i was wondering.
01-26-2009, 01:30 AM
#1
i was wondering.
how does a break in bench work?
01-26-2009, 01:39 AM
#2
Tech Master
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It's like a park bench, or kinda like a .. damn ran out of "benches" already.. sure there are more, but the funny already left my head, not to mention this thread..
Break-In bench...
in the roughest of explainations: an Engine mount, mounted to your work bench so you can run your engine out of the vehicle.
Usually the mount design is 6-12 inches off the bench for easier access.. fuel lines running into a tank that is out of the way, and the exhaust is expelled through a hose.
All of this allows break in and tunning of the engine in the comfort of your _insert work area_ , again, without the confinnment of being installed in your ride.
Break-In bench...
in the roughest of explainations: an Engine mount, mounted to your work bench so you can run your engine out of the vehicle.
Usually the mount design is 6-12 inches off the bench for easier access.. fuel lines running into a tank that is out of the way, and the exhaust is expelled through a hose.
All of this allows break in and tunning of the engine in the comfort of your _insert work area_ , again, without the confinnment of being installed in your ride.
01-26-2009, 03:04 AM
#3
It's like a park bench, or kinda like a .. damn ran out of "benches" already.. sure there are more, but the funny already left my head, not to mention this thread..
Break-In bench...
in the roughest of explainations: an Engine mount, mounted to your work bench so you can run your engine out of the vehicle.
Usually the mount design is 6-12 inches off the bench for easier access.. fuel lines running into a tank that is out of the way, and the exhaust is expelled through a hose.
All of this allows break in and tunning of the engine in the comfort of your _insert work area_ , again, without the confinnment of being installed in your ride.
Break-In bench...
in the roughest of explainations: an Engine mount, mounted to your work bench so you can run your engine out of the vehicle.
Usually the mount design is 6-12 inches off the bench for easier access.. fuel lines running into a tank that is out of the way, and the exhaust is expelled through a hose.
All of this allows break in and tunning of the engine in the comfort of your _insert work area_ , again, without the confinnment of being installed in your ride.
01-26-2009, 04:51 AM
#4
01-26-2009, 05:07 AM
#5
does anybody use these? i have always heard not to so i was just curious
01-26-2009, 06:53 AM
#7
ive used a bench for the last 2.5 years.....all my motor's Run flawlessly after the bench and i don't have to waste my time doing 1/4 throttle runs and all the regular break in stuff....i also feel you can get a real good idea of what the motor will be like when you can Scream it Right in front of your face...you can see leaks better feel bearing vibration better....all in all its a better way to break in a motor...and with the prop is an actual load you actually get stuff broken in alot faster...where as some one would need 5-10 tanks before its race ready...litearally on the bench it could be race ready in 3-4 tanks...and we've done it before..with JPX's and they also ran like CHAMPS at last years nats....tonns of power/runtime and ran the whole weekend on 1 plug....could'nt ask for much more.
01-26-2009, 02:44 PM
#9
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[QUOTE=Integra;5343231]ive used a bench for the last 2.5 years.....QUOTE]
Integra, what bench are you using, eh?
Integra, what bench are you using, eh?
01-26-2009, 03:39 PM
#10
[QUOTE=jkas10;5345019]
home made jobby...with the RDlogics nose cone...here's a pic
Deznuts05...you use a plane nose cone starter..there like 20-30 if you shop around...i got my Torq master 180 for 10$ on ebay with a radio case.
...we do let the motor cool between runs...if the motor's ridiculously tight...we might run the first 2 tanks back to back....and i guess you could toss on a previously broken in motor.....you wnna test for problems your having ? the prop is a load...but nothing like the rear car with a flywheel and clutch set-up...so only so much can be learned from the bench.
Exhaust side
linkage side
the white is 1211 to ensure the pipe doesn't pop a leak...and you HAVE TO HAVE TO wrap the motor up Or else you will NEVER EVER make temp and WILL throw the rod...Been there done that...also another bonus to the RD peices is that you can actually use a filter...the Hudy stand You CANNOT use a filter....the prop is cut out to match the face of the block and there's just NO room.
home made jobby...with the RDlogics nose cone...here's a pic
Deznuts05...you use a plane nose cone starter..there like 20-30 if you shop around...i got my Torq master 180 for 10$ on ebay with a radio case.
...we do let the motor cool between runs...if the motor's ridiculously tight...we might run the first 2 tanks back to back....and i guess you could toss on a previously broken in motor.....you wnna test for problems your having ? the prop is a load...but nothing like the rear car with a flywheel and clutch set-up...so only so much can be learned from the bench.Exhaust side
linkage side
the white is 1211 to ensure the pipe doesn't pop a leak...and you HAVE TO HAVE TO wrap the motor up Or else you will NEVER EVER make temp and WILL throw the rod...Been there done that...also another bonus to the RD peices is that you can actually use a filter...the Hudy stand You CANNOT use a filter....the prop is cut out to match the face of the block and there's just NO room.
01-26-2009, 06:04 PM
#11
[QUOTE=Integra;5345290]
home made jobby...with the RDlogics nose cone...here's a pic
Deznuts05...you use a plane nose cone starter..there like 20-30 if you shop around...i got my Torq master 180 for 10$ on ebay with a radio case....we do let the motor cool between runs...if the motor's ridiculously tight...we might run the first 2 tanks back to back....and i guess you could toss on a previously broken in motor.....you wnna test for problems your having ? the prop is a load...but nothing like the rear car with a flywheel and clutch set-up...so only so much can be learned from the bench.
Exhaust side
linkage side
the white is 1211 to ensure the pipe doesn't pop a leak...and you HAVE TO HAVE TO wrap the motor up Or else you will NEVER EVER make temp and WILL throw the rod...Been there done that...also another bonus to the RD peices is that you can actually use a filter...the Hudy stand You CANNOT use a filter....the prop is cut out to match the face of the block and there's just NO room.
you break your in just like you would a plane, i actually never thought of that dang. ive used the a bench for the past year or so i have to admit my engines run alot better when brok in on bench than on a car and last a gallon or so more too...
home made jobby...with the RDlogics nose cone...here's a pic
Deznuts05...you use a plane nose cone starter..there like 20-30 if you shop around...i got my Torq master 180 for 10$ on ebay with a radio case.
...we do let the motor cool between runs...if the motor's ridiculously tight...we might run the first 2 tanks back to back....and i guess you could toss on a previously broken in motor.....you wnna test for problems your having ? the prop is a load...but nothing like the rear car with a flywheel and clutch set-up...so only so much can be learned from the bench.Exhaust side
linkage side
the white is 1211 to ensure the pipe doesn't pop a leak...and you HAVE TO HAVE TO wrap the motor up Or else you will NEVER EVER make temp and WILL throw the rod...Been there done that...also another bonus to the RD peices is that you can actually use a filter...the Hudy stand You CANNOT use a filter....the prop is cut out to match the face of the block and there's just NO room.
you break your in just like you would a plane, i actually never thought of that dang. ive used the a bench for the past year or so i have to admit my engines run alot better when brok in on bench than on a car and last a gallon or so more too...
01-26-2009, 06:20 PM
#12
[QUOTE=Integra;5345290]
home made jobby...with the RDlogics nose cone...here's a pic
Deznuts05...you use a plane nose cone starter..there like 20-30 if you shop around...i got my Torq master 180 for 10$ on ebay with a radio case....we do let the motor cool between runs...if the motor's ridiculously tight...we might run the first 2 tanks back to back....and i guess you could toss on a previously broken in motor.....you wnna test for problems your having ? the prop is a load...but nothing like the rear car with a flywheel and clutch set-up...so only so much can be learned from the bench.
Exhaust side
linkage side
the white is 1211 to ensure the pipe doesn't pop a leak...and you HAVE TO HAVE TO wrap the motor up Or else you will NEVER EVER make temp and WILL throw the rod...Been there done that...also another bonus to the RD peices is that you can actually use a filter...the Hudy stand You CANNOT use a filter....the prop is cut out to match the face of the block and there's just NO room.
It works allot better if you spray everything with melted cheese instead of melted marshmellows
home made jobby...with the RDlogics nose cone...here's a pic
Deznuts05...you use a plane nose cone starter..there like 20-30 if you shop around...i got my Torq master 180 for 10$ on ebay with a radio case.
...we do let the motor cool between runs...if the motor's ridiculously tight...we might run the first 2 tanks back to back....and i guess you could toss on a previously broken in motor.....you wnna test for problems your having ? the prop is a load...but nothing like the rear car with a flywheel and clutch set-up...so only so much can be learned from the bench.Exhaust side
linkage side
the white is 1211 to ensure the pipe doesn't pop a leak...and you HAVE TO HAVE TO wrap the motor up Or else you will NEVER EVER make temp and WILL throw the rod...Been there done that...also another bonus to the RD peices is that you can actually use a filter...the Hudy stand You CANNOT use a filter....the prop is cut out to match the face of the block and there's just NO room.
It works allot better if you spray everything with melted cheese instead of melted marshmellows
01-26-2009, 07:20 PM
#13
http://www.hudy.net/xhudy/products/p...9&kategoria=69
Here is the HUDY Engine Break-In Bench Instruction Manual. It will explain it all for you.
Here is the HUDY Engine Break-In Bench Instruction Manual. It will explain it all for you.
01-26-2009, 07:37 PM
#14
1: with a airplane nosestarter or chicken stick
2:This depends on method but i have broken n my motors with 2 min @ 180-190 then let cool x5 times then i increase the time to 5 min x3 all idling.Idle for a tank.Then increase RPM 1 min cool x2-3. then blips for a tank. I go through about 6 tanks before i throw her in the car and take it easy at the track for the next few tanks.Many different ways really.
3: yes you can and like integra said you can actually trouble shoot on the stand real nice
Tip: Get a roll of aluminum duct seal tape at and HVAC store or of the like.The foil can some time blow off
01-26-2009, 07:55 PM
#15
Tech Rookie
my questions are; why dont you just use a pullstart, and what is the propellor for?