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Old 05-06-2009, 09:16 PM   #436
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Wow, we have 11 people watching, that means all of rctech will be reading this tomorrow.

I stand by everything I say all the time. I just hope that you are not the one dragging your friends name through the mud. I do hope that everyone in rctech does read this. At least people who like drama will be entertained.

I am serious, find out who thara really is and I will gladly make a public apology to you.

In the meanwhile, I think rctech will give me the ip address and I can take it from there.
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Old 05-06-2009, 09:18 PM   #437
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Man you should've told me that at wiregrass ....but i guess your pussy was hurting....lmao
I was there...and I just gave you my number....call me tomorrow.
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Old 05-06-2009, 09:41 PM   #438
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I feel after talking to Ed Garcia on the phone that I was mistaken about him being thara and I owe him an apology.

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Old 05-06-2009, 09:51 PM   #439
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Wow
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Old 05-07-2009, 12:43 AM   #440
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Now I understand when I went to Hobby Haven over the weekend I was being called fire starter after reading some of the threads.

LEAVE ME OUT OF IT WHEN SOMEONE FLAMES YOU OR YOUR STUFF. DON'T ACCUSE ME OF BEING SOMEONE WHO I'M NOT. IT'S NOT THE FIRST TIME THEY DONE THIS. OF COURSE THIS IS 2ND HAND INFO SINCE IT'S NOT POSTED IN OPEN FORUM.
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Old 05-07-2009, 01:07 AM   #441
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The tracks where i race are very bumpy and dusty!

very sharp corners and short with long back jumps!

will 5 5 3 with 45 F and 40 R work with the ZX 1.5?

any hop ups to better the car or changes needed?

Thanks for the email!
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Old 05-07-2009, 05:23 AM   #442
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The tracks where i race are very bumpy and dusty!

very sharp corners and short with long back jumps!

will 5 5 3 with 45 F and 40 R work with the ZX 1.5?

any hop ups to better the car or changes needed?

Thanks for the email!
There are a lot of different setups being run lately. I would say to start with 45/35 on the shocks with 1.4/1.3 pistons.
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Old 05-07-2009, 06:26 AM   #443
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Another thing to look at is the diff fluids. It is beyond me, but there are a few guys that are running 2000,3000,1000 and having good success with it on the nitro platform.

I suppose it could be working like the clutch and making the car hook up better?
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Old 05-07-2009, 09:48 AM   #444
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Originally Posted by hbrb View Post
The tracks where i race are very bumpy and dusty!

very sharp corners and short with long back jumps!

will 5 5 3 with 45 F and 40 R work with the ZX 1.5?

any hop ups to better the car or changes needed?

Thanks for the email!
Here is a good setup that i run my track are rough big jumps med traction. this setup works at most tracks! diffs front to rear 2000,3000,1000 shocks front blue springs 1.4 pistons 37and a 1/2 rear yellow springs 1.3 pistons 32 and a 1/2 The fusion Sport front tower is the best tower to use. We should have the cf version and the coming weeks so i would wait for that!
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Old 05-07-2009, 10:22 AM   #445
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Here is a good setup that i run my track are rough big jumps med traction. this setup works at most tracks! diffs front to rear 2000,3000,1000 shocks front blue springs 1.4 pistons 37and a 1/2 rear yellow springs 1.3 pistons 32 and a 1/2 The fusion Sport front tower is the best tower to use. We should have the cf version and the coming weeks so i would wait for that!
In addition to that, I would have the following

Front:
Camber: -2 (that's total, -1 on each side)
Toe: -1 (total .5 on each side)
Caster: Large spacer up front, this increases caster will will make the car turn in faster
Shock Placement: Tower Middle hole/ arm inner hole
Droop: Full droop (make sure axles are equal)
Ride Height: Level after 12" drop
Ackerman: Middle

Rear:
Linkage: Shock tower Inner middle hole to outside upper hole
Camber: -2 (that's total, -1 on each side)
Toe: 2.5 block
Shock Placement: Tower 2nd to outer/ arm inner hole
Droop: Full (start off at full and slowly take away rear droop to gain more forward traction)
Ride Height: Slightly below level after 12" drop

Hope this helps.
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Old 05-07-2009, 10:29 AM   #446
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Originally Posted by Deznuts05 View Post
In addition to that, I would have the following

Front:
Camber: -2 (that's total, -1 on each side)
Toe: -1 (total .5 on each side)
Caster: Large spacer up front, this increases caster will will make the car turn in faster
Shock Placement: Tower Middle hole/ arm inner hole
Droop: Full droop (make sure axles are equal)
Ride Height: Level after 12" drop
Ackerman: Middle

Rear:
Linkage: Shock tower Inner middle hole to outside upper hole
Camber: -2 (that's total, -1 on each side)
Toe: 2.5 block
Shock Placement: Tower 2nd to outer/ arm inner hole
Droop: Full (start off at full and slowly take away rear droop to gain more forward traction)
Ride Height: Slightly below level after 12" drop

Hope this helps.
Rudy Diaz
Thanks going to give that a try!!

any bugs i should have a look out to fix?
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Old 05-07-2009, 06:52 PM   #447
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Great talking to you today Josh
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Old 05-07-2009, 08:08 PM   #448
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Deznuts05 View Post
In addition to that, I would have the following

Front:
Camber: -2 (that's total, -1 on each side)
Toe: -1 (total .5 on each side)
Caster: Large spacer up front, this increases caster will will make the car turn in faster
Shock Placement: Tower Middle hole/ arm inner hole
Droop: Full droop (make sure axles are equal)
Ride Height: Level after 12" drop
Ackerman: Middle

Rear:
Linkage: Shock tower Inner middle hole to outside upper hole
Camber: -2 (that's total, -1 on each side)
Toe: 2.5 block
Shock Placement: Tower 2nd to outer/ arm inner hole
Droop: Full (start off at full and slowly take away rear droop to gain more forward traction)
Ride Height: Slightly below level after 12" drop

Hope this helps.
Rudy Diaz

I see you say you run full droop in the front. If you are going to be running a track with tighter turns or having problems with some push try taking some of your front droop out. I run very little droop in the front. The Caster will turn so sharp you will be 'd
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Old 05-08-2009, 12:15 AM   #449
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Originally Posted by vnmsgt View Post
I see you say you run full droop in the front. If you are going to be running a track with tighter turns or having problems with some push try taking some of your front droop out. I run very little droop in the front. The Caster will turn so sharp you will be 'd
110%

Taking droop away in the front will allow for tighter turn while on the gas.

Its honestly a driver preference, I prefer to do all my gas and braking while in a straight line. That's not to say I don't gas it past the apex but I just drive strange I suppose.

The suggestion of running full droop in the front was to keep tire contact on the ruff sections. With a steady throttle those sections are just eaten up.

Chris, if you noticed I mentioned taking away rear droop as well. My reason for that is I do all my braking while my wheels are straight; with less droop in the rear this will allow more weight to be transferred forward to the front allowing for my style of driving.

Hope this wasn't too confusing HBRB. And to answer your question about bugs, its really hard to say since all drivers do different things. So what I may break may not be the same things that you break. My advice would be get a few laps on the car and then start changing one thing at a time.

I started with a really slow suspension 50wt in the front and 40wt in the rear. Then the following week I kept the same setup less the front weight I lowered to 40wt all around and it was a different car. Simply just run the car how it is for one weekend and the change up next weekend to see how it reacts.

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Old 05-08-2009, 02:46 AM   #450
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Good post Rudy! LOL


I drive kinda the same way....semi 1/10 scale style.....including the slowness.


HBRB....I think you'll find that this buggy is very responsive to small changes. Change one thing at a time....even if it's just the tire.

Check out our forum too...there's tons of setups for different tracks and driving styles.
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