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Old 11-11-2008, 10:18 AM   #1
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Default Anyone running Picco EVO 2 P7R..come in....

If you have a Picco P7R motor can you tell me about what your needle settings are including your idle needle. Im still having trouble getting this thing just to run. Im not looking for exact needle settings but just close. Im also running 30% with a McCoy MC-9 cold plug.

The only way i can get it to idle is to have the idle screw all the way in, but there is no throttle responce at all.
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Old 11-11-2008, 10:34 AM   #2
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If you have a Picco P7R motor can you tell me about what your needle settings are including your idle needle. Im still having trouble getting this thing just to run. Im not looking for exact needle settings but just close. Im also running 30% with a McCoy MC-9 cold plug.

The only way i can get it to idle is to have the idle screw all the way in, but there is no throttle responce at all.
very bad plug choice...they run much better with a hot plug...get rid of the MC and get a nice hot plug and the motor will run much better...Cold plugs are the worst thing to use when breaking in a motor...
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Old 11-11-2008, 10:41 AM   #3
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I'm running the Evo3; but they're pretty similar.

First thing; ditch the 9 and go with a McCoy 8. That will probably solve most of the issues right off; richen the bottom back up.

An RB6; Novarossi 5/6 would also work well. The McCoy 8 will be the most versatile and easiest to tune on to start with.

Main needle: Close; out 5.5 turns

Bottom: Flush it with the throttle ball pull; then OUT 1-turn

Idle gap: 1/16" or about 1.6mm; you should wind up down around 1mm on the gap.

Mine runs great with a head temp in the 220 range on Byron Gen 2 25% w/McCoy 8.

Hope that helps ya a bit.
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Old 11-11-2008, 10:42 AM   #4
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BTW if you're breaking it in; run a MC59; Nova 4/5; RB5...something hot to start with.
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Old 11-11-2008, 10:51 AM   #5
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you need to add one 0.1mm shim when running 30% fuel in order to prevent detonation marks on the piston and head button.
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Old 11-11-2008, 11:03 AM   #6
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+10000 on the above...
A friend of mine has been running the Evo2 this summer. Now he is an experienced racer/tuner. But he's had issues from time to time, mostly with ghost flaming. He's been running HP8 30, MC8s, JP4. The engine was decent with the JP pipe, but not what I thought it could be, so I let him "borrow" an old Werks 2013 I had. This REALLY! woke the engine up.But, still having ghost flaming from time to time. I nabbed the engine from him recently and added a thin shim. Put it in my truggy...engine was great all day for me, not a single flame!
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Old 11-11-2008, 11:10 AM   #7
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Old 11-11-2008, 11:20 AM   #8
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It did have just have one .01mm shim then i added a .02mm shim.

I have noticed that when my buggy is on the starter box with the glow stick still attached to the plug and just idleing then i take the glow stick off it dies. so that gave me some thoghts about going to a hotter plug but have not done it yet. I will try it today.

Im also running a JP-3 pipe.

And this motor is not new..Do not know what break in meathod was used.

Man thanks for all your help and info!!!
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Old 11-11-2008, 11:34 AM   #9
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you need to add one 0.1mm shim when running 30% fuel in order to prevent detonation marks on the piston and head button.

no need to add shims..in fact once it breaks in they run better removing 1 shim....adding a shim just takes away major low end power, they already have planty of head clearance with stock shims, actually too much clearance
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Old 11-11-2008, 11:36 AM   #10
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Originally Posted by TXRC8racer View Post
It did have just have one .01mm shim then i added a .02mm shim.

I have noticed that when my buggy is on the starter box with the glow stick still attached to the plug and just idleing then i take the glow stick off it dies. so that gave me some thoghts about going to a hotter plug but have not done it yet. I will try it today.

Im also running a JP-3 pipe.

And this motor is not new..Do not know what break in meathod was used.

Man thanks for all your help and info!!!
stock these motors should have 2 x 0.2 mm and 1 x 0.10 mm for a total of 3 shims..... use all 3 shims for the first gallon or 2 of life, or untill all metal/metal pinch is gone..after that remove the 1 0.1 mm shim and you will be good to go........ if you want to get th emotor running its best switch to the turbo head, it provides easier tuning and much crisper throttle response

and before someone tells me i'm wrong keep in mind i have done nearly 100 of these engines and all are working perfectly with a total of 0.4 mm total shimming.... if its flaming out its too lean from trying to get power from the extra shims, be removing the shim it allows you to run a little richer and maintain awesome low end response......
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Old 11-11-2008, 11:45 AM   #11
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I bought the notor used. Well since i have tuning issues over the past couple of weeks i pulled the head and head button off to check the piston and seen pitting on top of thepiston and bottom of the head button then i was told i needed to add a .01mm shim to the allready .01mm shim to make a total of
.02mm of shiming well i added a little etra security of adding a .02 to to .01mm shim. And thats my reasoning to add a shim is due to the pitting on top of the piston and i was told the pitting is from pre-detonation.
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Old 11-11-2008, 11:49 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TXRC8racer View Post
I bought the notor used. Well since i have tuning issues over the past couple of weeks i pulled the head and head button off to check the piston and seen pitting on top of thepiston and bottom of the head button then i was told i needed to add a .01mm shim to the allready .01mm shim to make a total of
.02mm of shiming well i added a little etra security of adding a .02 to to .01mm shim. And thats my reasoning to add a shim is due to the pitting on top of the piston and i was told the pitting is from pre-detonation.

so your motor had only 0.1 mm total shimming ? if so that is very bad, you want a final total shimming of 0.4 mm...........and if you experience any flameouts your running too lean....... 0.4 total shims with a proper tune is the ideal setup for 30% nitro
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Old 11-11-2008, 11:57 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Maximo View Post
stock these motors should have 2 x 0.2 mm and 1 x 0.10 mm for a total of 3 shims..... use all 3 shims for the first gallon or 2 of life, or untill all metal/metal pinch is gone..after that remove the 1 0.1 mm shim and you will be good to go........ if you want to get th emotor running its best switch to the turbo head, it provides easier tuning and much crisper throttle response

and before someone tells me i'm wrong keep in mind i have done nearly 100 of these engines and all are working perfectly with a total of 0.4 mm total shimming.... if its flaming out its too lean from trying to get power from the extra shims, be removing the shim it allows you to run a little richer and maintain awesome low end response......

both of my evo2 engines have come with one 0.2mm shim and one 0.1mm shim, that is why I said to add an extra 0.1mm....
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Old 11-11-2008, 11:58 AM   #14
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so your motor had only 0.1 mm total shimming ? if so that is very bad, you want a final total shimming of 0.4 mm...........and if you experience any flameouts your running too lean....... 0.4 total shims with a proper tune is the ideal setup for 30% nitro

I am guessing that was the shim that was in it when i got it was a .1mm and i added a .2mm shim. I still have more shims that i just bought just incase i needed them.
So i need to take out that .1 and add the .2 to make a total of .4mm of shims? And add a hotter plug.
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Old 11-11-2008, 12:16 PM   #15
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I am guessing that was the shim that was in it when i got it was a .1mm and i added a .2mm shim. I still have more shims that i just bought just incase i needed them.
So i need to take out that .1 and add the .2 to make a total of .4mm of shims? And add a hotter plug.

yes...you are very lucky your motor survived running with that few head shims, whoever sold you the motor should be slapped !!!
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