omarwashington

iTrader: (2)

This is said to be a professional style break-in method. I’m just wondering who have or have not tried this method what are your thoughts on this.



http://www.rbmods.net/enginetempering.php

zixxer

iTrader: (61)

i have used the exact method on one of my earlier engines ...it works fine

rearviewmirror

iTrader: (17)

I idle a couple of tanks then put it on the track for slow speed laps. Not saying it's better or worse for the engine, but I prefer it.

houston

iTrader: (96)

rick is a great guy and knows his sh!t . this is the method i have used for a while even before i read ricks article . engines perform 1,000,000,000 times better after using this break in method . it will feel as if you have lost the pinch much faster but it will last much longer
happy motorin' ,
monty

itsshemp

iTrader: (9)

This is the method I use when breaking in my dirt bike engines. I consider these little engines basically the same, so I dont normally do the 5 tank idle break in deal. 1- because I dont have those kind of patience, 2- because i think it is a waste.

The last engine I helped break in was a friends Ninja. We used basically this method, and the engine runs killer.

If you think of it logically, this method makes the most sense. Idling the engine for 2,000,000 tanks really doesnt make sense, or do much for it. Its hard to get the engine up to temp just sitting there. Even with foil wrapped around the head. Getting the piston/sleeve to expand and cool makes sense. I do idle a little of fuel through it, basically just to knock off any imperfections in the P/S. Once that is gone, then, IMO, its time to start driving it, while not putting a whole lot of stress on the engine. Varying the RPM while doing this is probably key during the break in process.

I know there are a TON of different methods out there. Some prefer to stick to there own that they have used for years.

Just my .02 .....

Gixxer2k4

iTrader: (11)

Funny i just read this i never do break in methods like the idle a few tanks thru it, i just got a savage an starting driving it in the parking lot an about six tanks later i was running it like normal. I was like i just dont have the patience to do it like that. It ran fine at the track that day to. Even do this stuff with motorcycles i vary the rpm's.

chunk t

I've been doing essentially the same thing with my boat and car engines over the years. BUT... The one thing I do differently is I DO run my needle on the rich side to get extra oil on the sleeve. To compensate for the extra cooling that occures from a fat needle; I restrict the cooling capacity of the engine. i.e.: cover the cooling fins on car engines or seal the water jacket on the marine engines. I bring my engines up to 250-280f reading because the extra oil is actually pulling the sleeve temp below the head's temp reading. This cooling effect on the sleeve from a very rich needle is why the article spoke about breaking in a "little" fat on the needle, to try to hold the sleeve temp up.

I personally won't run other than rich during break-in because I believe you need more oil to correctly lap the P&S, in addition to the extra heat.