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Old 11-24-2008, 05:33 PM   #1
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Default stripped screw in cooling head

can any1 help me with this problem, i have a go .21 5 port that i got with a truggy and 2 other motors about a month ago. i was going 2 sell the .21 but now my stock mach 427 is going out i decided to give this a try, i was going to inspect the piston head before installin the motor but when i tried to take the cooling head off i found out 1 out of the 4 screws are stripped. how do you get the stripped screw out of the coolin head since you cant get anything down in the hole?
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Old 11-24-2008, 05:44 PM   #2
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I used a large drill bit (4mm maybe?) to drill through he head of the screw, then once the head come off there was enough of the screw to still get out with pliers.

Otherwise, if your trying to use allen keys, ask a few mates that have proper allen wrench drivers which have alot better fit inside the screw. Orrrrr, last but not least, if you already have your own allen drivers, put in the one for that screw, sit then engine with the mounts on onto a flat, perhaps metal serface, and hit the allen driver with a small hammer just lightly, this can often be enough juuuuuust to loosen the screw for it to be able to be removed. But the 1st way may be your only option, just take your time or you could butcher the head.

Good luck
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Old 11-24-2008, 05:45 PM   #3
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Not to be a SA$$, but why do you need to inspect it? I would put the other 3 screws in it and try it. Unless you know something is wrong with it. Sometimes a torx will get a partially stripped allen screw out.
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Old 11-24-2008, 05:46 PM   #4
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Generally if you get three out the fourth will not be tight anymore. So even with a stripped head you can usually work it out with the driver. Sometimes a tuning screwdriver or any little flat blade will fit in the head enough to rotate it. If nothing else works, cut it with a dremel if you can fit it in far enough, or drill the head of the bolt off.
Good luck.
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Old 11-24-2008, 05:47 PM   #5
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+1 for drilling off head and trying with pliers
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Old 11-24-2008, 05:54 PM   #6
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thanks guys, and i wanna inspect it because its a used motor, i dont know what the history is or anything and i wanna see how the piston looks, see if its been leaned out a lot and maybe started to pit....
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Old 11-24-2008, 06:06 PM   #7
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+2 for drilling the head od the screw off. Best bet at this point, always works, but is messy. Some other things you might try -

Sometimes a little CA on the end of the wrench will give you enough bond strength that you can get tthe bolt with stripped head to break loose - if it doesn't noting lost in trying. See which inch size allen is closest to teh right size and using a few strokes with a file at the time, take enough metal off teh end of teh wrench so it begins to fit. WHen it will get started a little, use a small mallet to drive it in and try to back it out. Sometimes, it will wedge tight enough, you'll be able to get it out.

May help to turn oven on and set on lowest temp, then when oven is at temp, turn it off and put engine in and let sit for 10-15min. Use oven mitt and try to get screw out while engine is hot and everything is expanded.

Good luck
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Old 11-25-2008, 10:47 AM   #8
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I agree with drilling since you will not be re-using that bolt anyways.
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Old 11-25-2008, 12:29 PM   #9
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I'm not sure which type of screw the Go motor uses but if it is a Novarossi copy then it would have a screw that uses a flat blade screw driver. Like said above remove the other three screws so there is no load on teh last screw. Then heat the motor up with a heat gun or blow driver to loosen up any possible threadlock on the screw. Then remove it with a good screwdriver. If the Go engine has socket hex head screws then use the right hex driver (most likely a 2.5mm or 3mm hex driver).

If you can get them out you can replace them with better screws
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Old 11-25-2008, 02:27 PM   #10
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I had this problem and MIP saved me. I was using losi wrenches and thought that the two screw sere totally stripped. Guy at the hobby shop threw in his MIP 2.0 and it came right out.

since then ive bought almost every allen they make
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Old 11-25-2008, 05:45 PM   #11
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Could you just try a tap and screw remover set? You drill a hole into the screw with a drill bit that threads the hole it makes backwards from a normal screw, and then when you use the supplied tap, as you tighten the tap into the hole you just drilled, you are loosening the screw (tap tightens as you turn it counterclockwise, which torques the screw "loosey"). They make these quite small, and if you take apart the engine afterwards to make sure no metal shavings got down in the crankcase, you'll be all set. I would say this would have less chance of damaging the crankcase threads than cutting and using pliers to try and force the thing out.

Any hardware store will have them - just make sure you buy a set that's the correct size for the screw you are trying to remove. It will run you about $5.
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Old 11-25-2008, 05:56 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wstuart View Post
I had this problem and MIP saved me. I was using losi wrenches and thought that the two screw sere totally stripped. Guy at the hobby shop threw in his MIP 2.0 and it came right out.

since then ive bought almost every allen they make
Been using them since before MIP came into the picture, when they were just called Thorp drivers.....worth every penny too.

Pauly6401- good idea, not sure will work with this small of a bolt thats buried in the head, but along same lines, they make a reverse easy out that works the same way and would eliminate trying to tap in that tight space down in the head.
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Old 11-25-2008, 06:37 PM   #13
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+2 on the mip drivers, best in the business
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Old 11-25-2008, 10:04 PM   #14
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Leave it for last use left hand drill may spin it out.
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Old 11-25-2008, 11:32 PM   #15
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i have an ez out, but it wont fit in the hole. im workin on the car tommrow so ill try something mentioned here. THANKS
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