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Old 03-19-2009, 07:59 PM   #31
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Hey JAMMINKRAZY, I'm the one who did the work to yfzrider's starter box. You're right, you could just sand down the stock wheel and it did crossed my mind. But if the wheel ever needed to be replaced you would have to sand the new wheel down again. This way you just bolt a new starter wheel on and it's good to go.

I used the stock motor mounts but I had to raise the motor 3/4" off the bottom of the box and just used longer screws to mount it. I also went with a #6 screw instead of the stock 3mm for more strength since the screws were so long now. For the wheel I had to make a new hub. I just happened to find something laying around my work that ended up being perfect for the job with little modifying to make it right. You can't tell from the pics but the hub actually fits inside the center hole of the rubber starter wheel. The stock starter wheel for the big motor does not use a drive pin, it uses a press fit. There is a hole in the drive shaft on the motor for a drive pin so I used that instead of the stupid press fit design.
Nice. sounds like a very good design. I was thinking about using the stock wheel just for ease of the mod(no custom made hub needed). I think the dynamite(or other) wheel could be filed down very easily by just running the motor with a file pressed to the rubber wheel. Or if you have the resources you could put it on a lathe and get it done the right way. I may have to try this at some point. Either that or set it up with the ofna 775 motors. Thanks for the info.
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Old 03-19-2009, 08:09 PM   #32
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box in the OP looks dialed dude

Wish I had the extra scratch to lipo my truggy boxes!
Thanks.. I blew a motor last night trying to start my new GO 5-port, I ordered two new Traxxas 23t motors as replacements, they should provide some good starting power over the stock Losi motors.
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Old 03-19-2009, 09:04 PM   #33
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Thanks.. I blew a motor last night trying to start my new GO 5-port, I ordered two new Traxxas 23t motors as replacements, they should provide some good starting power over the stock Losi motors.
A local guy here at my track said to do the same thing. I want to solder all the connections and use 12 AWG wire for it. Im still running a gel cell, but I usually have it hooked up to a charger for consistant preformance. Tell us how the traxxas motors preform compared to the stockers.
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Old 03-19-2009, 09:57 PM   #34
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What i did to mine was pulled the bulk head and motors from the blue ofna truggy box and pit it into the losi box.I used the losi wheel and had to get another ofna pulley tensioner and used the losi belt.All fits in the box.Few extra holes in the new bulk head to realign the starter wheel and put the pulley in to take the slack out of the belt.Hook it up to my 14.8 lipo and it now starts anything lol.Also all deans noodle wire and solder.
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Old 03-19-2009, 10:02 PM   #35
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What i did to mine was pulled the bulk head and motors from the blue ofna truggy box and pit it into the losi box.I used the losi wheel and had to get another ofna pulley tensioner and used the losi belt.All fits in the box.Few extra holes in the new bulk head to realign the starter wheel and put the pulley in to take the slack out of the belt.Hook it up to my 14.8 lipo and it now starts anything lol.Also all deans noodle wire and solder.
Pics would be greatly appreciated.
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Old 03-20-2009, 12:15 AM   #36
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Here you go
***LOSI STARTER BOX OVERHAUL***-dscn1249.jpg
***LOSI STARTER BOX OVERHAUL***-dscn1250.jpg
Using the ofna bulk head and moving the engines in all the way.Then place the second pulley to get rid if the slack.This way the engines don't push the outside of the box.Placement of the second pulley is tight but just fits
beside the wheel.Measure twice drill once.If you miss the next hole to correct will be half of the mistake hole.Things get tougher then.
This box is still by far the best if you run losi buggy and truggy.One box starts two rc=priceless
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Old 03-20-2009, 08:45 AM   #37
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Here you go
Attachment 431178
Attachment 431179
Using the ofna bulk head and moving the engines in all the way.Then place the second pulley to get rid if the slack.This way the engines don't push the outside of the box.Placement of the second pulley is tight but just fits
beside the wheel.Measure twice drill once.If you miss the next hole to correct will be half of the mistake hole.Things get tougher then.
This box is still by far the best if you run losi buggy and truggy.One box starts two rc=priceless
Thank you very much. Now could this be done the same way, but with a shorter belt, removing the need for a second tensioner? Seems to me that there must be a shorter belt out there that would work. Very nice setup there. that is what I am going to try soon here.
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Old 03-20-2009, 08:57 AM   #38
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Very nice, if I am still racing nitro when the Traxxas motors die I will consider going with Ofna internals.
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Old 03-20-2009, 09:29 AM   #39
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I'm sure you can.I had the ofna,losi and an xray belt and maybe a traxxas one i think.That pulley is pretty cheap and saved me alot of money in trying belts.This way once it streched i still could tension it.I used the gears that come with the offna motors(metal) also.Didn't change them.
Good luck and if i can be of any help let me know.
I did run the traxxas 12&23 turn in my box before the change.I found the upgraded losi motors best with the lipo if your not going to overhaul.
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Old 03-20-2009, 01:06 PM   #40
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I did run the traxxas 12&23 turn in my box before the change.I found the upgraded losi motors best with the lipo if your not going to overhaul.


stock upgraded motor's were the best ? which motor's are you referring to ?
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Old 03-20-2009, 01:17 PM   #41
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Too late for me, I already ordered the Traxxas motors. I'm sure I'll get some good life out of them.
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Old 03-20-2009, 01:39 PM   #42
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ive always had the best luck with the traxxas motors.i just tried the 55t crawler motor and they felt slow.
i had trouble re-using the pulley/pinion from my losi box,so i ordered ofna part no ofn92568 from nitrohouse.less than three bucks for some new ones.
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Old 03-23-2009, 07:41 AM   #43
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Thumbs up Great Info!

Great info.. It has really helped me with a project that I was working on.
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Old 03-23-2009, 08:04 AM   #44
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Great info.. It has really helped me with a project that I was working on.
Good to hear! Stay tuned for my write up on installing a 14 or 18V relay instead of passing high current through the switches. This setup will only pass high current through the relay and motors, the switches will be in series to activate the motors only.
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Old 03-23-2009, 08:14 AM   #45
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Originally Posted by rearviewmirror View Post
Good to hear! Stay tuned for my write up on installing a 14 or 18V relay instead of passing high current through the switches. This setup will only pass high current through the relay and motors, the switches will be in series to activate the motors only.


the only time this becomes an issue is if your constantly ramming on the box to start a car....overheating the motor's, wires, and little brass tabs on the plunger......but if your smart and dont do that.....you shouldn't need to worry about a bypass relay....but it is a cool idea never the less.....i could just care less to have more wires in the box then there already is....I look forward to seeing the write up tho rearviewmirror.
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