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Old 01-20-2009, 07:29 PM   #1
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Default I dont get "shimming" please explain...

hi there,

i have the same problem that most people with muggies have, the clutch. I bought a XTM sliding clutch to see if that will help. however, i am not sure what "shimming" is or, if i understand correctly, how much shimming i need?! can someone please help me?! i kinda get the idea that i need a washer or so to keep the bell from moving to much. how much is too much?

thanks
G

p.s. i bought a dremel today to shorten the drive shaft, if that is what its called...should i do that?
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Old 01-20-2009, 07:41 PM   #2
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first of all do not cut the crankshaft!!

Next, buy a shim kit from ofna or whatever brand. it is basically just random washers some thick some thin. then the main goal is to have the clutch bell only be able to move 1mm back or forth on the crankshaft without locking up the bearings. try experimenting with different thicknesses behind the clutch bell and in front of it. thats the general idea. then use a DAB of threadlock, you dont need a lot.
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Old 01-20-2009, 08:09 PM   #3
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Originally Posted by lalmog91 View Post
first of all do not cut the crankshaft!!

Next, buy a shim kit from ofna or whatever brand. it is basically just random washers some thick some thin. then the main goal is to have the clutch bell only be able to move 1mm back or forth on the crankshaft without locking up the bearings. try experimenting with different thicknesses behind the clutch bell and in front of it. thats the general idea. then use a DAB of threadlock, you dont need a lot.
Well said, and about thread lock, DO IT i usually do it and i didnt yesterday and blew out a brand new AVID bearing because the screw came out and the bearing exploded every were
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Old 01-20-2009, 08:25 PM   #4
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Originally Posted by lalmog91 View Post
first of all do not cut the crankshaft!!

Next, buy a shim kit from ofna or whatever brand. it is basically just random washers some thick some thin. then the main goal is to have the clutch bell only be able to move 1mm back or forth on the crankshaft without locking up the bearings. try experimenting with different thicknesses behind the clutch bell and in front of it. thats the general idea. then use a DAB of threadlock, you dont need a lot.
thanks for the fast response...
i already started messing with the crankshaft. just a little bit though. didn't have the right tool, so no damage done really. why is that a bad thing to do though?
you said a millimeter is OK...i don't have a tool that measures such small measurements. (almost bought one when i bought the dremel). the clutch bell can move the size of a normal toothpick, how much is that?

thanks again
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Old 01-20-2009, 08:26 PM   #5
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Well said, and about thread lock, DO IT i usually do it and i didnt yesterday and blew out a brand new AVID bearing because the screw came out and the bearing exploded every were
went through that myself the other day too...it sucks.
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Old 01-20-2009, 08:39 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by assivaen View Post
thanks for the fast response...
i already started messing with the crankshaft. just a little bit though. didn't have the right tool, so no damage done really. why is that a bad thing to do though?
you said a millimeter is OK...i don't have a tool that measures such small measurements. (almost bought one when i bought the dremel). the clutch bell can move the size of a normal toothpick, how much is that?

thanks again
Ive actually had the bearing melted to the inside of my clutch bell

no need to measure just a tiny bit of play should be fine
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Old 01-20-2009, 09:02 PM   #7
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Ive actually had the bearing melted to the inside of my clutch bell

no need to measure just a tiny bit of play should be fine
that sounds fine, but why not cut the shaft? it would make things easier...plus i can use my new dremel, ha ha...
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Old 01-20-2009, 09:05 PM   #8
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Dude, looking at your pictures I understand your question This is just like the clutch setup on my Baja. I also had to shim between the driveshaft and the pinion gear (baja clutches have a separate pinion gear and clutch bell) to minimize the amount of play.
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Old 01-20-2009, 09:21 PM   #9
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Just get they play close, shim it and bolt it, pull on the bell, if you think it moves to much, add a shim, you want a bit of play to compensate for the heat expansion. There is no direct fit, bearins are differant, bell gears are differant, internal bearings wear, so just shim it ...
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Old 01-20-2009, 09:36 PM   #10
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You can use your new dremel to debur some of the mushrooming of the clutch shoes
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Old 01-20-2009, 10:46 PM   #11
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You can use your new dremel to debur some of the mushrooming of the clutch shoes
damn, good idea. ha ha
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Old 01-20-2009, 10:52 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by screamin' eagle View Post
Dude, looking at your pictures I understand your question This is just like the clutch setup on my Baja. I also had to shim between the driveshaft and the pinion gear (baja clutches have a separate pinion gear and clutch bell) to minimize the amount of play.
i know what you mean...my friend has a baja 5b. he wants to sell it and get a "real" rc car. ha ha

Last edited by assivaen; 01-20-2009 at 11:54 PM.
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Old 01-21-2009, 08:27 AM   #13
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.3-.5 is what you want for end play....a Full mm is a little much imo.

For shim kits...DONT get the Ofna...its BS and only has about 3-4 actual 5x8 clutch shims...the rest are rubbish....the Kyosho shim kit is what you want....with all the adjust ability in the world.

http://carolinasrc.com/Webstore/Scri...idproduct=1794

and if your shimming ALOT...these are nice to have on hand.

http://carolinasrc.com/Webstore/Scri...idproduct=1307
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Old 01-21-2009, 10:12 AM   #14
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I agree with Integra, the Ofna shim kit has mostly trash. Your paying $5 for about 6 shims.

The reason you cant cut the crankshaft is beacuse you will be cutting the threads off for the setscrew, and once you make it smaller you cant adjust anymore. Really bad idea!
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Old 01-21-2009, 11:02 AM   #15
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I also agree that the OFNA shim kit is garbage. It only come with afew usable shims in the kit. You probably won't ever use rest of the stuff included with the kit.
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