Are any of you guy's having trouble with rear shock ends coming off? Even after you replace the factory ones?
Check the threads on your shock shafts and make sure they are OK. When I got mine from the factory, the shock ends were stripped and this left melted plastic in the threads. I cleaned them with a small wire brush and then installed the new shock ends. If that is OK, I woudl also recommend checking your droop to ensure you got the proper amount and not more.
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i tried the changes casey mentioned and it made the car very loose out of the corner at the track i was at on the weekend.
i started the day with all the changes and pulled them off 1 by 1 during the day until all that was left was the softer white springs. i liked the softer springs so ill keep them.
im going to give the changes a go at another track to see if they work better there
Are any of you guy's having trouble with rear shock ends coming off? Even after you replace the factory ones?
I had one come off in a Pro series race with 3 min to go, running 3rd and moving to the 2 leaders. The worse possible time. I installed jammin short rod ends that are intended for 3.5 mm shafts. They aint commin off. You will most likely need a shock shaft tool to install them but they work perfectly. I just saw 4 people having this problem with big jumps and I even saw some one running red aluminum ones at a recent race.
Never had an issue with the shock ends. If your droop is set correctly, they should be fine, unless you have a bad impact.
As for my experiences with the Casey Peck setup, I ran the truck with it yesterday with great results. I used the front links as I mentioned earlier, and a 2mm sway bar. I stuck with the stock grey springs and oil. My findings were that the truck had substantially more turn in, and the rear end stayed very planted. I did notice slightly less on power steering though. For me, and my driving style, the chenges were very beneficial. My next change will be to try the white rear springs, but I really liked the way it was.
vladconnery im Stumped as to your bone problem....i would suggest taking stuff apart and get measuring ......get out a set of caliper's and just start measuring w/e you can....im sure you'll find out the issue.
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Have any of you guys ever seen this. One of my front shafts does not reach into the out drive fully. Causing it to pop out.
1. the diff is a center smart diff converted over to a front.
2. I thought it was the aluminum spindle and carrier. Changed it back to a plastic still the same. To eliminate bad aluminum milling.
3. there is not back and forth play in the shaft.
4. there is not back and forth play in the diff or out drive.
5. droop is 110mm not that. it should make a difference.
6. It's a new shaft I took the original out and replaced before the pick. To eliminate short or bent shaft.
7. It's the shaft on the right FYI.
I just got my T2.0 and it has grey fiber/pastic disc brakes on it and they are the same size front and rear. I called Losi and they didn't know if they were right or not. they dont have any holes to vent either. Has anyone else seen these brake rotors. Im guessing it is some kind of update because it also came with a fuel tank pull strap and the front and rear camber screws are plenty long and go all the way through the lock nut on the other side.
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