Locktite Removal?
#1
Locktite Removal?
I have a part that is being a real PITA. Its the rear upright from my Hyper 7. I removed the set screw so i could pull the pin, but no luck. There is a huge build up of locktite and looks like rust around the pin. I don't mind messing up the hub, but i want to save the universal.
Will boiling loosen this up? Its cool if i can save the upright, but not necessary. The bearings are screwed regardless.
Thanks!
Will boiling loosen this up? Its cool if i can save the upright, but not necessary. The bearings are screwed regardless.
Thanks!
#2
Tech Adept
I would first try to use a metal punch and knock out the pin. If that doesn't work then try using heat to soften or melt the locktite and hit it out with the metal punch. Hope that works out for you.
#3
Tech Regular
Boiling water should break the bond. Make sure you use good quality allen drivers to avoid stripping the grubscrew
#4
If its rust around the pin, try penetrating oil. Let it soak in for a little while, then push it out with a punch. I don't think boiling or heating will break the rust bond.
#5
Thanks guys! I'll try all of the above... It would just be sooooo much easier if I had a freakin bench vice!
The grub screw is out. I just got tired of the wheel nuts backing off and began dabbing locktite on them.
FWIW, anyone who reads this post... I don't think you could ever find a more solid basher car than a Hyper 7... This car has been through hell and back, seen almost 10 gallons of mostly 30% fuel and the only parts I have had to replace were the chassis (I ramped the car over my extended cab S10 lengthwise, landed on pavement...) one front shock that went AWOL (when it landed on the pavement) and a rear gearbox from a couple years of abuse. I'm just now having to change the first wheel bearings, never maintained them, ran it through water, jacked them up. Water incident ruined my RZ-V01B, screw it, it was time... she paid her dues... And I've went through 2 flywheels, probably 10 sets of clutch bearings, one pair of shock towers (tried to hang the car from a tree). Has the original Ofna throttle servo (PCR RTR kit) original Hitec HS 645 MG servo that I upgraded when I bought the kit...
Car has been upgraded to quad brakes, extended chassis, with the longer universals, and added rear universals. And if they don't sell soon, I'll fit up a set of big bores...
Bang for the buck... Can't beat a Hyper 7! And... 3 models later, you can still find parts on FLEABAY!
The grub screw is out. I just got tired of the wheel nuts backing off and began dabbing locktite on them.
FWIW, anyone who reads this post... I don't think you could ever find a more solid basher car than a Hyper 7... This car has been through hell and back, seen almost 10 gallons of mostly 30% fuel and the only parts I have had to replace were the chassis (I ramped the car over my extended cab S10 lengthwise, landed on pavement...) one front shock that went AWOL (when it landed on the pavement) and a rear gearbox from a couple years of abuse. I'm just now having to change the first wheel bearings, never maintained them, ran it through water, jacked them up. Water incident ruined my RZ-V01B, screw it, it was time... she paid her dues... And I've went through 2 flywheels, probably 10 sets of clutch bearings, one pair of shock towers (tried to hang the car from a tree). Has the original Ofna throttle servo (PCR RTR kit) original Hitec HS 645 MG servo that I upgraded when I bought the kit...
Car has been upgraded to quad brakes, extended chassis, with the longer universals, and added rear universals. And if they don't sell soon, I'll fit up a set of big bores...
Bang for the buck... Can't beat a Hyper 7! And... 3 models later, you can still find parts on FLEABAY!
#10
Tech Adept