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Old 12-15-2008, 12:42 PM   #16
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Dynamite clutch shoes are cheaper than the Mugen.
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Old 12-15-2008, 12:44 PM   #17
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Dynamite clutch shoes are cheaper than the Mugen.
I was given a set of aluminum shoes that is why I wanted to try those.
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Old 12-15-2008, 01:03 PM   #18
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Actually you have it backwards...heavier engages earlier, lighter engages later.....tighter spring later, softer spring earlier !
correct, not taking the springs into consideration the heavier shoe will engage sooner as the centrifical force throws it out sooner. Lighter shoe is opposite that effect, it has less weight so it takes longer to get thrown out.
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Old 12-15-2008, 01:50 PM   #19
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The best combo we have found for the Xp is the 53 pipe and Dynamite Platinum #3 plug DYNP5603.
After you have your engine up to temp (3 to 5 minutes of running) pull in the pits and as quickly as possible remove the body, clear out the engine and let it come back to idle. As soon as it drops to idle pinch the fuel line about 1 in from the carb inlet. As soon as you pinch the line it should take 3 to 4 seconds ( I count one-thousand one, One thousand-two..) for it to really start to rev high. If it revs sooner the low end is too lean on bottom, if it takes much longer than 4 seconds it is too rich on bottom.
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Old 12-15-2008, 02:41 PM   #20
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Do what Troy said, he is dead on and has about a millon hours on that engine!!!
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Old 12-15-2008, 03:05 PM   #21
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Default .21XP

I have been running this motor for a little while now and it has been a mission with a good outcome, where do I start, first thing is do not follow the instructions manual. the manual says to set the middle range neddle flush with the carb body for brake-in and that's where all the nigtmares started.
Setting the middle needle flush with the carb makes this motor impossible to run and tune the iddle and low speed rpms.

I started runing this motor with a os 2050 pipe and had the same problems, I felt the bottom end was not there but it made the car more smoth (mbx6).
I just recently started using a jp-2 pipe and I can feel a difference, It improved the motor all the way around. Im still getting a dynamite 053 pipe for it. Im running stock aluminum shoes with 1.0 springs.

going back to all the nightmares I first had with this motor and almost giving up on it because I could not get the low speed tune, I figure out that turning in the middle speed was the solution, I ended up with the mid range niddle in the original position it was shipped in about a 1.5 turns in from flush position and then worked in the low speed needle. I now have the motor running with a jp-2 pipe, mc59 plug, motor tuned with temps in the 230s and im really happy with the motor, I don't know the turns I have in the carb now but I will find out tonight and post.
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Old 12-15-2008, 03:16 PM   #22
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Ive noticed with my engine that when you turn the idle screw it has an effect on your bottom end. So you kinda got to work the 2 together till you get it right.
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Old 12-15-2008, 08:04 PM   #23
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Ohhh and be sure and try the IDRC 7mm carb insert. More power and better run time.
Be sure and be patient and go easy on the needles, it seems as one hour on the XP carb is about equal to 2 or 3 hrs on other carbs.
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Old 12-15-2008, 09:20 PM   #24
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Thank you guys for all of your help. I am gonna go ahead and order that 053 pipe tonight as well try the aluminum clutch shoes that I have. Will any 1.1 spring fit, because hot bodies only carries the stock ones that come with the car and those are 1.0. As for the 7mm restrictor will that help the bottom end?
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Old 12-16-2008, 04:41 AM   #25
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That would be one of the first items to address. Running the 7mm venturi will greatly improve your throttle response on the bottom. Another thing you might want to do, instead of running 1.1 springs run 1.0 on your aluminum shoes. Drill a 1 or 1.5 mm hole in the thick end of the shoe. This will give you more stall and make the bottom more responsive. 1.1 springs are difficult to work with.
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Old 12-16-2008, 11:55 AM   #26
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Default .21xp needle settings

here are my carb settings
hi spd =1 3/4 turn from close
mid= 2 turns from flush or almost 3 hours from closed
low= 1 turn plus 3hrs

So far this is the best result I have obtained from this motor.
this settings are with 30% nitro juice (similar to sidewinder in my opinion),
jp-2 pipe, mc-59 plug, spare head shim.
I will post differences with the 053 dyn pipe which I think will be better perf.
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Old 12-16-2008, 05:25 PM   #27
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Lets clear this up quik, the newer xp version is way different than the the old dynamite!! The new version comes with the old instructions, these are wrong, things may have changed since i purchased mine Best thing to do with these engine is the pinch method, Hot race run , bring it in and rev it up, then pinch feul line now!! 2-3 -4 seconds sould die soon slow down at least if not it is way off, i notice the xp seems to run on and on before it dies The mid needle is not flush on the xp it goes in at least 1.5 mm in from flush, check temps often do not let it get too hott, it likes to run at 265.3 degress, hope this helps, be patient, get it clse before you destroy a great engine!! LTR BROS!!
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Old 12-23-2008, 10:40 AM   #28
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Well guys I was able to test my car this weekend and I did the thing s you guys said here, and my bottom end improved noticeably it is still no v-spec when it come to torque but I am pretty satisfied with it. The modifications I made to it are I switched pipes to the dynamite platinum 053 pipe, dynamite #3 plug, as well as I inserted a 7.5mm restrictor, the motor did not come with a 7mm one, it had a 8.5 mm in there, I also put the mugen aluminum clutch shoes on. I did the pinch test and the motor began to rev at about 7 seconds so I leaned the bottom end now and I can't even lsn needle in anymore. I temped it and it is running at about 240 Fahrenheit. I am gonna try dropping the clutch bell 2 teeth this weekend and see what that does but the motor feels pretty good right now, it is super smooth, I just wish the motor had a bit more torque but if it aint broke don't fix it right.
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Old 12-23-2008, 01:25 PM   #29
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Hey guys here is something i found on another borad on how to set the middle needle something the dealers don't tell you, Now on my axial 28 it was running great but not as good as i thought it should and after setting in this way it really screams great bottom end and great top end worth a try guys i think you will be happy.

a just your mid to stock setting then take off the high needle housing and look inside, now on the mid needle there are four holes around the needle one of those holes should be in line with the high needle ( now it dont have to be right in line with the high needle but in that area at stock setting ) put your high needle house back on , I would then retune after this it was well worth it to me and also made tuning eazyer if the mid is not set right you wouldn't get a good tune, I then sealed off my mid needle after i found that were it was set after doing this was just right, one other thing is if you want to play with this needle mark where your mid needle is set after this as the a justments on the mid is done at a 1/4 turn at a time and also the mark gives you something to check to make sure the needle isn't moving.


And predator if you played with the mid like you said give this a try that engine should run great then give me a hell yea.
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Old 12-23-2008, 11:17 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ridgerunner1 View Post
Hey guys here is something i found on another borad on how to set the middle needle something the dealers don't tell you, Now on my axial 28 it was running great but not as good as i thought it should and after setting in this way it really screams great bottom end and great top end worth a try guys i think you will be happy.

a just your mid to stock setting then take off the high needle housing and look inside, now on the mid needle there are four holes around the needle one of those holes should be in line with the high needle ( now it dont have to be right in line with the high needle but in that area at stock setting ) put your high needle house back on , I would then retune after this it was well worth it to me and also made tuning eazyer if the mid is not set right you wouldn't get a good tune, I then sealed off my mid needle after i found that were it was set after doing this was just right, one other thing is if you want to play with this needle mark where your mid needle is set after this as the a justments on the mid is done at a 1/4 turn at a time and also the mark gives you something to check to make sure the needle isn't moving.


And predator if you played with the mid like you said give this a try that engine should run great then give me a hell yea.
If the track is open this weekend, I will definitely try that. What damage could be done? How do you take of the hsn? Has anyone else done this?
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