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Old 01-26-2009, 02:37 PM   #1
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Default XTM .18 needle settings?

I have an old t-maxx .15 with an XTM .18 engine in it (hand-me-down, it sucks). I was wondering what the factory needle settings were for it, and what i should do to get it running in 20 degree weather. Thnx!!
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Old 01-27-2009, 03:14 PM   #2
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anyone?????
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Old 01-27-2009, 03:20 PM   #3
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Screw the top end all the way down then back out 3 turns, for the low, make it flush with the carb that its sitting in. dont mess with the idle

If you have any old socks with an elastic band, cut the toe end out and pull the sock over the cooling head with the elastic down so it holds it on, it should keep it warmer. If you dont have and socks wrap the cooling head in foil.

Any more questions?
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Old 01-28-2009, 07:05 AM   #4
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thanks man, I'll see how that works out... i have the idle at 1.5 turns out from flush, and that seems about good...
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Old 01-28-2009, 04:06 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by pedeboi364 View Post
thanks man, I'll see how that works out... i have the idle at 1.5 turns out from flush, and that seems about good...

Tell me how it works out
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Old 03-01-2009, 05:06 PM   #6
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Finally got to take it out today and getting going OK. 3 turns out was a perfect starting setting, thnx pinky . I'm having problems however with the (apearently) LSN. It backs itself way the hell out when I'm running. However, I thought this was only a 2-needle engine (that was the description says on the XTM site, maybe they excluded the idle as a needle and meant high/low neeldes??) Any help there other than time for locktite??
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Old 03-01-2009, 08:19 PM   #7
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Finally got to take it out today and getting going OK. 3 turns out was a perfect starting setting, thnx pinky . I'm having problems however with the (apearently) LSN. It backs itself way the hell out when I'm running. However, I thought this was only a 2-needle engine (that was the description says on the XTM site, maybe they excluded the idle as a needle and meant high/low neeldes??) Any help there other than time for locktite??

Well, i wouldnt suggest locktite because then you couldnt adjust it


Do they make a really really weak locktite? because that would prolly keep the screw in but make it still adjustable. If that doesnt work you could re tap it but that would be dangerous for your carb
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Old 03-01-2009, 08:27 PM   #8
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Well, i wouldnt suggest locktite because then you couldnt adjust it


Do they make a really really weak locktite? because that would prolly keep the screw in but make it still adjustable. If that doesnt work you could re tap it but that would be dangerous for your carb
blue locktite. its easy to remove but holds tight.
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Old 03-01-2009, 08:34 PM   #9
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check the o-ring on the needle, it may just need replaced, if it is worn out, the ring will look flat on the outside, that is most likely your problem right there. I don't think the loctite would work with the oily conditions and the heat.
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Old 03-01-2009, 08:41 PM   #10
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http://media.hobbypeople.net/manual/146002.pdf

It appears that you would need part number TE12906. Have your local shop order it for you, if they are hooked up with global hobby distributors, they are the only one's that distribute XTM.
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Old 03-01-2009, 08:55 PM   #11
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thats a good point. didnt even think of the o rings
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Old 03-01-2009, 09:00 PM   #12
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Old 03-02-2009, 04:40 AM   #13
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yup, its the o-ring. thnx for the link BIG RE. any1 know if i could get the right o-ring at a hardware store?? thx
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Old 03-02-2009, 06:41 AM   #14
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yup, its the o-ring. thnx for the link BIG RE. any1 know if i could get the right o-ring at a hardware store?? thx
is the O ring still there? or is it gone completely? cuz if its still there i would take it to a store and see.
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Old 03-02-2009, 11:04 AM   #15
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just took the needle out and there lay the torn remaims of and o-ring. it put it on a different indent on the pins and that seems to work (will fire it soon and see how running goes). concerning the 2 indents on the pin, am i missing 1.5 o-rings??
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