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Old 12-26-2008, 08:38 PM   #1
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Default 8T Track Setup Help

I got a 8T
RB C6BB7T
Fironi Clutch
King Headz Motor Mount
CF Steering Ackerman

Diff fluid 7,30,5

I have trouble with mine not wanting to turn while on the track. My steering is going all the way to the steering stops. Every other car seems to be able to take the turns so easy but mine want to take long sweeps. Seems like it does it on and off power. But not sure. What can I do? Drives me nuts Im always hitting the guard pipes. Brakes are not dragging as I have springs installed. and plenty of gap
I went through not to long ago and set the droop and ride height according to some chart.
What are you guys doing for worn out hinge pin braces? Mine is so loose. I mean the whole truck is loose. lol.
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Old 12-26-2008, 08:41 PM   #2
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Get rid of that 30k center fluid. I would try 10k. If you have to 15 but I really se no need for that. I would think that has alot to do with your problems. I have never really seen anyone use anything other than 10k in the center in a losi.
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Old 12-26-2008, 09:35 PM   #3
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http://www.losi.com/ProdInfo/Files/8IGHTTDrakeStd08.pdf


may be a little to aggressive ..but it might be a starting point
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Old 12-26-2008, 09:36 PM   #4
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check out
www.m2cracing.com

mitch makes an updated hinge pine holder thats adjustable ...i see alot of people running them at the track .....
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Old 12-27-2008, 12:15 AM   #5
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Definatly get rid of the 30K center diff and go to either 7k-F, 10k-C, and 3k or 5k-R,

i use the losi adjustable hinge pin braces which i find to be really good and you can also buy packs of the replacement bushings separate which most other companies dont do
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Old 12-27-2008, 06:39 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TIX View Post
Definatly get rid of the 30K center diff and go to either 7k-F, 10k-C, and 3k or 5k-R,

i use the losi adjustable hinge pin braces which i find to be really good and you can also buy packs of the replacement bushings separate which most other companies dont do
m2c offers them .....

http://www.m2cracing.com/product.sc?...&productId=222

and m2c stuff is made by m2c at his shop ...its pretty quality stuff
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Old 12-27-2008, 07:54 AM   #7
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Originally Posted by zixxer View Post
m2c offers them .....

http://www.m2cracing.com/product.sc?...&productId=222

and m2c stuff is made by m2c at his shop ...its pretty quality stuff
Those look real nice! I just wish they could use the screw on weights like his non adjustable ones do. Thats my favorite part about mine. I don't have to deal with little stick on weights.
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Old 12-27-2008, 10:54 AM   #8
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The 30k in the center will definitely make it push and not want to turn as easily as a lighter fluid would allow.

But nobody mentioned to check your servo saver assembly. Make sure your saver hasn't backed way off causing less tension on your ss spring. That will also not allow your truggy to turn very well at any high speeds.

It's probably not the servo saver but just thought I would mention it as a possibility as it's happened to me before. I just use some blue loctite on the threads now and it never happens anymore.
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Old 12-27-2008, 12:11 PM   #9
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Excellent replys guys. Thankx. I will try 10 or 15 then and see how it goes. I had the servo saver back off before so I red loctited it. Never move again.
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Old 01-09-2009, 11:31 PM   #10
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Ok, Update. I put am now 7,10 and I believe 3. Its better but still doesnt turn much. All the buggys at the local track cut in front of me during my wide turns. Doesnt matter really if they are slow to medium turns. My brother 8T does the same thing. I drove my dads buggy and it turn on a dime. I was running into all the guard rails. I am hitting the steering stops on the knuckles, servo saver is tight. All 3 cars have the same tires. I would say Im on the gas some during these turns. Any ideas? Does this truggy just not turn very quick? Seems like their geometry of the turnbuckles during full turn allows the opposite wheel, I think, to have quite a bit of movement. Like the turnbuckle is out of its range of motion. I think Im gonna get me a RC8. The turning kills me on the track. Otherwise I can beat everyone.

Driving me nuts.
Could toe or camber or the setup of the links do anything? Its got stock RTR shock fluid. I had the droop and ride height all setup couple times ago.
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Old 01-09-2009, 11:46 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Speed_Freak_039 View Post
I got a 8T
RB C6BB7T
Fironi Clutch
King Headz Motor Mount
CF Steering Ackerman

Diff fluid 7,30,5

I have trouble with mine not wanting to turn while on the track. My steering is going all the way to the steering stops. Every other car seems to be able to take the turns so easy but mine want to take long sweeps. Seems like it does it on and off power. But not sure. What can I do? Drives me nuts Im always hitting the guard pipes. Brakes are not dragging as I have springs installed. and plenty of gap
I went through not to long ago and set the droop and ride height according to some chart.
What are you guys doing for worn out hinge pin braces? Mine is so loose. I mean the whole truck is loose. lol.
30K is way to thick for the centre...I personally like the 7/10/5 stock setup. How many degrees of toe are you running in the front, that could also be why it isn't turning sharp. I only have about 1 degree of toe and I have more than enough steering. Also you could be overdriving it....but if you put all these things together you will have a truck that goes fast in a straight line and doesn't want to turn.
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Old 01-09-2009, 11:49 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Speed_Freak_039 View Post
Ok, Update. I put am now 7,10 and I believe 3. Its better but still doesnt turn much. All the buggys at the local track cut in front of me during my wide turns. Doesnt matter really if they are slow to medium turns. My brother 8T does the same thing. I drove my dads buggy and it turn on a dime. I was running into all the guard rails. I am hitting the steering stops on the knuckles, servo saver is tight. All 3 cars have the same tires. I would say Im on the gas some during these turns. Any ideas? Does this truggy just not turn very quick? Seems like their geometry of the turnbuckles during full turn allows the opposite wheel, I think, to have quite a bit of movement. Like the turnbuckle is out of its range of motion. I think Im gonna get me a RC8. The turning kills me on the track. Otherwise I can beat everyone.

Driving me nuts.
Could toe or camber or the setup of the links do anything? Its got stock RTR shock fluid. I had the droop and ride height all setup couple times ago.
get off the throttle, if there hair pin turns then hit the brakes to slide the rear end around you will have to have your brake bias set right to do this

but no matter what turn it is if u get off the throttle durin the turn u can turn sharper. i have no problems with mine tho i run 7/20/3
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Old 01-10-2009, 12:47 AM   #13
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Hey Speedfreak.... is there any guys running an 8T at your track? If there is I wouldnt be afraid to ask them for some help/tips. They can help you way more than anyone on here because they can look at your setup and look at how the truck runs on the track.

In the meantime.....
Set the truck up on something so the wheels arent touching the ground or table and switch on your radio gear. With your transmitter, turn the wheels left and right quickly. Ideally, the servo will respond pretty quickly and flick the steering assembly back and forth with ease. If not, listen to the servo. Any unusual buzzing or clicking noises suggest steering assembly binding.
If the servo sounds fine but is just slow, try to borrow a known working servo and install it to see if it is faster. If so, buy yourself a new servo. Also, if your radio has adjustable servo speed you should check to make sure the steering setting isnt too low.
You need to check those shocks out. I dont know how much use your truck has, but shocks play an important role in the handling of any vehicle. If you have put alot of time on the RTR shock oil I would say its time to freshen them up. If they arent leaking then its probably ok to dump the old fluid and pour in some fresh, but i would rebuild them while im in there anyway.
You say that you are using throttle in the corners? Try this. Finish your braking before the corner. Turn in and hug the inside tightly (90% of the time the fastest way around a corner) without using any throttle input until you start to exit the corner. Using throttle in some low speed corners will shift the weight of the truck rearward causing the front tires to lose traction and push towards the outside of the corner like you are describing. Im sure all of us want to take corners like Ryan Lutz, but its way harder than it looks.
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Old 01-10-2009, 04:36 AM   #14
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I would definitely get rid of the stock rtr shock fluid. It's not the genuine losi bottled stuff it's some nasty stinky oil.

Another thing you might have overlooked is ride height. The losi's are very sensitive to ride height changes. The truggy should be set at this:

Front- 36mm

Rear- 38mm


Try this as it's the base T 1.0 race roller shock setup and it works excellent.

Shock oils:

Front- 54 piston/45wt oil Black spring

Rear- 56 piston/30wt oil Grey spring
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Old 01-10-2009, 09:43 AM   #15
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OK thankx, I'll try the shock oil. I run a Hitec 985 for steering.
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