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Old 01-01-2009, 09:19 AM   #16
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Complete rebuild of everything. Steering, diffs, driveshafts, shocks and radio tray (i mean everything including the wing lol). You know for sure that the car is in top condition for it's next outing. I only use water on the plastics and the chassis once the car is in bits, have had bearings fail and screws rust because of water, and i did dry it all. To get hinge-pins etc shiny and not to bind i clean them up with Autosol cleaner
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Old 01-01-2009, 10:14 AM   #17
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And BTW (lol) dont use WD-40 then simple green it wont work

WD-40: Water displacement (on the) 40th try there for, WD-40


You will go threw hell if you use wd-40 first
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Old 01-01-2009, 11:00 AM   #18
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Cleaning is a breeze...
1. Remove engine,radio tray. (Leave shocks on unless they are getting rebuilt)
2. Spray with O'donnell quick wash, let sit for about 2-3 minutes
3. Hose down
4. Use air compressor to remove ALL excess water.
5. Spray front and rear clips(arms,bulkheads outdrives) with wd40.
6. Spray center diff assembly with wd40.
7. Let wd40 dry and remove unseen excess moisture.
8. wipe off excess wd40
9. reinstall engine(quick brush off to remove excess junk)
10. Brush off radio tray and servo's and reinstall...

DONE

Very quick and easy I check the hinge pins and such about once a month unless I notice some unusual behavior from the buggy while running...
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Old 01-01-2009, 11:01 AM   #19
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O'Donnell Speed wash is the correct name.
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Old 01-01-2009, 11:22 AM   #20
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I used to do do the simple green/ hose/ compressor deal and it works good. Since my compressor broke I have switched to paint brushes and pledge. I like the pledge much better than wd40.

After a few cleanups using pledge the dirt doesn't stick to the car anymore.
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Old 01-01-2009, 11:35 AM   #21
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Originally Posted by infanterene View Post
I used to do do the simple green/ hose/ compressor deal and it works good. Since my compressor broke I have switched to paint brushes and pledge. I like the pledge much better than wd40.

After a few cleanups using pledge the dirt doesn't stick to the car anymore.
+1 pledge works real well. I still use wd-40 on the bearings and outdrives and then coat it with pledge. the pledge leaves a much nicer finish than wd and it repels dirt instead of attracting it. but I still feel after using water wd is a mucs on all the rust prone areas(outdrives, bearings, cvd joints)
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Old 01-01-2009, 11:38 AM   #22
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Ok here is my basic cleaning process. can be done in about an hour maybe less.
step 1: take the dirty car and pull the body, wing, and tires off. Now pull the engine, fuel tank, radio tray, and pipe off.

step 2: with it torn down to the basic roller chassis, hose it down with the garden hose (I use a short hose attached to my basement sink in the winter)

step 3: douse heavily with diluted simple green and scrub with a scrub brush/ tooth brush for small areas.

step 4: rinse with hose

step 5: spray bearings and outdrives etc. with wd-40

step 6: coat with pledge (yes the furniture cleaner/polish). this step can be skipped or you can use wd-40 for this too. I prefer the pledge because it shines it, doesn't leave an oily residue and repels dust.

step 7: dry with air compressor and wrags.

step 8: reassemble

step 9: get it dirty again lol

My cars look brand new every weekend. Some may prefer to remove the shocks aswell, and clean them seperately. Personally I have never had a problem with them getting any water in them.

It may also be a good idea to use wd-40 on hinge pins and ball end joints.
i do exactly the same as the first reply, but also you need to take out your hinge pins and wipe them off also take pipe cleaner and run them thru you a-arms
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Old 01-01-2009, 11:41 AM   #23
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i do exactly the same as the first reply, but also you need to take out your hinge pins and wipe them off also take pipe cleaner and run them thru you a-arms
I usually spray hinge pins with wd-40 and or pledge with them still in the arms and never had one bind, squeek or feel gritty. It would prolly be best to pull them but i'm too lazy for that lol
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Old 01-01-2009, 04:06 PM   #24
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I never use a garden hose or directly spray water on my buggy. This can cause unforseen problems. Water can sieze screws that thread into any metal, rust and/or pit hingepins causing excessive suspension arm wear and damage to your shocks and bearings. This is how i like to do it, it takes 1.5-2 hours tops depending on how many maintenence issues you find.

-Remove/Clean Body
-Remove tires/wheels
-Pull Engine/Pipe and fuel line
-Pull Radio tray
-Fuel tank,Take a 6in peice of spare fuel tubing and route it from the pressure nipple to the outlet nipple. Remove/Clean.
-Remove/Clean wing
-Remove shocks
-Detatch swaybars from arms
-Remove all 4 upper hubcarrier hingepins/screws so the axles will flop out of the outdrives
-Use dry toothbrush to brush off the heavy dirt
-Use pick to clean dirt from screwheads on bottom side of chassis
-Take a red plastic party cup and fill it halfway with 50/50 Simple Green and alcohol.
-Dip toothbrush into cup and scrub the entire chassis like hell starting from one end and wipe with a rag as you go. But stay away from outer wheel bearings.
-Remove the wheel hubs then pop out the wheel bearings and wipe them off. Roll between your fingers, if their gritty, clean and relube.
-Remove springs and boots from shocks and clean and inspect assembly.
-Use dry toothbrush to scrub radio tray
-Dry toothbrush on the engine/pipe, inspect/repair clutch
-clean re-oil air filters
The product I use to protect and lubricate the chassis may be hard to find for you but its called Maxima SC1. Motocross shops that carry Maxima brand lubricants will have it. It is superior to WD40 because it dries non greasy so dust doesnt stick but leaves a "wet" appearance. After assembly I spray the crap out of the car save the brakes and let it dry.
I found this cleaning method works best because not only does it keep harmful water away but also allows you to put your hands and eyes on every part of the car so you can see any problems that may have came up.
this is way to much work. if you race and go through your ride as much as you SHOULD there is no reason water will hurt it . if your car sits along enough to let the water start messing up your metal parts then your car is going to be junk anyway.. i pull my engine.. stop at the car wash on the way home.. hit it with simple green..blast it all out.. get home ..hit it with some air.. then wd 40.. then it comes about 80% apart for the next week..
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Old 01-01-2009, 05:05 PM   #25
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this is way to much work. if you race and go through your ride as much as you SHOULD there is no reason water will hurt it . if your car sits along enough to let the water start messing up your metal parts then your car is going to be junk anyway.. i pull my engine.. stop at the car wash on the way home.. hit it with simple green..blast it all out.. get home ..hit it with some air.. then wd 40.. then it comes about 80% apart for the next week..
Car wash???
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Old 01-01-2009, 06:21 PM   #26
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BigAL got it right!!

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Old 01-01-2009, 06:49 PM   #27
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yessir.. no scrubbing or rubbing .. green stuff and some pressure.. cost 1.50.. but its clean when im done.. dont find any small spots i might of missed with the water hose.. crash.. is there anything you dont have a pic of??
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Old 01-01-2009, 06:56 PM   #28
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nope...iphone rules
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Old 01-01-2009, 07:46 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BigAlz View Post
this is way to much work. if you race and go through your ride as much as you SHOULD there is no reason water will hurt it . if your car sits along enough to let the water start messing up your metal parts then your car is going to be junk anyway.. i pull my engine.. stop at the car wash on the way home.. hit it with simple green..blast it all out.. get home ..hit it with some air.. then wd 40.. then it comes about 80% apart for the next week..
If you dont use the water hose on your car you dont have to go through all the bearings and diffs and shocks every week. Say you have fresh fluid everywhere and freshly greased bearings. You race the car 1-1.5 hrs(im guessing this is average runtime for a typical amatuer racer, counting practice) during the weekend. You cannot make me believe the fluids in the shocks and diffs are toast after one day of racing. If they havent leaked and still feel freshly rebuilt,which they should, since its only been ran for 1.5hrs tops. Assuming you know how to properly build/bleed shocks and diffs so they dont leak or lose dampening, they should be ready to go for another race day. As far as the bearings, water can and will get in them, reguardless of sheild type. Usually the outer bearings get fresh grease every week. The diff bearings last two along with the diffs. Like i said before, when using my preferred cleaning method, you get to put you hands and eyes on every part of the car. This combines cleaning and matinence. When you see an issue or issues while cleaning you can go right back to them after cleaning and fix them.
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Old 01-01-2009, 08:04 PM   #30
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you dont have to rebuild the diffs and shocks after getting your car wet...
but how are your bearings getting the dust cleaned out of them if you say you dont have to go through them??? after a day at the track my bearings need good blasting out regardless how it was cleaned.. especially if they are "greased" up like you say. ..i have never ran the grease in my bearings... or alot of lube for that matter.. im not fast but i know what works for me .. and i know water will not hurt a well maintenced car.
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