.21 GRP Fuel White Flakes Frt Bearing? Engine Question
12-12-2008, 12:45 PM
#1
.21 GRP Fuel White Flakes Frt Bearing? Engine Question
I tore my .21 GRP Non Tuned down to give it a 2 gallon inspection and put a front ceramic bearing in the front. After I heated it up in the oven and popped the front bearing out and started to inspect everything and clean it I noticed alot of white flakes in the block.
I assume its residual build up from the fuel but wanted to ask everyone?
There also seems to be alot of carbon build up on the exhaust port and the top of the piston. Is this normal? Also to reinstall the front bearing I put the new one in the freezer but do I heat the case up at all?
What about removing the inner bearing seal I have heard people doing it both ways
I heated it up to 310F
I run Byrons Gen 2 30%
I run my engines a TAD rich not overly rich
I assume its residual build up from the fuel but wanted to ask everyone?
There also seems to be alot of carbon build up on the exhaust port and the top of the piston. Is this normal? Also to reinstall the front bearing I put the new one in the freezer but do I heat the case up at all?
What about removing the inner bearing seal I have heard people doing it both ways
I heated it up to 310F
I run Byrons Gen 2 30%
I run my engines a TAD rich not overly rich
12-12-2008, 12:50 PM
#2
I normally heat the case back up when putting a bearing back in. this allows me to make sure the bearing goes in straight.
12-12-2008, 12:59 PM
#3
seal
What about removing the inside bearing seal? I have got 50/50 answers?
12-12-2008, 01:09 PM
#4
IMO, thats up to you. I use the bearing how it comes to me from the manufacturer. If it has the seal, I leave, if it doesn't then I don't use it.
Also, as for the flakes, I have never had flakes from fuel before, so as a precaution, I would check the inside of your case to make sure its not the source of the flakes.
Also, as for the flakes, I have never had flakes from fuel before, so as a precaution, I would check the inside of your case to make sure its not the source of the flakes.
12-12-2008, 01:13 PM
#5
flakes
IMO, thats up to you. I use the bearing how it comes to me from the manufacturer. If it has the seal, I leave, if it doesn't then I don't use it.
Also, as for the flakes, I have never had flakes from fuel before, so as a precaution, I would check the inside of your case to make sure its not the source of the flakes.
Also, as for the flakes, I have never had flakes from fuel before, so as a precaution, I would check the inside of your case to make sure its not the source of the flakes.
No they are not metal shavings white waxy flakes
12-12-2008, 01:14 PM
#6
fuel
I just talked to a guy that says he thinks its from the fuel hes not a big Byrons fan
12-12-2008, 01:14 PM
#7
you got me, I have never had anything like that in my engines...
12-12-2008, 01:33 PM
#8
wrist pin clips
Does any one have a trick for install the wrist pin clips?
12-12-2008, 02:05 PM
#9
Do it in an Area that if it goes FLYING....you might have a chance of recovering it.....and use the best pair to needle nose you got....or even a Good pair of the wifey's tweezer's....just careful she dosent catch you.
12-12-2008, 02:40 PM
#10
I have head the best luck with tweezers while working with wrist pin clips. As far as the waxy chips, I dont have the slightest clue. You have any pics? Either way check everything out real close, make sure nothing is rubbing or grinding or any bearings are shot. Clean the case real good, re lube the internals with after run and reassemble.
12-12-2008, 03:04 PM
#11
flakes
not chips real small white waxy type flakes
12-12-2008, 05:16 PM
#12
12-12-2008, 05:27 PM
#13
afterrun
I use monkey snot about 3 drops top of head when I am done and yes I run it dry when I am done?
12-13-2008, 10:12 PM
#14
Can you take some pictures of the flakes and post on here? If your camera has "macro" function, make sure it's turned on for close up shots.
To clean the carbon build up off, best thing I found is to use Mothers brand mag & aluminum polish onto a clean soft towell (soft = no hard ca glue clumps or stuff like that). Then lightly wipe the top of the piston until clean and don't round the edges of the piston.....then clean well with motor spray. You can do this for the button and inside/top of the sleeve also. I don't run my engines dry and have chosen not to for years. Most fuels this is OK with, some it's not. If your bearings had some rust or corrosion on it, then you should run the engine dry. When you run it dry at the end of the day, you're just exposing the engine to a short period of time when it's lean to extremely lean as it runs out of fuel.
To clean the carbon build up off, best thing I found is to use Mothers brand mag & aluminum polish onto a clean soft towell (soft = no hard ca glue clumps or stuff like that). Then lightly wipe the top of the piston until clean and don't round the edges of the piston.....then clean well with motor spray. You can do this for the button and inside/top of the sleeve also. I don't run my engines dry and have chosen not to for years. Most fuels this is OK with, some it's not. If your bearings had some rust or corrosion on it, then you should run the engine dry. When you run it dry at the end of the day, you're just exposing the engine to a short period of time when it's lean to extremely lean as it runs out of fuel.
12-14-2008, 06:53 PM
#15
all together
For those interested in the white flake issue I think I have it figured out. I replicated my cleaning process and the small white flakes seem to be a residual from the home brew cleaner I mixed and used. Everything in the engine looked good I cleaned all of the carbon build. I raced the last 2 days and it ran great. I ran Mr Ninja's prior to the GRP and they seem identical. I know there has been alot of talk about the similarities.
Thanks For everyones input
Thanks For everyones input
Can you take some pictures of the flakes and post on here? If your camera has "macro" function, make sure it's turned on for close up shots.
To clean the carbon build up off, best thing I found is to use Mothers brand mag & aluminum polish onto a clean soft towell (soft = no hard ca glue clumps or stuff like that). Then lightly wipe the top of the piston until clean and don't round the edges of the piston.....then clean well with motor spray. You can do this for the button and inside/top of the sleeve also. I don't run my engines dry and have chosen not to for years. Most fuels this is OK with, some it's not. If your bearings had some rust or corrosion on it, then you should run the engine dry. When you run it dry at the end of the day, you're just exposing the engine to a short period of time when it's lean to extremely lean as it runs out of fuel.
To clean the carbon build up off, best thing I found is to use Mothers brand mag & aluminum polish onto a clean soft towell (soft = no hard ca glue clumps or stuff like that). Then lightly wipe the top of the piston until clean and don't round the edges of the piston.....then clean well with motor spray. You can do this for the button and inside/top of the sleeve also. I don't run my engines dry and have chosen not to for years. Most fuels this is OK with, some it's not. If your bearings had some rust or corrosion on it, then you should run the engine dry. When you run it dry at the end of the day, you're just exposing the engine to a short period of time when it's lean to extremely lean as it runs out of fuel.