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Old 06-05-2009, 11:00 PM   #31
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Originally Posted by spawn_x View Post
Sorry confused a bit, you are suggesting I use 48/13 or comparing it to 48/13? you are right I do have a 48/13 on the buggy now. Thanks my friend
48/13 if your running buggy diffs for a 12.18 final drive ratio
45/16 if your running truggy diffs in your buggy for a 12.09 final drive ratio
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Old 06-05-2009, 11:46 PM   #32
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I am running truggy gears on my 2.0 buggy. I have 45T spur and 15t clutch bell. The power is nice. Its faster on the bottom than the stock buggys thats out there. I was going to change it back to stock but after running it I changed my mind. I also had to tune my engine some after the change. It was bogging on the low end alot.
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Old 06-06-2009, 01:18 AM   #33
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Actually the 10 tooth (Truggy gears) input to the diffs means the center diff spins at more RPM for a given wheel speed (you can only roll so fast in the corners) when in the corners. This means the motor does not have to work as hard comming out. This is what makes the car feel more punchy. If you carry any rolling speed at all in the corner the thing will feel like a rocket when you apply power on exit.
However, when you are at a dead stop the motor will not spin the tires loose because of the increased ratio.
Losi has since come out with new gears that make it possible to go to this setup using their stuff.
The Losi 45 spur combined to the 17T clutch bell should be killer. 11.38/1 is a solid ratio to start.
You do not need as much clutch either. I ran 3 carbons with green on 2 and gold on 1 & one longlife aluminum on 1 gold spring. This clutch lasted for ever.

I have setup several cars for people this way and they have all said it was way easier to drive. Around the corner with speed... roll the throttle a little and you hit the jump. Done deal. Better fuel milage to boot. You just don't need to be on the gas as much.

This is why alot of other manufacturers are going to these mid 11/1 ratios.

Beware - For you newer guys to this stuff. The car will be totally different! Rolling and punching the throttle will be ballistic. From a dead stop it will be more mellow.

Thanks for really looking into this Casey and Billy. I gave up on it when discussing it with Losi in 07'. Good to see some eyes open up.
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Sorry for bringing this back, but I just never understood how these differed in acceleration based on the previous explanations. There must be a difference in the way the buggy gears and truggy gears accelerate because these have been track tested. And people have noticed a difference. But I don't think the previous explanations are the whole story.

I think if all four wheels are on the ground getting traction, both setups should accelerate the same. Same motor, same final drive ratio, same load=same acceleration. The motor has no idea what order the gear reduction happens between itself and the load(wheel). You can reduce most of the motor speed earlier (buggy) or later (truggy.) The load is the same at approx 12:1 FD gear ratio for both setups where the rubber meets the ground at the wheel. Plug in any numbers you want. At any given speed, both motors/wheels will spin at the same ratio. At any given speed the power/load will be the same for both setups. The chart below shows the revolutions of each gear with close to equal final drive ratios.

buggy 13/48_____truggy 16/45

3.69___________ 2.81______spur/bell ratio
3.31___________ 4.30______diff ratio
12.22__________12.09_____ final drive ratio

146.56_________144.96____clutchbell revolutions (power)__1:1 for both truggy and buggy
39.72 __________51.6_____center diff revolutions_________3.69:1=buggy 2.81:1=truggy
39.72 __________51.6_____front/rear pinion revolutions____3.31:1=buggy 4.30:1=truggy
12_____________12_______front/rear diff revolutions______12.22:=buggy 12.09:1=truggy
12_____________12_______wheel revolutions (load)_______12.22:=buggy 12.09:1=truggy

But after looking into this, I do think the truggy gears accelerate faster. But I dont think its because the center drive line spins quicker making it easier for the motor to spin. This might affect it a little, but I think the biggest affect the truggy gears have is the center diff "diffs out" quicker when the front wheels lose traction (come off the ground during acceleration) Looking at the center diff revolutions on the chart above, if the front wheels came off the ground during acceleration, the center diff will "diff out" faster on the truggy gear setup because of the faster center driveline speed.

Because of this faster center diff action when the front tires unload, the truggy gears accelerate faster once your rolling. And also accelerate smoother at a dead stop. Does this make sense or am I way off?
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Old 06-06-2009, 08:39 AM   #34
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Originally Posted by spawn_x View Post
Sorry confused a bit, you are suggesting I use 48/13 or comparing it to 48/13? you are right I do have a 48/13 on the buggy now. Thanks my friend


you need the Ring and pinion gear's to do the conversion....you cant just slap on a clutch bell and spur and achieve the proper ratio of the truggy gearing.

if you are looking to replace worn parts...keep it stock....the stock ratio works very well to a point Drake and truhe felt no need for the new ratio's like a couple other top name cars out now....i personally run the truggy gearing and am liking it very much so.
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Old 06-06-2009, 10:25 AM   #35
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Originally Posted by Integra View Post
you need the Ring and pinion gear's to do the conversion....you cant just slap on a clutch bell and spur and achieve the proper ratio of the truggy gearing.

if you are looking to replace worn parts...keep it stock....the stock ratio works very well to a point Drake and truhe felt no need for the new ratio's like a couple other top name cars out now....i personally run the truggy gearing and am liking it very much so.
THANK you for clearing that up
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