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Old 12-18-2008, 04:48 PM   #1
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Default Suspension arm needs to be shimmed?

I'm going over my buggy for next season. Kyosho MP-6. The rear end is off to rebuild shocks/diff etc. I decided to change the rear plate for the other option plate to change rear toe. I'm pretty sure most buggies do it this way still. With that different rear piece the suspension arms can travel 0.040" from front to rear now. That's 1mm for you metric guys. I think I'll just put a shim in there to take up the slop and still leave it to pivot freely though.

Any reason why not?

And I'm thinking that if the inside of the arm can move that much I should consider which way to offset it becuase it has to be pivoting the outside end slightly to change the toe a very small amount.

Wanted an opinion since I've never run into this before. Usually I have to take a new arm and file it just a bit to get it to pivot freely.
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Old 12-18-2008, 05:40 PM   #2
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I race 1/10 gas truck and 1/10 ele truck (AE), I don't know much about 1/8.

These have a adjustment at the rear hubs of .030 front or rear from center. So .040 is a BIG adjustment in 1/10 scale!

Would seem to be a good idea to reduce that with a "shim" as you stated.

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Old 12-18-2008, 06:41 PM   #3
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Originally Posted by bjr48 View Post
I'm going over my buggy for next season. Kyosho MP-6. The rear end is off to rebuild shocks/diff etc. I decided to change the rear plate for the other option plate to change rear toe. I'm pretty sure most buggies do it this way still. With that different rear piece the suspension arms can travel 0.040" from front to rear now. That's 1mm for you metric guys. I think I'll just put a shim in there to take up the slop and still leave it to pivot freely though.

Any reason why not?

And I'm thinking that if the inside of the arm can move that much I should consider which way to offset it becuase it has to be pivoting the outside end slightly to change the toe a very small amount.

Wanted an opinion since I've never run into this before. Usually I have to take a new arm and file it just a bit to get it to pivot freely.
shims are good ...but dont get it to tight ...if you go search parts for a kyosho mp7 they have all types of shims ....i use kyosho shims to shim up my jammin wheel hexes...and yes if the arms are forward or back it will make a difference ...so just decide which direction you wanna go and go with it ....
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Old 12-19-2008, 04:21 AM   #4
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Well, a washer for a M4 screw is 0.035" thick so it was perfect. I noticed now that I am using captured hinge pins I must be carefull not to take up any of the slop by tightening it causing the toe plate or the antisquat plate to bend. A little trickier than e-clip shafts actually but so much more convenient. I put the washers in the back hoping that even if it is a fraction of a degree that I get less toe-in which is why I switched my rear plate out in the first place. Thanks for the comments.
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Old 12-19-2008, 04:43 AM   #5
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Use it to your advantage... see if the wheel base changes help the car out at all...

That said, ok I only race sedan electric 1/10th with a tamiya ta05 (never wheeled or wrenched a nitro car of any description) and some cars seem to work better or have no change the them with wear to the arms.

I think to some degree, Tamiya cars (and these may not be the only ones) do not suffer from poor handling when arms and other suspension parts wear, I havn't noticed it on mine and its 2 seasons old
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Old 12-19-2008, 07:17 AM   #6
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Or you could worse comes to worse put an O-ring at each end. I am not knowledgeable about that car so really IDK LOL.
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Old 12-19-2008, 12:31 PM   #7
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Use it to your advantage... see if the wheel base changes help the car out at all...

That said, ok I only race sedan electric 1/10th with a tamiya ta05 (never wheeled or wrenched a nitro car of any description) and some cars seem to work better or have no change the them with wear to the arms.

I think to some degree, Tamiya cars (and these may not be the only ones) do not suffer from poor handling when arms and other suspension parts wear, I havn't noticed it on mine and its 2 seasons old
there is definitely some truth to that ...you dont want it to tight ...but like if the steering rack and or front end is loose it will cause some handling probs ....the rear end not som much ...one thing that wil really help is to shim the wheel hexes ....if you have everything tight and the wheels wobble then shim em up ....helps out alot on stability .....
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Old 12-19-2008, 12:38 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by zixxer View Post
there is definitely some truth to that ...you dont want it to tight ...but like if the steering rack and or front end is loose it will cause some handling probs ....the rear end not som much ...one thing that wil really help is to shim the wheel hexes ....if you have everything tight and the wheels wobble then shim em up ....helps out alot on stability .....
DIdn't really think about the hexes. I put in new wheel hub bearings all around middle of last season and was disappointed that there was still some slop. A little is in other parts of the upper susp. but I bet my hexes could use some shims!
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Old 12-19-2008, 04:41 PM   #9
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DIdn't really think about the hexes. I put in new wheel hub bearings all around middle of last season and was disappointed that there was still some slop. A little is in other parts of the upper susp. but I bet my hexes could use some shims!
heres the kyosho part number

96644- 8x10 shim set

it comes with 10 each .1,.2,.3

its the single best thing you can do ....will make a huge difference in the slop factor
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Old 12-20-2008, 05:20 AM   #10
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heres the kyosho part number

96644- 8x10 shim set

it comes with 10 each .1,.2,.3

its the single best thing you can do ....will make a huge difference in the slop factor
Found 'em! I'll add them to my repair list
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