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Old 12-16-2008, 09:04 AM   #1
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Default Hyper 7 RTR will not Start. Please Help???

I got my Hyper 7 Black TQ RTR two weeks ago and I have not been able to start it. I'm getting extremely frustrated with it. I printed the break-in instructions and have followed them to the tee as well as slightly deviated in order to try to get it to run. The best it's done so far is run for about 3 seconds at a time but it will not stay running. I already broke the pull cord and replaced it with the backplate starter so now I use my drill. I've replaced the pllug two times and made sure my igniter is working. What am I missing? Is it a Hyper engine thing? I have noticed a lot of fuel shooting out of somewhere towards the back of the engine. I thought it was coming out of the air filter but I'm thinking it's coming from the head of the eninge somewhere.

Please help before I decide to sell off.

Thanks
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Old 12-16-2008, 09:41 AM   #2
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I would suggest you call Ofna technical support. But here are some things to try, and some things to look for:

make sure you are not flooding the engine when you prime it. As soon as you see the fuel enter the carb at the high speed needle. stop priming.

lossen the glow plug a little to make starting easier.

Turn the high speed neddle to 4.5 turns out from closed.

Turn in the low speed needle 1 full turn.

try a Hotter plug (MC59)

make sure you installed the new roto-start plate correctly, and that it is screwed down tight.
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Old 12-16-2008, 10:00 AM   #3
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I thought they were all tight but I will double check, thanks. Also that plug you mentioned, is it a long plug? The manual says it requires a long plug.

Thanks
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Old 12-16-2008, 10:05 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jr6rules View Post
I thought they were all tight but I will double check, thanks. Also that plug you mentioned, is it a long plug? The manual says it requires a long plug.

Thanks
I,ve been running Hyper engines for years. ALL Mcoy plugs work just fine as long as they are standard, not turbo. Regular running conditions Hypers like the MC8 best (medium) when its really cold or new engine, use the MC59 (hot)

If it's still not working right, send it to OFNA. There customer service is awesome, and they will either get it in good working condition, or send you a brand new one....good luck
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Old 12-16-2008, 10:10 AM   #5
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Sound like she just still tight. (metal to metal pinch)
Try leaning her out a lil just to get her started.
you can also try heating up the engine with a heat gun.
once you get her started, make sure you keep her running for the whole break-in process. you wanna run her for like a half hour straight. After that it'll be much easier to start...Picco engines are very tight..
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Old 12-16-2008, 10:52 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jpalessi View Post
Sound like she just still tight. (metal to metal pinch)
Try leaning her out a lil just to get her started.
you can also try heating up the engine with a heat gun.
once you get her started, make sure you keep her running for the whole break-in process. you wanna run her for like a half hour straight. After that it'll be much easier to start...Picco engines are very tight..

Hyper engines are made by Hong Noir. they are not Picco, but that is some good advise. My experience with Hyper engines has proven that they do not require heat guns, as I've never gotten one that I could not turn over by hand, but if yours is that tight, a heat gun will help. make sure the piston is at the bottom if you heat it, and don't heat it above 200 degrees
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Old 12-16-2008, 12:26 PM   #7
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Here's where you need to start at 3 turns out from closed on the high speed, flush at the low speed, and your idle to have about a 1mm opening, Mc Coy plug is fine. And make sure you dump all the unspent fuel that maybe in the pipe, you prob can't start it beacause it's girggling itself to death and stalling out, the other thing to do before you start it is to leave your ignightor in for about ten seconds before you start it so it can burn some of the fuel in the chamber and build some heat to fire, I use Byron's fuel for my engines and is very consistant, and don't touch the brass screw which is the mid if you have the get it back to flush as close as possible.
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