R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Nitro Off-Road

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 12-12-2008, 12:45 PM   #1
Tech Addict
 
robbdny's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 602
Trader Rating: 19 (95%+)
Default .21 GRP Fuel White Flakes Frt Bearing? Engine Question

I tore my .21 GRP Non Tuned down to give it a 2 gallon inspection and put a front ceramic bearing in the front. After I heated it up in the oven and popped the front bearing out and started to inspect everything and clean it I noticed alot of white flakes in the block.

I assume its residual build up from the fuel but wanted to ask everyone?

There also seems to be alot of carbon build up on the exhaust port and the top of the piston. Is this normal? Also to reinstall the front bearing I put the new one in the freezer but do I heat the case up at all?

What about removing the inner bearing seal I have heard people doing it both ways

I heated it up to 310F
I run Byrons Gen 2 30%
I run my engines a TAD rich not overly rich
robbdny is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-12-2008, 12:50 PM   #2
Tech Regular
 
free2day77's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Posts: 370
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

I normally heat the case back up when putting a bearing back in. this allows me to make sure the bearing goes in straight.
__________________
Sponsors:
Hotbodies
Trinity
Answer RC USA
Fastlane Graphix
free2day77 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-12-2008, 12:59 PM   #3
Tech Addict
 
robbdny's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 602
Trader Rating: 19 (95%+)
Default seal

What about removing the inside bearing seal? I have got 50/50 answers?
robbdny is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-12-2008, 01:09 PM   #4
Tech Regular
 
free2day77's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Posts: 370
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

IMO, thats up to you. I use the bearing how it comes to me from the manufacturer. If it has the seal, I leave, if it doesn't then I don't use it.

Also, as for the flakes, I have never had flakes from fuel before, so as a precaution, I would check the inside of your case to make sure its not the source of the flakes.
__________________
Sponsors:
Hotbodies
Trinity
Answer RC USA
Fastlane Graphix
free2day77 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-12-2008, 01:13 PM   #5
Tech Addict
 
robbdny's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 602
Trader Rating: 19 (95%+)
Default flakes

Quote:
Originally Posted by free2day77 View Post
IMO, thats up to you. I use the bearing how it comes to me from the manufacturer. If it has the seal, I leave, if it doesn't then I don't use it.

Also, as for the flakes, I have never had flakes from fuel before, so as a precaution, I would check the inside of your case to make sure its not the source of the flakes.

No they are not metal shavings white waxy flakes
robbdny is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-12-2008, 01:14 PM   #6
Tech Addict
 
robbdny's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 602
Trader Rating: 19 (95%+)
Default fuel

I just talked to a guy that says he thinks its from the fuel hes not a big Byrons fan
robbdny is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-12-2008, 01:14 PM   #7
Tech Regular
 
free2day77's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Posts: 370
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

you got me, I have never had anything like that in my engines...
__________________
Sponsors:
Hotbodies
Trinity
Answer RC USA
Fastlane Graphix
free2day77 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-12-2008, 01:33 PM   #8
Tech Addict
 
robbdny's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 602
Trader Rating: 19 (95%+)
Default wrist pin clips

Does any one have a trick for install the wrist pin clips?
robbdny is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-12-2008, 02:05 PM   #9
Tech Lord
 
Integra's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Posts: 12,482
Trader Rating: 8 (100%+)
Send a message via MSN to Integra
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by robbdny View Post
Does any one have a trick for install the wrist pin clips?


Do it in an Area that if it goes FLYING....you might have a chance of recovering it.....and use the best pair to needle nose you got....or even a Good pair of the wifey's tweezer's....just careful she dosent catch you.
__________________
TNS Driver - Radio Post - Blue Groove Apparel - Team Panther - Hitec - Losi - W.E.D. Paint - Clockwork Fuel - Competition Heat - SUMO Racing - Tekin - Team Terribles - M2C Racing - Matrix Concepts - Kal Gard - BuKu Power - DE Racing -
Integra is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-12-2008, 02:40 PM   #10
Tech Master
 
jpz_67's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Texas.
Posts: 1,787
Trader Rating: 56 (100%+)
Default

I have head the best luck with tweezers while working with wrist pin clips. As far as the waxy chips, I dont have the slightest clue. You have any pics? Either way check everything out real close, make sure nothing is rubbing or grinding or any bearings are shot. Clean the case real good, re lube the internals with after run and reassemble.
__________________
Agama A215, Futaba, Nitro Pro Fuel, Proline tires, Triton Engines, Savox.
jpz_67 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-12-2008, 03:04 PM   #11
Tech Addict
 
robbdny's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 602
Trader Rating: 19 (95%+)
Default flakes

not chips real small white waxy type flakes
robbdny is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-12-2008, 05:16 PM   #12
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Posts: 329
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by robbdny View Post
not chips real small white waxy type flakes
Sounds like aluminum corrosion by product. What kind of afterrun oil do you use and do you completly flush out the engine before you end you day?
jpas is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-12-2008, 05:27 PM   #13
Tech Addict
 
robbdny's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 602
Trader Rating: 19 (95%+)
Default afterrun

I use monkey snot about 3 drops top of head when I am done and yes I run it dry when I am done?
robbdny is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-13-2008, 10:12 PM   #14
Tech Addict
 
Jesse Robbers's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Cincinnati, OH
Posts: 600
Send a message via AIM to Jesse Robbers
Default

Can you take some pictures of the flakes and post on here? If your camera has "macro" function, make sure it's turned on for close up shots.

To clean the carbon build up off, best thing I found is to use Mothers brand mag & aluminum polish onto a clean soft towell (soft = no hard ca glue clumps or stuff like that). Then lightly wipe the top of the piston until clean and don't round the edges of the piston.....then clean well with motor spray. You can do this for the button and inside/top of the sleeve also. I don't run my engines dry and have chosen not to for years. Most fuels this is OK with, some it's not. If your bearings had some rust or corrosion on it, then you should run the engine dry. When you run it dry at the end of the day, you're just exposing the engine to a short period of time when it's lean to extremely lean as it runs out of fuel.
__________________
Sponsored by: O.S. Speed, KO Propo, Sidewinder, Tekin, Thunder Power, Lunsford, Skipgear.com, Fioroni, Avid R/C, GMK Supply, Competition Heat, Dialed Inc., LiveRC.com, DE Racing, CIG2O, ANDROID Nitro Runtime Calculator App
Jesse Robbers is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-14-2008, 06:53 PM   #15
Tech Addict
 
robbdny's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 602
Trader Rating: 19 (95%+)
Default all together

For those interested in the white flake issue I think I have it figured out. I replicated my cleaning process and the small white flakes seem to be a residual from the home brew cleaner I mixed and used. Everything in the engine looked good I cleaned all of the carbon build. I raced the last 2 days and it ran great. I ran Mr Ninja's prior to the GRP and they seem identical. I know there has been alot of talk about the similarities.

Thanks For everyones input




Quote:
Originally Posted by Jesse Robbers View Post
Can you take some pictures of the flakes and post on here? If your camera has "macro" function, make sure it's turned on for close up shots.

To clean the carbon build up off, best thing I found is to use Mothers brand mag & aluminum polish onto a clean soft towell (soft = no hard ca glue clumps or stuff like that). Then lightly wipe the top of the piston until clean and don't round the edges of the piston.....then clean well with motor spray. You can do this for the button and inside/top of the sleeve also. I don't run my engines dry and have chosen not to for years. Most fuels this is OK with, some it's not. If your bearings had some rust or corrosion on it, then you should run the engine dry. When you run it dry at the end of the day, you're just exposing the engine to a short period of time when it's lean to extremely lean as it runs out of fuel.
robbdny is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 01:30 AM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net