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Old 01-29-2009, 11:21 AM   #1
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Talking Suspension Question!?

Hey Guys,

Working on my Losi 8-T and i realized something. I was going to rebuild my suspensions, fresh fluids, seals and what not. Well, i took the caps off and the fluid level is about an 1/8th inch from the brim top of the shock body. I read the manual and it says fill to top of body. So before i drained ne fluid or ne thing, i added the amount to bring it to the top and put the top back on. Noticed after doing this the shock had bottoming resistence.

Now im a motocrosser, and we really loved that nice plush feel right at the end of the stroke. I noticed it in my hand when i would work the shock tha it had some bottoming resistence. Sooo......my question is, how full do you guys fill the bodies?? All the way or do you leave a small space before you put the cap on. I would thing that the bottoming resistence is a good thing??

Let the opinions fly!!!!
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Old 01-29-2009, 11:30 AM   #2
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Originally Posted by motoclay View Post
Hey Guys,

Working on my Losi 8-T and i realized something. I was going to rebuild my suspensions, fresh fluids, seals and what not. Well, i took the caps off and the fluid level is about an 1/8th inch from the brim top of the shock body. I read the manual and it says fill to top of body. So before i drained ne fluid or ne thing, i added the amount to bring it to the top and put the top back on. Noticed after doing this the shock had bottoming resistence.

Now im a motocrosser, and we really loved that nice plush feel right at the end of the stroke. I noticed it in my hand when i would work the shock tha it had some bottoming resistence. Sooo......my question is, how full do you guys fill the bodies?? All the way or do you leave a small space before you put the cap on. I would thing that the bottoming resistence is a good thing??

Let the opinions fly!!!!
It is mostly preference. when you fill the shock as full as you can get it its normal for it feel that way at the end of the stoke.
more than likely the chassis will hit the ground before the shock bottoms out.

most the pro's now run the full(100%) rebound setup which will give you more traction, it will also make the car more responsive to your input.

i fill mine all the way up then bleed the oil off until i get the rebound i want, for me its just about 50%

its to tough for me to juge before you put the shock tegether, thats why i fill it up then bleed it off through the shock cap, you will be suprized what a drop or two will do, also your shocks will use slightly different amount of oil to get the same rebound. at least it seems to be case for me.
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Last edited by BAUSTIN; 01-29-2009 at 12:02 PM.
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Old 01-29-2009, 12:22 PM   #3
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i guess you could also slow down or speed up rebound with piston changes. I totally understand how the shock works, very simple concept. I just wasn't sure if it would blow out seals and things if it was that full. I like the idea of some bottoming resistence. Should jump a little further as well.

Im going to give this a go and see how i like it. It makes sense to me in the forms of motocross racing. Beings we dont have clickers. I would think that soft as you can go to keep traction but stiff enough not to bottom all over the track. This might be the ticket? Im playing, trying stuff, love the set up challenge. 80% driver 20% setup. thanks for the reply btw
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Old 01-29-2009, 12:31 PM   #4
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no problem, there is slightly more risk of blowing out a bladder.....
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Old 01-29-2009, 12:45 PM   #5
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Ive never blown a blatter from running 100% rebound....ive done it for a couple years and the only time i need to replace the blatter is if i screw the cap on a little too tight...the cap and outer edge of the body can/will Slide the cap in 2.
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Old 01-29-2009, 12:46 PM   #6
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how do you bleed it out of the cap. i know there is a hole but can you control how much is bled
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Old 01-29-2009, 12:51 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by losi_racer View Post
how do you bleed it out of the cap. i know there is a hole but can you control how much is bled

you fill it to the rim....slowly put the blatter in and leave a small corner up so the excess can blead out...then cap the blatter insuring there is NO air in there and Cap it...whamo done....no fussing with bleeding air or oil.....and Fwiw Drake and Truhe both run 100% rebound 95% of the time.
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Old 01-29-2009, 01:00 PM   #8
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Here is a method from pitpop posted on Infernosonly that made the bleeding easier for me


[URL="http://www.infernosonly.com/Paul_King_s_Kyosho_Inferno_Big_Bore_Shock_Build_s/505.htm"]
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Old 01-29-2009, 01:09 PM   #9
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what are you calling 100% rebound?? What does that have to do with 100% full shock body?? I dont understand 100% rebound, it alwasy rebounds 100% unless you got your droop screws stopping it short of a full stroke?
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Old 01-29-2009, 01:09 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DirtRacer (Irl) View Post
Here is a method from pitpop posted on Infernosonly that made the bleeding easier for me


[URL="http://www.infernosonly.com/Paul_King_s_Kyosho_Inferno_Big_Bore_Shock_Build_s/505.htm"]
this is how i have done it and it has worked fine for me, i just never paid attn. to the angle i hold the shock at, seems to me i hold it near verticle.
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Old 01-29-2009, 01:12 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by motoclay View Post
what are you calling 100% rebound?? What does that have to do with 100% full shock body?? I dont understand 100% rebound, it alwasy rebounds 100% unless you got your droop screws stopping it short of a full stroke?

i mean with the shock off the car, the shock shaft will rebound 100% to the full length(without the shock spring), you are right when the shock is on the car droop screws will limit the overall travel but the added pressure from the full rebound will still be there.
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Old 01-29-2009, 01:14 PM   #12
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100% rebound before a spring is fitted or 50% or none whichever works for you,
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Old 01-29-2009, 01:20 PM   #13
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100% rebound before a spring is fitted or 50% or none whichever works for you,
OOOOO IC now. Yeah, def. makes since there. Yeah, def. want 100% then. I know it will fly further with less effort as well. Cool so i get it now, imma feel them bad boys up and go with it. thanks guys!
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Old 01-29-2009, 01:26 PM   #14
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OOOOO IC now. Yeah, def. makes since there. Yeah, def. want 100% then. I know it will fly further with less effort as well. Cool so i get it now, imma feel them bad boys up and go with it. thanks guys!
when i build my shocks with full rebound, even if they both (both fronts or rears) have full rebound, one always seems to be slightly different one may rebound a little quicker than the other even though both get to 100%, then i use the same method to try and match them up.

what im trying to say is dont just fill them all the way up and go, you still need to make shure they are close to the same.
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Old 01-29-2009, 01:35 PM   #15
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yeah, i JUST did that, one was a little faster, or stiffer, i took my allen tool, dip it in there, put the cap back on now they are REAL close.
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