To Much Slop on a Ring and Pinion
 

I have a savage but this tip should work with several differentials. Mine had so much slop in it that it grinded and slipped when you got on the brakes hard. Well it finally destroyed the ring and pinion. I ordered a new one and when I put it together it still slipped. To fix this I took a piece of 80 grit sand paper on a flat surface and after marking how much slop I had and removing the ring gear. You take the aluminum cup and holding it firm and flat on the sand paper you just keep moving it in a small circl till you get the amount you need removed. I then used a piece of 400 grit to smooth it out and then using a cleaner of some sort (soap and water or brake cleaner etc...) to clean all the gears and cup out. Put your differential back together and see hoe the gear mesh is now. You may have to sand more or if you get lucky like I did it will be perfect on the first try. I can now hit the brakes on my Savage and have it do front flips with NO slipping ,grinding, or noise of any kind. I hope I described it good enough. If not let me know and i will try to better describe what I did. Thanks and I hope this helps some one.:nod:

usually you can just use a few diff shims to resolve that problem. IDK about a savage but most diffs are supposed to be shimmed anyway. And even if they aren't supposed to be you CAN shim them. I would think the mod you did would interfere with the internal gear mesh. make sure your diff is still active and not locked. I would think by decreasing the length of the diff cup you would tighten all the internals up and lock them. I would check on that. they are probably locked. if I am interpreting what you did correctly that is.

Yeah - I agree with JAMMINKRAZY, shim the diffs to remove play - this is a common prob with rtrs - they do not come shimmed from factory and due to assembly line part tolerances some have more slop that others, but they all benefit from shimming. I've shimmed Tmaxx, Emaxx, Ofna, UE diffs and others (18th scale). Its not hard to locate how-tos that list part numbers for the shims and tell you how to do it.

If your ring to pinion mesh was no good, rather than cutting cup down to move them closer, I would've used a shim under the ring gear side (under brg) to move the ring gear into better mesh. Its simplier and quicker, but does cost for the parts and takes some time since its trial and error until you get it all spaced correctly. Here's a Sav Central how-to on shimming diffs -

http://www.savage-central.com/module...shimming+diffs

You are understanding me correctly. If you were to take to much away then yes it would lock them up like a locker. In my case everything is working great. Can you describe more about these shims you are talking about and where exactly they would go? Thanks.