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Old 11-06-2008, 04:21 PM   #1
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Default Shock Rebound

how should I set the rebound in my shocks? i know how to do it I just don't know if more or less rebound is the way to go or how it affects the car?
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Old 11-06-2008, 04:44 PM   #2
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Read this thread...

(especially post #11)
shock pre-loading

Not a ton of info but that should help some. Hopefully we'll get a few more tips this time around. I'm still a little curious but will build mine for next year with 100% rebound and see how it goes. Not very bumpy track for me.
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Old 11-06-2008, 04:59 PM   #3
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thanks that was a big help!
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Old 11-07-2008, 03:51 AM   #4
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thanks that was a big help!
No problem. Think you are going with 100% rebound too? It sounds like if you can tolerate 100% rebound that there are many benefits as long as the track is not too bumpy so I'm going to go for it.
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Old 11-07-2008, 12:31 PM   #5
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my next race in in Feb, i just got my rc8 BB and am going to set up with 50% rebound until i see the track and get a run in or two.
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Old 12-30-2008, 04:19 AM   #6
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what is the secret to getting all 4 matched? I want to try 100% rebound.
I am following the building advice in the XRAY manual and want 100%. After the first try I've got one at 100%, one about 95%, the others are 70-80% or so. Keep bleeding and filling until it "just works" ?!
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Old 12-30-2008, 10:30 AM   #7
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Originally Posted by bjr48 View Post
what is the secret to getting all 4 matched? I want to try 100% rebound.
I am following the building advice in the XRAY manual and want 100%. After the first try I've got one at 100%, one about 95%, the others are 70-80% or so. Keep bleeding and filling until it "just works" ?!

http://www.rchobbies.org/losi_shock_tool.htm
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Old 12-30-2008, 10:50 AM   #8
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Interesting tool but doesn't tell me what to fix. How much has it helped you with other problems?

In my case am I supposed to make sure the air is all bled out and try to squeeze in those last couple of drops to get it to rebound 100%? Take the bladders back out and make sure no oil got above them? I don't want to keep bleeding and topping off if I don't know what is causing them not to all be 100% rebound...
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Old 12-30-2008, 12:10 PM   #9
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What I have noticed about the rebound is if you are tword the 100% mark the rebound seems to be faster on the way out and a little stiffer on the way in I think I would like about 50% rebound but it could take me quite some time to achieve that in all 4 shocks(and sometimes I don't have the patients). In my car at about 100% rebound my car feels bouncy landing from jumps and also does not suck up the smaller bumps as well.
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Old 12-30-2008, 02:43 PM   #10
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Interesting tool but doesn't tell me what to fix. How much has it helped you with other problems?

In my case am I supposed to make sure the air is all bled out and try to squeeze in those last couple of drops to get it to rebound 100%? Take the bladders back out and make sure no oil got above them? I don't want to keep bleeding and topping off if I don't know what is causing them not to all be 100% rebound...
by rebound are you talking about the amount your shock shaft move out after being fully compressed without the spring on the shock ? if so most companies say that when you build shocks that you shouldnt have the shock shafts pushing back out at you when you push them all the way in ...just trying to understand what you are trying to accomplish.....when i build or rebuild my shocks i want to be able to push the shafts all the way in and have them stay there ....if they are shooting back out at you they have to much oil in them .....
and yes the tool helps you get a more precise build on your shocks ....
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Old 12-30-2008, 03:08 PM   #11
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From what I've read on various forums, Losi guys recomend 50% rebound. I have also heard Mugen now suggests some rebound in the X6 instructions. I havn't heard anything for other bugs, though.
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Old 12-30-2008, 08:47 PM   #12
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zixxer - that's exactly what I'm trying to get. Shock to push back out all the way with no spring installed. I drive a Kyosho but the XRAY manual shows how to get 0-100% rebound by positioning the piston at a certain place before putting the cap on.
I ran with 0% (or maybe a little less who knows? 0% and no less than 0% is hard to get too) last year and didn't like it at all. Wanted to try 100% and go from there. Maybe I should research this more but seems like most people here do build for rebound.
I just found that if I made sure the bladders had air trapped in them for sure and felt firm that I get closer to 100% but not all are perfect. Must be an o-ring leak is what I would guess next Shafts were not leaking any around the o-rings though so I don't know for sure. Now I know why most hate building shocks. I was happy the last two years if I got all of the air out, was about 0% rebound and when they stayed together and I would inspect them later they were full, looked good and could drain and refill and re-bleed them real quick. But I know they are a little more important than that now
Not sure what to ask or what I want now. Oh, well....I'm not likely to notice anyway!
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Old 12-31-2008, 03:22 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bjr48 View Post
zixxer - that's exactly what I'm trying to get. Shock to push back out all the way with no spring installed. I drive a Kyosho but the XRAY manual shows how to get 0-100% rebound by positioning the piston at a certain place before putting the cap on.
I ran with 0% (or maybe a little less who knows? 0% and no less than 0% is hard to get too) last year and didn't like it at all. Wanted to try 100% and go from there. Maybe I should research this more but seems like most people here do build for rebound.
I just found that if I made sure the bladders had air trapped in them for sure and felt firm that I get closer to 100% but not all are perfect. Must be an o-ring leak is what I would guess next Shafts were not leaking any around the o-rings though so I don't know for sure. Now I know why most hate building shocks. I was happy the last two years if I got all of the air out, was about 0% rebound and when they stayed together and I would inspect them later they were full, looked good and could drain and refill and re-bleed them real quick. But I know they are a little more important than that now
Not sure what to ask or what I want now. Oh, well....I'm not likely to notice anyway!

yeh not sure how to accomplish that ? i have always built and rebuilt mine with 0 ....that is the way all the manuals for all the kits i have ever run have said to build them...fioroni makes dual rate shock pistons ...and rekward tuning make progressive rate springs ...that might help ? not sure
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Old 12-31-2008, 04:29 AM   #14
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After letting them sit overnight they are all unequal again. I'm not going to obsess over this since no one has noted what exactly to check for wear or whatever is wrong.
LIke I said before, I probably won't notice that much...
It's just like everything else - run the car one time and everything changes anyway. I'm not going to obsess over perfect setup quite yet with my talents
BUT if my car won't jump level right to left or something like that I'll definately have to deal with it!
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Old 12-31-2008, 04:55 AM   #15
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I have found it easier to to make them all the same by bleeding them using just the bladders without the cap, then screw the cap on last. just for me anyway, also as far as rebound goes I tune my shock by the track.
for large tracks with huge jumps I will put rebound in them (like 70 percent)
for smaller tracks like the one I currently run at -CRCRC- I use no rebound the largest jump is only around 5 feet tall or so, its indoor so no major hangtime. for the midwest champs who knows it will be on a bigger track
but since its a track where they also run electric I dont look for jumps to be too large.
thanks
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