8T 2.0

[ABURTON]

Originally Posted by mattwoodcraft

what are you doing with the rear shocks on the mod your talking about ?

Matt,

on all four caps just drill a small hole, approx a #55 size hole or a bit larger. Clean out the cap and then glue to o-rings together and then glue them inside the cap, making sure not to block the hole. Then build your shocks with full rebound.

For me and talking with Adam it helps keep the shocks more consistent with the full rebound build. The more rebound the better on slick tracks o this works well, the higher bite the track the less rebound from what Adam told me.

I run it all the time, however I don't get the chance to hit a super high bite track often.

[Frank L]

Originally Posted by reggie l.

i think its kool man...let us know how its wears

The upgrade stuff is tough. This is my second one this year so far. It all depends on how hard you crash and what crashes into you. The skins clean up good and it takes a lot to tear them up. I usually race 2-3x per month and they hold up for 4 months or so of that kind of abuse. Sometimes I tend to crash a lot too. I like them though. Now the starter box skin will last forever. I had one last well into 2 years with minimal signs of wear.

[reggie l.]

ok kool i was thinking of geting one..but at 50 bucks i just was like ill get a painted one

[ABURTON]

reggie, shoot me a email. the guy that does my stuff does a great job and he is cheap. His name is Chris Burling of Bmr racing products. I think for custom jobs he charges $100 for the first time fee. That includes your wrap for the body and a wing wrap to match, also includes the artwork/time to set up and work with you on the scheme. After that he has it saverd and you can get them for $20-25. I race, practice, etc a lot more than most. His material is the same high quality stuff and last a long time as well!

My email is alanburton20@gmail.com

[mattwoodcraft]

thanks for the info i will do the mod

[CaseyP]

hey guys I bounced between gray and black springs today with weight and without.

in the rear I ended up with no weight gray springs 30 wt and a touch less camber around 1.5deg I did not have any whites but like Matt mentioned.

The track I ran at today had good traction when wet and as it dried out it became pretty loose. I was running vtr calibers m2. I wish I had some m3's because they would have been the ticket

[mattwoodcraft]

the whites are good i have used 25 wt oil 27.5 wt and 30 wt out of the shock oils i liked the 27.5wt felt very balanced and planted

[CaseyP]

cool, I want try lighter at both ends of the truck

[jzemaxx]

What toe settings are you guys running on the loose tracks?

[CaseyP]

I run a 3-3 block almost everywhere. Here is a clip of my truggy today with the set up we are talking about. The track was good wet and got pretty loose when it dried out

click here

[Frank L]

Originally Posted by CaseyP

I run a 3-3 block almost everywhere. Here is a clip of my truggy today with the set up we are talking about. The track was good wet and got pretty loose when it dried out

click here

Nice video, your truck looks pretty dialed in.

[terzianator]

Nice truck and excellent driving Casey P.
I just bought a 2.0, i need to stick around this section so I can learn how to work on the thing.

[TIX]

casey when you run 3-3 on the rear do you run 1 up and .5 out of 0.
the arguement has always been that the adjustables losi braces are out and that 0's are 2.7 and .5's out are 3.25
so which ones do you run to get 3 degrees of toe in

[mattwoodcraft]

Originally Posted by TIX

casey when you run 3-3 on the rear do you run 1 up and .5 out of 0.
the arguement has always been that the adjustables losi braces are out and that 0's are 2.7 and .5's out are 3.25
so which ones do you run to get 3 degrees of toe in

tix i know what your taliking about i have 0 in the back and .5 in the front i run this pretty much where ever i run

[mattwoodcraft]

nice driving casey ... your truck looks really good mate