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Old 12-02-2008, 07:10 PM   #16
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I use small dykes on the last thread beforethe shaft goes smooth works better than any thing I have purchased in the past. My shock ends when built to the correct length have a little thread showing so lucky me. The Tamiya pliers were the biggest wast & the ones pictured above worked mostly good for a while then went in the junk drawer after a bit. Believe it or not I used that little bronze disk for many years with only slight modification & loved the end result just not the pain balance job with the pliers.BTW to correctly remove the disc you flip/pivot it up using the rod end as a fulcrum & it spreads it apart & pre sets it for the next shaft.

WOW I just went back & looked at the price of the disc. Holy crap they were like $1.50 back in the 1/10 scale days & every shop sold them so no shipping fee. Man no wonder you sent it back.
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Old 12-02-2008, 10:00 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by Duster_360 View Post
I've been using wire cutters and carefully grabbing the shaft right at the shoulder above where threads quit - yes, leaves a mark, no, its never caused a prob since seals never move across that part of the shaft. Built plenty that way.

If I have to pull a shock apart I'll use a fine file and remove that mark so it doesn't harm seals when I put it back together. Shafts are pretty hard and you don't leave that much of a mark anyway.

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Old 12-02-2008, 10:38 PM   #18
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+3. That's how the instructions in my first Kit showed me to do it, and I've been using that method ever since, never had any problems
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Old 12-02-2008, 10:53 PM   #19
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lol, I just use regular pliers, never have left a scratch yet.
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Old 12-03-2008, 09:25 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by butch man View Post
I use small dykes on the last thread beforethe shaft goes smooth works better than any thing I have purchased in the past. My shock ends when built to the correct length have a little thread showing so lucky me. The Tamiya pliers were the biggest wast & the ones pictured above worked mostly good for a while then went in the junk drawer after a bit. Believe it or not I used that little bronze disk for many years with only slight modification & loved the end result just not the pain balance job with the pliers.BTW to correctly remove the disc you flip/pivot it up using the rod end as a fulcrum & it spreads it apart & pre sets it for the next shaft.

WOW I just went back & looked at the price of the disc. Holy crap they were like $1.50 back in the 1/10 scale days & every shop sold them so no shipping fee. Man no wonder you sent it back.
Didn't come with instructions so I didn't know that resetting the disc was to be expected. But in my case no matter how &*^% hard I compressed the disk it would not contact the shaft enough to hold it with 3mm shock shafts so I sent the thing back. It came close to touching the shaft but didn't even begin to grab. ?
I'll probably give the pliers a try. If they don't work for me or don't last long I'll go the home made route and make a better disc tool on my own or make my own brass or nylon liners to expoxy to a set of pliers or something that I can replace over and over pretty much for free. I definately want some kind of soft clamping device becuase I think that is what will work best.
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