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Old 03-19-2010, 12:27 PM   #31
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Another thing that you could check is the mounting bolts on the bottom of the chassis. They do come loose. Same goes for the 8 bolts on the top mount. Just a suggestion.

I cant say I have ever blown a clutch bearing. I guess I have been lucky.
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Old 03-19-2010, 12:35 PM   #32
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I have tried many different clutch bearings and I almost always go back to the losi HD bearings. They last well over a gallon and seem to spin easy. I whim the bell so there is just a tick of play and then use the paper trick to set the cb/ spur gear. But if the cb/ spur mesh is too loose I will sometimes move it manually to get it set right. The mesh is just as important as the proper cb shimming. If the bell is too tight it will blow bearings left and right. He only cb bearings I won't run are the crapy protek bearings. I will never waste any $$ on any protek beating ever again. I prob even threw some new ones out because they are just junk.
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Old 03-19-2010, 12:51 PM   #33
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I use cheapo protek $1 metal shielded bearings. They last a long time. I change them pretty much every weekend anyway. Make sure you have a nice loose mesh. I use a strip of a plastic parts bag(both layers of the bag) between the spur/bell to set my mesh. I'm surprised to hear you are having issues since you are running the KHZ mount. Once I started running the extended mount, all of my bearing issues went away. I also run a fioroni turbo sliding clutch and that helps extend bearing life as it creates very little heat and doesn't have the high impact that an aluminum shoe clutch has. Another thing I have noticed is that the losi clutch bells are really sloppy from the factory. The bearings just don't fit right. I use Robinson Racing bells. Also make sure to blast the grease out of your bearings with nitro spay. I use the RPM bearing blaster to blast them and then use racers edge modified bearing oil to oil them back up. You can even run them dry if you like.
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Old 05-15-2010, 09:21 PM   #34
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i know im coming in late, and im not reading the page 2 or 3.. but i have the opposite problem. my mess is too loose i think. i tried the paper mess method and it always chimed. so i always adjust by feel now. only shitty part it makes wears my CBell quicker than normal. not 4 runs quick.. maybe 2 gallons of fuel worth. maybe thats normal though.

i never tried a folded peice of paper, maybe that would be enough thinckness.
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Old 05-16-2010, 08:10 AM   #35
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Using paper to set GM? Ok back to planet earth now, you should have a small amount play after shimming the bell, engine straight with spur and should be able rock the gears slighty back and forth. If u are tight u can hear it binding when u simply role your tires. If somthing seems wrong then it probly is, loosen bolts and start over. Just plan on replacing those bearings every race, losing a race becuse of a 2$ bearing isnt worth it. Try ready-roller bearings, they a buck a piece and little better quality than the pro-teck. As far the bell the losi is good but the robinson is the way to go.
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Old 05-16-2010, 09:26 AM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Peter Martin View Post
To clarify...the TKO "special bearings' are steel. Ceramic will not help. Adam Drake runs our bearings and typically gets 4 to 5 gallons on them.

When you finish assembling to check for play rap the clutch bell towards the engine with a screwdriver handle..piece of wood etc. and see if the play increases. Sometimes the entire assembly needs to be seated first. We have seen this numerous times with the Losi.
Peter knows what hes talking about. His Special bearings are worth their weight in gold. The TKO bearings last longer then clutch shoes. If you can, pick up a tube of both the front and rear. Youll never buy bearings again.

5x10x4 TKO Special Front Bearing

5x13x4 TKO Special Rear Bearing

Just make sure you put the blue seals facing each other
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Old 05-16-2010, 09:31 AM   #37
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+ YouTube Video
ERROR: If you can see this, then YouTube is down or you don't have Flash installed.


ETA- I am not sponsored by Peter. This products just flat out works.
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