Chris__RC

iTrader: (7)

I am going to get a 8ight 1.0 roller very soon. It is the RTR verison but it is a killer deal that I cant pass up. It is a 8ight RTR roller, Airtronics 94358 throttle Servo, Futaba S9351 Steering Servo, Mach 427 engine, the body has a $40 cover on it (forgot what it is called), JP-3 pipe, and a set of Panther race tires and XTM bash tires for $250+shipping. I know I am not getting ripped off as I have dealt with him before.

But my main question is that I wanted to know the pros and cons of the 8ight. I have had a nitro with the Losi xxx-nt but recently went back to electric with a xxx-t now want to get back into nitro!!! As you can see I am a Losi fan. I know I would spend more money in the end by getting the RTR version but I dont want to wait 6 months to save up $600 to get everything seperate which will be way over $500. Im bascially looking for something that will be easy to drive as I have never had a 1/8 or 4wd car before but when I get better the buggy wont hold me back. I will be racing at thunder alley in beaumont, CA.

On a side note: What clutch shoes/springs is everyone running? Bascially I want the longest lasting ones I can get.

thanks!

Dude C.

iTrader: (7)

Chris
I've drove a 1.0 losi for the past year 1/2, and it is good. 1 thing you'll notice is that it is nimble and quick to your radio imput. Great buggy for the buck. Everybody that has 1 is tring to sell it to invest in a 2.0. Thats why you see them cheap. But hey, a good buy for a great buggy is worth it. Here are some CON's for ya.

LOCK TIGHT the little, dinky screw that hold the shock pistons on. I cant stress that enough.

Dremil out the back of the body a little and allow for chassis flex or you'll be paintin a new body real soon.

Watch the center front drive shaft for excesive wear on the pins.

2 carbon shoes and 2 aluminum, silver and gold springs.

Diff fluid F-5000 C-7000 R-2000

These are just a few, I'm sure there will be other racers to give their thoughts on your purchase. Good luck and have fun.

losi_racer

iTrader: (25)

do you know if the new 2.0 has the problem with the body rubbin with the chassis flex? if so can u do a pic and say where to cut?


btw the losi 8ight is great. it was my first buggy when i started racing. im sticking with the 8ight but im buyin the new 2.0. i bought my first 8ight used so i wanna get one new. i had ZERO problems with the buggy. i never broke one part on it since i started racing and i race every saturday and i started in like may 08? make sure u set the epa on the servos and you shouldnt have a problem with electronics.

only thing i had a small issue with was with the shock piston. RED locktite that screw like the guy above me said. and let it dry b4 fillin the shock with fluid.make sure u shim ur clutch bell right. Youll be that happiest racer out there

cjtamu

iTrader: (11)

I don't use red Loctite on anything b/c it's a real beotch to get off, but I use a good amount of blue on that little shock piston screw and let it cure before I install.

I run the KHZ 7075 Al shoes with gold and green springs. Silver and gold is a little snappy for my taste on most tracks, I like a clutch that picks up off the bottom. The 8ight clutch is really tunable, find something that works for you. Lots of people running the Dynamite Max Life shoes but I haven't tried them.

Dude C. is talking about ovalling the mounting holes on the body, it should fit loosely. I f'd up a new body a couple months ago when I forgot to do that, LOL.

Loctite the set screw for the front center CVD and use a heat shrink condom. It will work loose no matter what you do, so check it frequently. I think the 8ight 2.0 front CVD will work there, it's a little thicker, harder pins, and I think they solved the set screw issue.

Only thing I really don't like on the 8ight are the stock F&R toe block system. The plastic caps that hold the hinge pins in place can break. I replaced with the M2C front and rear, which allows for easy adjustment of toe and antisquat/antidive. Not necessary, but get some of the spare plastic caps if you run the stock setup. Rear outer hinge pins can be a little soft if you're a big air guy. I'm not so I'm still running the stockers. But, you can replace with the M2C hardened pins or the pins from the 2.0. Either way you'll have to drill the hole in the arms a little.

Go to the Losi site and download the linkage addendum and set your linkage up exactly like it says. When it says get the throttle side as straight as possible, you want it as straight as possible at full throttle also.

Sounds like you're getting a deal. Not sure what the difference is b/w the RTR and the kit, but as you bend/break stuff you can upgrade. One of the best handling 1/8 I've ever driven. I'm in no rush to get a 2.0 'cause my 1.0 is still a lot better than it's driver, ha ha ha.

Oh yeah. Start with the Truhe setup and make adjustments from there to suit your track.

Integra

iTrader: (8)

the 2.0 body come's pre cut already with the elongated rear hole for flex.

Chris__RC

iTrader: (7)

Any other advice?

ABURTON

iTrader: (24)

Chris, I'm flying in to Ontario Thursday for practice and the Race at thunder alley(Toys for tots). Come out and it would be cool to meet ya. You can check out our cars and ask questions! Adam Drake, Mike Truhe, and most of the west coast Team will be there

My email is [email protected] if ya ever have any questions.

KendallWelch

Compared to my Kyosho now, I thought the Losi didn't have much steering. I was always struggling with the handling, people could out-turn me everywhere and I wasn't sure why. Make sure your servo-saver is tight enough to not cause handling issues. I would recommend getting some "condoms" so the center drive pins do not come out. Get the 3-3 rear toe plate. I ran the King Heads hard clutch shoes and the regular losi carbon ones. Like others have said, loctite the shock shaft screw, that lost me a race last year...

Hope that helps,
Kendall

Chris__RC

iTrader: (7)

ABURTON, Check your email inbox.

ABURTON

iTrader: (24)

one often overlooked reason for the steering is either the servo saver or the hingepins(after time) wear small slots where the axle connects(the pin) to the bone and when you turn it often goes back to the groove and rides there. This takes from the steering. The early versions had softer material and this happened. A quick flip putting them on opposite sides and you were good to go again.

The 2.0 uses much harder metal and this has yet to happen with mine.

Chill_Will

iTrader: (33)

Another thing is the RTR come with plastic shock caps. You might want to replace them with the alunimum ones. Also check and see if your local track will let you run the 427. Its a .26 motor and some tracks won't allow anything over a .21 on a 8th scale buggy.

vladconnery

iTrader: (35)

Chris thats a great deal on a losi. RTR's usually don't come with a flex chasis keep your eye out on ebay for a flex chasis and other parts. You can pick up a new chasis for less than $40 bucks. The 1.0's are alive and well still kicking but and taking names. All of the later models high end buggys are still worth having. They didn't exactly reinvent the wheel with the newer models. Have fun and take auburton up on his offer. Nothing like some hands on tips from some good guys.

Chris__RC

iTrader: (7)

I will run in the lowest class they have (by the results it looks like sportsman) and the Mach 427 is a RTR engine so I doubt they will pay much attention to it.

Chris__RC

iTrader: (7)

How is that RB S3 in your 8ight?

vladconnery

iTrader: (35)

It's a great engine espicially for a rook they are easy to tune and last forever. If I had it to do over again I would spend a couple extra dollars and get an S5.

Or if you want to get the most bang for your buck get the GO 7 port. less than an S5 but will keep up or out run practically anything. They are a little more temper mental than a RB but a good solid motor.

If this is your first engine I would choose the RB it allows for a larger learning curve than any other engine.