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Old 01-10-2009, 11:03 AM   #16
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Does losi have a rebuild kit or are there any a/f o-rings you guys recommend?
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Old 01-10-2009, 11:07 AM   #17
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http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...oducts_id/7812

Here are the losi o-rings. I dont need to replace the bushings right or guides?
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Old 01-10-2009, 11:33 AM   #18
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Get green slime

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...oducts_id/3068

put it on the o rings and a little on the end of the shock shaft so when u slide it back in the threads wont destroy the new orings u just installed, i love that stuff
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Old 01-10-2009, 11:39 AM   #19
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Originally Posted by Speed_Freak_039 View Post
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...oducts_id/7812

Here are the losi o-rings. I dont need to replace the bushings right or guides?
Nah man just get the 'o' rings set and get a tube of green slime for assembly and you will be good to go. Just remember to work the piston up and down when you refill the shock to get all the air bubbles out.
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Old 01-10-2009, 11:43 AM   #20
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Dont buy that green slime. Sure its convienent in the little squirt tube but you will be out of it before you know it. Just go to walmart or some place like that and buy a tub of automotive axle grease. I have the walmart "super tech" brand. It was about $4 and there is pretty much a lifetime supply. That green slime is nothing special, its just regular cheapo axle grease colered green.
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Old 01-14-2009, 01:57 PM   #21
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Hey, I put my truggy and my dads buggy side to side, I drove his at the track and it turns way better, I was running into the guard rails from oversteering. When i put the side by side my truggy turns the wheels sharper and has a smaller turning radius then the buggy. His front diff is very free moving, as in light weight fluid. I have 7k in my front. Would a difference be seen from 7k-5k or should I go down to 3k like in my rear?
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Old 01-14-2009, 03:00 PM   #22
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Speed,
First thing that comes to mind is tires...

But, for a setup, I have found the Race Roller setup a GREAT place to start. If I ever get too far off, I just revert back to this as a starting point and tweak from there. http://www.losi.com/ProdInfo/Files/8T-part4.pdf go to page ten.

There is a ton of tuning info starting on page six or seven that can be useful for tweaking the setup, (like, you may want to check which sway bars you are using for example...) but I cannot stress the importance of having a base, or starting point to set your truck back to after a day or two of chasing track conditions or racing at one track to the next.

Be very attentive to detail and look at the diff fluids, camber link locations, toe, ride height, shock pistons and fluid, etc. Go over the entire truck and make sure everything is set right.

Then, print off page 11 and record any changes you make throughout your track time so you can keep track of what works and what doesn't.

If you set your truck like this, it will go around the track. If it doesn't, then your tires, your servos, or your driving are messed up.
Good luck - from my experience, they are great trucks!
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Old 01-14-2009, 07:00 PM   #23
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Mine is setup up exactly like the Adam Drake setup sheet. Except engine and clutch obviously.
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Old 01-14-2009, 08:24 PM   #24
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Also remember if the idle is to high or the bottom end is on the lean side the truck will run on and feel like it is pushing. Also like someone else said ask a local they can watch the truck
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Old 01-14-2009, 10:58 PM   #25
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Dont buy that green slime. Sure its convienent in the little squirt tube but you will be out of it before you know it. Just go to walmart or some place like that and buy a tub of automotive axle grease. I have the walmart "super tech" brand. It was about $4 and there is pretty much a lifetime supply. That green slime is nothing special, its just regular cheapo axle grease colered green.
i buy a tube everytime i completly rebuild my shocks, i put some on both o rings in the shock, some on the threads of the shock, and some on the end of the plastic end so the shock boot will slide over it easy and not tear and i have some still left over EVERY time. so you must be usin to much or somethin. but o well
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Old 01-14-2009, 11:00 PM   #26
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Also remember if the idle is to high or the bottom end is on the lean side the truck will run on and feel like it is pushing. Also like someone else said ask a local they can watch the truck

btw this is VERY true. i was havin this issue with my truggy when i first got it, and i tuned the motor but my idle was high, i didnt think anythin of it, but i was hittin pipes left and right on my tight track, then a local racer whos been racin longer then my had me pull over he lowered my idle and he set me back down and turnin was so much easier, night and day difference
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Old 01-14-2009, 11:19 PM   #27
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I dont think its actually good to use green slime on your o-rings, just makes them bind up/ grab more..


Let the flames begin
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Old 01-15-2009, 12:44 AM   #28
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i buy a tube everytime i completly rebuild my shocks, i put some on both o rings in the shock, some on the threads of the shock, and some on the end of the plastic end so the shock boot will slide over it easy and not tear and i have some still left over EVERY time. so you must be usin to much or somethin. but o well

Yea I am with you, I always had some left over too when i used it. But you couldnt do all 4 shocks and the diffs and have much left over to do anything else until you buy another $2.50 tube of grease. Thats why I bought $4 lifetime supply. Hell I used the grease that was stuck to the lid for 2 months of racing every weekend berore i even touched what was in the tub.

SPEEDFREAK 039: At my local track all but maybe 3 corners are tight 180 degree turns. When i first started racing, the car seemed tight like you describe. Over the next few weeks with racing and practicing: I tried adjusting my driving style to suit the car first and it got a little better. I tried some different tires and settled on the ones that suited what i needed the best, but still not what Im really looking for. It got better with some shock and diff oil changes but i could still tell the car had more steering to offer.

I then installed some option c-hubs on my car that give the knuckle pivot more of a strait up angle (negative caster). This gives the tie rods more leverege on the steering knuckles and places more weight down on the front tires. I went from 22 degrees caster C-hub to a 20 degree and it gave the car more on and off power steering as well as a faster steering effect and a tighter turning radius, but negatively affected high speed handleing, stability in rough sections and made the car more twitchy under braking.Then most recently I moved the rear hub-carrier foward in the suspension arm. This was as simple as moving spacers in front of the hub to the back. This shortened the wheelbase and had the same effect as reducing the caster angle, more steering everywhere but less stability, as well as less foward traction. I dont know how your chassis will respond to these changes of if you even can perform these adjustments on your chassis, but they may be what your looking for.
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Old 01-15-2009, 01:14 AM   #29
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I dont think its actually good to use green slime on your o-rings, just makes them bind up/ grab more..


Let the flames begin
LOL jk


i havent had any issues and heard it was a good idea, it really works great to put on the end of the shock to put the shock boot on.

but as u know mike im sorta new, i started is September, btw this is douglas
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Old 01-15-2009, 09:50 PM   #30
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Well Im gonna try 3,10,3 this weekend and see how it goes. On our other truggy we took the sway bar off to see. The cars are the same.
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