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Old 12-03-2008, 03:24 PM   #16
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Nevermind. I didn't read good
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Old 12-03-2008, 03:25 PM   #17
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I would think a reverse drill bit should work, if not drill it out and re tap... There is lots of room for a bit larger hole in the case its deffinatly not worth buying a new case over IMO...
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Old 12-03-2008, 03:27 PM   #18
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a reverse bit may work... black and decker makes a small one and it is sold at the home depot i know for sure.. not sure where else it is sold though
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Old 12-03-2008, 03:28 PM   #19
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I had this happen once and I used the opposite side of a hardened drill bit. I put a small dot of metal to metal epoxy 5min and let it set over night. The next morning I clamped a set of vise grips and turned it real slow. Believe it or not it worked. I was very careful not to get any epoxy near the block so it did not bond with the female threads. It was a pain but it did work. Just food for thought. Oh yeah I drilled a small pilot hole for the drill bit to fit in about 1/16 to 1/8 in. Let the epoxy set over night very important. I could not locate an easy out small enough to fit. Hope I was helpful.
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Old 12-03-2008, 03:41 PM   #20
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Ok I talked to nova and they want me to send it in which is good news for me cuz I thought for sure they wouldn't do anything. I'm gonna send it in and see if they will fix it for me. If they won't I will try some of the suggested methods. thanks for all the replies guys.
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Old 12-03-2008, 03:41 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jaz240 View Post
Take out the 3 good screws, then crack the head off. It will snap the last screw and then you can get it out. Also try this, its a little extream but it will work. Use a dremel to cut the entire colling head off as close to the screws as possible. You should then be able to notch the stripped screw and remove it. Then weld the cooling head back together. As long as it still has good air flow, it will still work just fine
Dang dude! Cut the head off with a dremel!!!! I wouldnt let you touch my engine with a rubber eraser.

Just kidding man. I know nothing about your craftsmanship. But he broke a backplate screw off, not a head screw.

JAMMINKRAZY: Your best bet is to drill it. If you can find a really sharp and hard bit that is smaller than the inside diameter of the threads in the case you will be in good shape. Make sure you drill it as straight as you can, your best bet is clamp it in a drill press. Turn the bit at high speed and apply some kind of lubricant. Take your time and dont put a lot of pressure on the bit, you will get yourself in more trouble. When you get the screw drilled out you can clean up the threads with a bottom tap. Good Luck!!!
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Old 12-03-2008, 05:47 PM   #22
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jim and chris will take care of it for ya if they cant , then i will ask jim to send a new block and switch out the guts for ya myself i am cool like that . just pay shipping and i will be happy to do it for ya
i support nova engines incase you didn't notice

it is a very difficult screw to get out , the epoxy method should work pretty good if trying to fix it yourself . i have had people try to take my engines apart , done the same thing and had em run it that way with no issues whatsoever (no sealant either) . i never use any sealant on novarossi engines , i just replace the orings if something is any kind of leaky

happy motorin' ,
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Old 12-03-2008, 05:50 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NCWC View Post
Dang dude! Cut the head off with a dremel!!!! I wouldnt let you touch my engine with a rubber eraser.

Just kidding man. I know nothing about your craftsmanship. But he broke a backplate screw off, not a head screw.

JAMMINKRAZY: Your best bet is to drill it. If you can find a really sharp and hard bit that is smaller than the inside diameter of the threads in the case you will be in good shape. Make sure you drill it as straight as you can, your best bet is clamp it in a drill press. Turn the bit at high speed and apply some kind of lubricant. Take your time and dont put a lot of pressure on the bit, you will get yourself in more trouble. When you get the screw drilled out you can clean up the threads with a bottom tap. Good Luck!!!
I know that's why I changed my post to nevermind, LOL. There was a similar thread with a stripped cooling head screw, and I thought this was it. My Bad

But my methods will work as a last resort for cooling head screws
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Old 12-03-2008, 06:13 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by houston View Post
jim and chris will take care of it for ya if they cant , then i will ask jim to send a new block and switch out the guts for ya myself i am cool like that . just pay shipping and i will be happy to do it for ya
i support nova engines incase you didn't notice

it is a very difficult screw to get out , the epoxy method should work pretty good if trying to fix it yourself . i have had people try to take my engines apart , done the same thing and had em run it that way with no issues whatsoever (no sealant either) . i never use any sealant on novarossi engines , i just replace the orings if something is any kind of leaky

happy motorin' ,
monty
I actually got an offer from a buddy who works at a machine shop to try to get it out for me. If he can't get it out I will let you know. Thanks so much
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Old 12-03-2008, 06:37 PM   #25
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no prob bro
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Old 12-04-2008, 05:52 AM   #26
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If this helps, on all the engines I've had with a stuck head screw. I've always had great luck (Knock on wood) drilling the head off. Then removing the head and grabbing the remaining screw with pliers and removing it.

This occurs when someone tightens one screw down then the others, and not seating them in a cross pattern.

Once you get the head off the screw and the cooling head off, that will relieve the pressure on the screw and it will come right out.

Hope this helps.
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Old 12-10-2008, 03:01 AM   #27
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If you go to Sears, Craftsman has a great small screw extractor set. The bits have a drill on one end and the extractor on the other. The set costs like $20 but with Xmas I bet you'd find it on sale cheaper. Great set of bits to have!

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