Wells8293

Will that work with the Storm CL-1

BrettL

iTrader: (27)

Yes. The Storm CL1 and CL1 Advanced Plus are the same basic design. Differences might include aluminum instead of plastic in chassis braces and hinge pin holders. Look at your chassis braces. If they're plastic, it was probably a rtr rather than a kit. If aluminum, it was probably an Advanced or Advanced Plus. Even better, look at the chassis itself. If its smooth on top without any milled out spots, it's a rtr. There were 4 models if I'm not mistaken, rtr, CL1, CL1 Advanced, and CL1 Advanvanced Plus.

Even if you buy a roller, it only gives you 1 spare of each part. I wouldn't discourage you if you can get a good deal on it. I really like mine and it's really tough.

If you can find them, stock up on the inserts that the hinge pins fit into. Fortunately, many top brands share this design and I'm sure one ore more brands would work.

I'm a really lousy driver on the track, not joking. In all the dozens and dozens of tumbles, cartwheels, and straigh up gnarly crashes, I've experienced only 2 breaks.
#1 If you read through this entire thread, you'll see some mention of the rear rear lower hinge pin holder flexing enough in a severe crash to let the hinge pin pop out. If you're a new driver, this is good because it prevents something more expensive from breaking. It's only happened once to me and it just ruined the plastic insert. Experienced racers will buy the aluminum hinge pin holder that allows no flex. This wasn't a defect, it was a compromise to let this plastic part flex and prevent bending of hinge pins and breakage of gearcases and other part that are more expensive and time consuming to fix.
#2 The top rear hinge holder on the front gearbox is the other plastic compromise. I finally cracked one just last week. This is DEFINITELY a part to look for.

Wells8293

Ok that's good to know I've found a few parts that say advance an I thought it was just a hole other model. Now I'm guessing I have ether a CL-1 or an advanced model. I have a book that breaks it all down an shows you how to build it an then who ever had it before me wrote notes next to some things. An then some parts look like there all carbon fiber out. Lol the more we talk about it I don't wanna get rid of it. Every one I talked says GS had something they made really good product. Now let's talk about the .27 monster motor did it come with that or is that a choice?

BrettL

iTrader: (27)

That's an aftermarket engine I think. It would have came with a 21 if it had been a rtr. Iff you race, you'll have to use a 21, 27 is truggy motor. My Advanced and Advanced Plus have carbon fiber, sounds like you have the kit version.

I'd tear it all down, check internal diff gears, put new oil in your diffs and shocks, just clean things up and familiarize yourself with the buggy.

Wells8293

What's a good overall nitro motor?

BrettL

iTrader: (27)

There's a lot of good engines out there. Stick with carbs with 2 needles and 3 or 5 port cylinders. You'll get better fuel consumption usually and the faster 7 port engines are better suited for experienced racers. Just my opinion. I like the Werks B6 in mine. Bought it used and got lucky but I'll still buy new in the future.

Wells8293

Sounds good I'm used to traxxas motors so I guess now I'll have to learn other ones!!

BrettL

iTrader: (27)

Go to the track you plan to race on. Most tracks you'll find have one engine brand that's more common than others. At ours, it's the Alpha brand. Good engines. I'm old school, so when I was first told that you needed to replace the connecting rod after break-in, I thought it was ridiculous. I still do. But, I guess is the norm with high performance, high pinch, engines. You'll need a heat gun or engine pre-heater(good investment) to heat a new engine up enough to turn it over with minimal, initial stress to the engine. Many racers are using these pre-heaters after break-in as well. Look on the nitro engine forum at the top of this page, lot of great information there.

Wells8293

I'm heading to the track tomorrow I don't think anyone will be there but if there is I'll see what there running an ill get back with you an we can go from there. I just got parts today a lot of upper front an rear but no upper arms(. I'm going to check on a motor heater now.

HaulinBass

iTrader: (16)

digging this up from the dead, my father in law gave me back my old cl1 thats been run maybe four times for a tank of fuel. is anyone still sitting on parts send me a message if you are and want to get rid of some.
anyways im getting it cleaned up, its a cl1 pro rtr wich i dont think was ever sold in north america.

BrettL

iTrader: (27)

Try Nitrotek. They're in the UK but I've dealt with them and prices are fair and shipping is fast.

Rdkill

Google led me here

Back from the depths again, sad to hear about GS racings disappearance, I ran their stuff for years when I used to race, always told myself I'd get back into it but no time anymore

I'm on parts in the off chance anyone still needs them. 2 complete builds and a chassis.

Unsure if they are cl-1 or clx I don't recall

BrettL

iTrader: (27)

I'm still running my GS. I'd be interested in seeing pics of what you have. I sent my email in a pm.

eric stockwell

iTrader: (6)

Hi brett seeing if you still have your gs buggys im looking for 1 thanks.

BrettL

iTrader: (27)

Hi Eric. Yep, still running my CL-1 Advanced Plus. I've got a NIB kit and another kit that I pulled out and keep in plastic divider cases in my pit box. That way, I'll always have the part I need. Its so tough though, I don't remember using anything but screws and such that vibrated out. I hadn't really considered selling it. I've got 2 or 300 bucks of extra parts all nip as well. My first nitro buggy was the original Storm. Are you a collector?