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Old 03-17-2012, 08:21 AM
  #7771  
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Originally Posted by imrob
Hey you guy running the m2c clutch system what you all get for spring slash weight. Right now i have got mine set up like the instruction say i even put the play in the like they say. I dont think i ever had one with this much play yet. You want the flywheel as close to the block as you can get it right with out rubbing cause mine sit real close to the block i can slide 2 sheet of paper in between the fly and block. i got the collet on the inner race of the bearing right against it. i set the fly wheel by tighteing and losing then tighting it back up a couple of time is this hoe you guy put your on. sorry for so many question at once i just want to make sure it right so i dont f it up right away it my first 4 shoe after market system. it just sit diff from the stock fly that all.
i put a spacer on the crank before the collet, this way you dont have to use as many shims before putting clutch bell on, to many shims before clutch bell will put the bell to far forward and you wont have 100% shoe contact on bell housing.
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Old 03-17-2012, 11:42 AM
  #7772  
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Originally Posted by D-MAIN
i put a spacer on the crank before the collet, this way you dont have to use as many shims before putting clutch bell on, to many shims before clutch bell will put the bell to far forward and you wont have 100% shoe contact on bell housing.
acturally i got a total of two shim on my shaft one before and one after with the old one i had 4. but i think it right
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Old 03-19-2012, 10:35 PM
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just a heads up, i have a brand new lightened chassis with side guards forsale if anyone is interested.
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Old 03-22-2012, 10:46 AM
  #7774  
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had a little time on my hands..

mounted in HB radio tray





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Old 03-22-2012, 11:06 AM
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Nice work, looks clean. Getting one of those little electric buggers myself!
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Old 03-22-2012, 11:07 AM
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Originally Posted by Precision1
Nice work, looks clean. Getting one of those little electric buggers myself!
thx man.. some dremel work needs to be done as can be seen from my tools... LOL.. but small sacrifice...
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Old 03-29-2012, 06:17 PM
  #7777  
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I finally got a chance to run my d8t. Wow. I'm going to be fast with this thing. I'm running one of ty's setups for a basic setup minus the red rear springs. Off power steering is great. I have a slight push but its very predictable. So predictable I can slightly touch the brake and she rolls around perfect. It could have been the tires also. I was running soft I beams on a very dry and dusty track. On race day the track won't be near that dry so the truck should handle beautifully.

I'm going to try red springs in the rear sooner or later which should give me more steering.

I built this truck over the winter so it had some growing pains. Both front hinge pins came loose(forgot to put the rear screw in the new arm) brake linkage wasn't working right and a shock mount screw came out. Otherwise, flawless.

I'm my worst enemy. The truck is very capable.
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Old 03-29-2012, 08:59 PM
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Originally Posted by kgombe
had a little time on my hands..

mounted in HB radio tray





is that swicth rated for lipo or does it not matter
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Old 03-29-2012, 09:08 PM
  #7779  
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""""I'm my worst enemy. The truck is very capable."""""


my problem also
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Old 03-29-2012, 11:49 PM
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KO switch can run in lipo or non lipo. Love these switches. There is a mode for lipo or non lipo so make sure it is setup right or voltage cut starts early with a life or nimh pack in lipo mode and makes things go crazy.
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Old 03-29-2012, 11:54 PM
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Anyone have troubles with the Lunsford steering rods being too long and stressing the inner ball link on bell crank? Notice some cracks and can only think that they come from that. The whole setup is new and never tightened them down to more that 2 degrees of toe.
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Old 03-30-2012, 07:10 AM
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Originally Posted by ROSCOE
KO switch can run in lipo or non lipo. Love these switches. There is a mode for lipo or non lipo so make sure it is setup right or voltage cut starts early with a life or nimh pack in lipo mode and makes things go crazy.
cool thanks
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Old 03-31-2012, 03:18 PM
  #7783  
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Took my D8T with Clocked Werks B5 out for its first dry-ground run today now that spring is finally here (last time was when there was still ice on the ground, so hard to judge what it's capable of with no traction ). Had to make due with a park field since our track here in Edmonton is still very waterlogged. All I can say is OMG, this thing hauls! When it gets warmed up, the B5 just rips, and I love that "chainsaw-esque" sound. Definitely brought a smile to my face. I can't wait to see how the D8T handles on the track this summer. Yes, it was a good day....... *goofy grin*
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Old 03-31-2012, 11:45 PM
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Can someone pleas explain to me how I pulled a brand new tank out the plastic and it leaks?

I pulled it out and noticed the seal appeared, odd. I did the underwater mouth pressure test and sure enough the lid is bubbling like crazy. What's up with that? Now i see why the tank I'm using looks modified.
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Old 03-31-2012, 11:57 PM
  #7785  
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Originally Posted by Franchise
Can someone pleas explain to me how I pulled a brand new tank out the plastic and it leaks?

I pulled it out and noticed the seal appeared, odd. I did the underwater mouth pressure test and sure enough the lid is bubbling like crazy. What's up with that? Now i see why the tank I'm using looks modified.
spray some WD40 on the seal in the lid.. and you should be fine..
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