Well....DE doesn't pay me or the other countless people at my local track using DE products. I started using DE skid plates about 2 months ago when I put a new chassis on my MP9. I think the key is that I started with a new chassis. I have had no problems at all and my chassis looks as good as new. I will definitely be using them from now on.
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Brandon
-Kyosho, AKA, Team Orion
I'm with you on that one best chassis insurance out there.....I run them on my lads 808 and stops the ISS blocks getting worn away as well well worth the $7 in my books.
Though I get them direct you can find them at major hobby stores like Amain.
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Jimmy Wright
Track Star Racer Services / ALPHA Plus Engines / RC PRO Products / Tamiya / Prime Fuel / GMK Supply / TKO Bearings / AKA Racing / WRD2 / KO Propo / Fantom Motors and Batteries / M2C Racing / Fastlane Graphix / Scale Auto Engineering
the new 808 plates bulge out when I tighten them down, the oldones did not, and the front bumper for the 808 nees to be longer and cover the one spot in the bend that wears. Duhhhh....
the new 808 plates bulge out when I tighten them down, the oldones did not, and the front bumper for the 808 nees to be longer and cover the one spot in the bend that wears. Duhhhh....
I must be on the same page as you "meredith".... I have the front and rear DE skid on my MP9 and there is a large section between the two skid plates that scratches. It is right in the center of the chassis. As a matter of fact there are scratches in all of the places that my DE skid plates don't cover. I am now going to retract all of the good things I previously posted about DE. I guess I thought I was buying a complete "bumper to bumper" protection kit and it obviously isn't. My tank puller on the other hand is awesome!!!!
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Brandon
-Kyosho, AKA, Team Orion
Not every chassis is the same. They all have certain tolerences for manufacturing, and those are tighter on some brands than others. This may not always be a spec that is checked by the manufacturers QC since it isn't all that important for them. The trick is that my Skid plates require the countersinks of the chassis to be machined within a certain range of depth. I have purchased and checked several chassis from each manufacturer to develope this "range". If the plate bows up when you tighten the screws it would generally mean the countersinks are to deep in the chassis. To fix this problem "DON'T TIGHTEN THE SCREWS SO HARD". They don't need to be wrenched down super tight. You could also use a little shoe goo in the countersinks between the plate and chassis and intall the plate with the screw just snugged up. Then when it is dry wrench it down a bit.
Thanks guys. I really do try my best to make quality products. I think the tank pulls are pretty cool. Hopefully others will think the same. Keep me posted. I do appreciate the feedback. Good and sometimes bad.
I must be on the same page as you "meredith".... I have the front and rear DE skid on my MP9 and there is a large section between the two skid plates that scratches. It is right in the center of the chassis. As a matter of fact there are scratches in all of the places that my DE skid plates don't cover. I am now going to retract all of the good things I previously posted about DE. I guess I thought I was buying a complete "bumper to bumper" protection kit and it obviously isn't. My tank puller on the other hand is awesome!!!!
Dude, you are having a laugh aren't you? This is a wind up? right !
The product is designed to protect the areas of highest wear, and you are slagging them off for not offering "bumper to bumper" protection.
Has anyone put the front bumper skid on a HB D8? I was wondering if the stock roundish bumper is not used anymore. Also, is the front bump/skid all you need? It covers the front, or do you place a flat skid after it to cover more surface.
I have neither, so forgive if that sounded a little vauge. Just trying to get it purchased.
