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thanks for the reply ray.
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Old 02-28-2009, 08:09 AM   #20
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engine resizing if done right, is efficient and works very well, about 2 yrs ago i bought the tooling off of ray to do my own engines, when i was running cheap engines i didnt care, but when i went up to 400 plus motors and piston and sleeves are 150 plus . it just made cents to do this. one of my neighbors still runs a lost lst2 with stock mach 427 engines, i cant tell you how many time we have pinched his engines. as ray said it very small increments that is required, a very tight pinch just puts more stress on the rod, i feel that it is a good idea to replace the rod on any engine that has several gallons on or that was extremely tight upon break in. ray is first class and his system if followed is flawless. ray i would like to thank you, your tooling have saved me thousands of dollars over the last few years. we dont really advertise for pinching services, there are a few racers out of las vegas and phoenix that we help. the jobs that we get are world of mouth. after i purchased the equipment for ray he has always been there for any question that i may have had. to ray thank you. to all others try rays services you will be impressed.
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Old 02-28-2009, 08:25 AM   #21
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Ray, .0003"-.0005" reconstruction? Is that just a reactivation of the Ni with, a class-2E replate of the Ni & Cr? That would definately remove any surface blemishes and reduce the I.D. but expensive unless you are a plater by trade
what about electroplating?
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Old 02-28-2009, 08:43 AM   #22
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I was at the PNB 09' and found myself in a bind. I was practicing and had a rear drive shaft come loose and by the time I got back around to pit row my engine temp hit 360. I did not have a backup engine. I tore down the engine and you could push the piston through the top of the sleeve. This was a fresh PTM NR p5xst and I was real pissed with myself. With 2 days of racing ahead I started looking for new/used motors to get through the weekend. I believe it was the M2C trailer I found a great guy that said let me help you. He charged me 10 dollars for the pinch. Well I managed to race the whole event with no motor issues only driver issues I have always been the type to re-build or buy a fresh mill, I never really considered pinching. This process saved me and I am thankful. I spent alot of money attending this race and was almost shut down before qualifying even began. I will say the P5 will be rebuilt before race season even though it still has pinch. This would be a good thing to do after an engine looses compression. Get a new mill and pinch the old one for practice/backup.
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Old 03-01-2009, 05:49 AM   #23
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Phantom Racing,
I have tooled quite a few guys around the world, over the past 7 pluss years, like yourself that credit rc racing a more affordable hobby. I appreciate the kind words. I do enjoy both reconditioning-resizing for the racers and tooling them if they wish to become crafty themselves.

I finally upgraded my computer capabilities to be connected thru time warner, and now also wireless thru Verision broadband. Hope to be even more focused on the racing action this year.

RayA
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Old 03-02-2009, 07:18 AM   #24
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Phantom Racing,
I have tooled quite a few guys around the world, over the past 7 pluss years, like yourself that credit rc racing a more affordable hobby. I appreciate the kind words. I do enjoy both reconditioning-resizing for the racers and tooling them if they wish to become crafty themselves.

I finally upgraded my computer capabilities to be connected thru time warner, and now also wireless thru Verision broadband. Hope to be even more focused on the racing action this year.

RayA

ray, you still have your crt.5? if you do you going to come out to glenwood at all? i think there is only 3 more nitro races
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Old 03-02-2009, 08:11 AM   #25
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Default dave, i do. will b out next week if u see a turnout in the class

Dave, I do.and would love to run the .5 crt class if you think enough the regular guys will race.unfortunitly last few times droping in at the track not even a faint smell of nitro.I'm like delta. Raya.
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Old 03-02-2009, 11:02 AM   #26
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what about electroplating?
Joe,

same diff. Chrome is always applied through electroplating. Nickle is most often applied by electorplating, but not exclusively like chrome.

There are two types of chrome plate - decorative and engineering (heavy). Model engine sleeves should receive the heavy chrome plate but I've see a fair share of engines with only a decorative plate. What does that mean? Heavy plate is more durable, has a greater lubricity & better oil retention. Sleeves with the heavy plate will give you more hours with less wear.

Hopefully this photo of a Werks sleeve attaches.. Above the port you can see where the chrome and nickle have worn away exposing the brass. Don't take this example to reflect all Werks engines. This just happens to be one I stumbled across.

Appologies to all, I don't mean to misdirect the thread.
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piston/sleeve resizing?-p7080063.jpg  
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Old 03-02-2009, 11:32 AM   #27
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I am having 22Races(Rex) do a couple engines for me. I had Rick at RB Mods do a couple and they are tight, my box won't turn them over, is this normal?
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Old 03-02-2009, 11:33 AM   #28
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I always leave a note with the engine saying to make it a "light" pinch, that way it doesn't end up too tight.
Have had good luck with OS Rocket so far.
Turned my Sirio engine into a 13min run-time beast!

Chris
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Old 03-02-2009, 11:51 AM   #29
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I am having 22Races(Rex) do a couple engines for me. I had Rick at RB Mods do a couple and they are tight, my box won't turn them over, is this normal?
To tight IMO. I had a popular guy do that to an engine of mine once. So tight I had to heat it up and then roll it over with an 18 volt drill to try and pre-break it in. That engine ended up in the scrap aluminum pile. I didn't know then, but I could've sent it to Rayaracing and had him fix it for me. I believe Rex might be able to fix them also.

But like said above, always send a note asking for a light or medium pinch, one that will not ruin your starterbox bumping it over. Plus then you're not wasting a bunch of time, piston/sleeve, or rod by breaking the thing completely in all over again. Couple of easy tanks and then go race.

From what I see of people who say they've had bad experiances with getting an engine pinched, generally it's somebody trying to freshen up an engine that has sucked dirt. If it's sucked dirt just a pinch won't do it. You pretty much need new bearings also. At the minimum the bearings need to be pulled out and the whole case washed/cleaned thouroughly before reassembling and running.
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Old 03-02-2009, 12:25 PM   #30
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so can i hook my motor up to a drill to get it to spin over and maybe loosin up should i just add some aro to make sure there is lube. and also what does ray charge to do his work.
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