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Old 01-15-2009, 08:42 PM   #46
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Originally Posted by Rocket42 View Post
The reason Go rods are so reasonably priced is smart manufacturing, Every .21, .25, .28 Go engine uses the same rod. That means 8 engines, 3port sport, 3 port race, 5port race, 7 port race, .25 sport, .25 race, .28 sport, .28 race. all use the same connecting rod. This allows them to mfgr. huge numbers of rods in one run, quantity drives the price down.

Smart manufacturering

Czech your argument holds no water, are you saying that Italy has superior brass (sleeve) or that there chrome is superior?

You are saying that the crankcases are cheap? I believe that O.S. crankcases probably have the worst reputation of any brand. Other then that what other material inconsistancy is there? The connecting rod, the connecting rod is designed to work in a .28 engine. The bearings are stamped Italy cause that is where they are made.
I believe we were discussing connecting rods......
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Old 01-16-2009, 08:50 AM   #47
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Originally Posted by ezveedub View Post
VG has a ABN sleeve (aluminum-brass-nickel)
Info from the VG Piston & Sleeve:

"Advanced Bi-Metallic Liner (ABL) cylinder liner construction
This process uses a double layer of plating material rather than
one thick layer. This helps the metal bond to the cylinder and is
more durable. Also, the plating process is more consistent,
resulting in a more precise fit between piston and sleeve
for better compression and longer life."
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Old 01-16-2009, 09:36 AM   #48
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Default Another vote for the Nova N21BF...

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Originally Posted by jamminnay View Post
the rossi t21bf is an awesome motor... it is much easier to tune then the GO motors as far as i am concerned
+1 on the N21BF. Ran one all last summer with no problems whatsoever. VERY easy to tune, reliable, and Cheap!

The RB engines would be another good choice. Most of our racers run them around here and claim they are very long lasting. I would have gotten one myself, but we ran out at the hobby shop. So I had to get the Nova.

Should not be disappointed with either choice.....
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Old 01-16-2009, 09:49 AM   #49
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Originally Posted by NitroLuver View Post
Id say if you want a decently priced motor with good performance the novarossi N21BF 3 port gets it done in both buggy and truggy( has respectable bottom and good top...but best of all it's not overpowering)...I'd run a jp-3 on this engine and an NR6(novarossi 6 which is medium) go tech's are also great engines but for the price pesonally i'd run a nova 3 port and if you wanna get a little more let Brian of PTM(Pro Twister Mods) mod it...then you'll have a sure fire screamer...good luck on your purchase
this is a good point it is easyer to drive less power better and fast than to drive way to much power faster but much slower

fast motor are for very good fast drive
you will know when the motor is just too much mikel
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Old 01-16-2009, 10:11 AM   #50
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Originally Posted by zJatoRad View Post
Info from the VG Piston & Sleeve:

"Advanced Bi-Metallic Liner (ABL) cylinder liner construction
This process uses a double layer of plating material rather than
one thick layer. This helps the metal bond to the cylinder and is
more durable. Also, the plating process is more consistent,
resulting in a more precise fit between piston and sleeve
for better compression and longer life."
Thats O.S. terms to scrammble out the ABN constuction of the sleeve (trying to hide the nickel part)

"The plated sleeve itself utilizes what O.S. calls an Advanced Bi-Metallic Liner, or ABL. This designates a process that uses dual plating layers of a nickel composite plating, combined with silicon carbide, instead of the single layer chrome that's more commonly seen with most motors. The benefit of this process is that the plating is more precise, providing a longer life and better seal between the piston and sleeve. This results in much more compression as well."

The above statement sums up the actual sleeve ABL/ABN subject.
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Old 01-16-2009, 10:13 AM   #51
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Does one need a regulate for lipo in a start box when using lipo??
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Old 01-16-2009, 10:17 AM   #52
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Does one need a regulate for lipo in a start box when using lipo??
No, unless you strap a LiPo over 14.8, which is not suited for the starter box anyway. Your just spinning motors in the box.
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Old 01-16-2009, 02:34 PM   #53
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My current Go engine is the .21 5 port it has 2.5 gallons on it and doesnt show any wear on the rod or pin. It is modified but in truggy I was pulling away from OS .28xz and V-specs every week. People are scared of them because they arent $400, I am very happy with it and my next engine will be a GO.
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Old 01-16-2009, 06:40 PM   #54
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Are .21 size motors better than the .28's for truggy? It seems that most of the suggestions are for the smaller motors, why?
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Old 01-16-2009, 06:44 PM   #55
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Also what clutches are reliable for these types of cars? Do I want 3, 4, or I have even seen a 6 shoe clutch on some sites. What's good?
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Old 01-16-2009, 06:46 PM   #56
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Originally Posted by racerj3 View Post
Are .21 size motors better than the .28's for truggy? It seems that most of the suggestions are for the smaller motors, why?
Fuel economy and control. The .28 usually is overkill now with race truggies, since they are now fully designed & lightweight, not buggies converted to overweight trucks like in the past.
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Old 01-16-2009, 07:05 PM   #57
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Originally Posted by Zerodefect View Post
I'd avoid:

GO (cheap, but not as cheap as the RB S5&3, so whats the point)
Jammin (fuel hogs, good warranty, not as easy to tune)
GRP (fragile, and Impossible to tune)

Just stick to what you know works, what is everyone else running?
i would like to see your proof of this. if you follow what pros tell u left and right its a cinch to tune.

leave the hsn at factory and tune with the lsn. and this isnt "fragile"

the grp isnt for new racers but its a great motor.
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Old 01-16-2009, 10:53 PM   #58
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ezveedub View Post
Thats O.S. terms to scrammble out the ABN constuction of the sleeve (trying to hide the nickel part)

"The plated sleeve itself utilizes what O.S. calls an Advanced Bi-Metallic Liner, or ABL. This designates a process that uses dual plating layers of a nickel composite plating, combined with silicon carbide, instead of the single layer chrome that's more commonly seen with most motors. The benefit of this process is that the plating is more precise, providing a longer life and better seal between the piston and sleeve. This results in much more compression as well."

The above statement sums up the actual sleeve ABL/ABN subject.
I see, thanks for clearing it up.
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Old 01-17-2009, 04:54 AM   #59
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Hi,
I am Stella and I think Orion Wasp is one of the best. I am currently working on Orion Wasp and you should try it. Thank you so much. If you found the best please let me know.

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Old 01-17-2009, 05:21 AM   #60
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Originally Posted by losi_racer View Post
i would like to see your proof of this. if you follow what pros tell u left and right its a cinch to tune.

leave the hsn at factory and tune with the lsn. and this isnt "fragile"

the grp isnt for new racers but its a great motor.

Got a pile of GRP toast. Easy to damage carb, you need to make sure its lined up with the linkage perfectly. Seen a con-rod fly apart near the pin and kill the entire engine. ETC. I'll see if I can get a pick. I'm sure its a good motor. Best for skill level 4 racers. I've seen enough. I can't stand tuneing this engine. RB and OS are much easier. Stick to easier engines if your new. Save the GRP tuned stuff to those who really need it.

BTW, what is the factory setting? Instructions didn't say what the baseline was. Gee thanks GRP. For a while everyone was being told the wrong base settings.

I'll stick with RB/Novarossi.
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