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Old 11-02-2008, 03:27 PM   #16
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how much slack is between the bell gear and the spur gear. if it's too lose it could be slapping the gears and breaking the internals.

also, what is the condition of the front and rear diffs?
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Old 11-02-2008, 03:34 PM   #17
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The front and rear diffs have been perfect. They have been pulled apart and checked. Nothing wrong with them. Just the center.
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Old 11-02-2008, 09:58 PM   #18
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Quote:
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The front and rear diffs have been perfect. They have been pulled apart and checked. Nothing wrong with them. Just the center.
that just leaves the center diff. not being filled up or the diff leaking...shouldnt be too much hp just my .02
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Old 11-02-2008, 10:38 PM   #19
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Another thought...make sure when he is landing his throttle is not pinned. A .28 landing wide-open is going to put some stress on something. Though it is more likely going to cause frt. or rear problems, there is always the off chance.

Is his clutch bell showing signs of overheating? Does he have good carrier bearings on these center diffs? The bearing(s) could be binding and causing this.

All the other suggestions previously mentioned make more sense, but I have seen some strange stuff with these toys.

Hope this helps
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Old 11-02-2008, 11:41 PM   #20
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If all else fails, I'd make sure the front and rear diff, ring and pinion are the same ratio? Never know??? I dont know if Castor runs different truggy gearing/buggy gearing but that will trash a center diff fast.
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Old 11-03-2008, 06:04 AM   #21
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If all else fails, I'd make sure the front and rear diff, ring and pinion are the same ratio? Never know??? I dont know if Castor runs different truggy gearing/buggy gearing but that will trash a center diff fast.
Yes they are the same ratio for the front and rear. He will be bringing his stuff over today so a couple of us can take a good look at it.
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Old 11-03-2008, 09:48 AM   #22
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Chris id suggest going up on the diff oil.
With the bigger motors the diffs take a lot of punishment especially the centre and unlike a .21 powered truggy the need the thicker oil
Id suggest 20k.

When he ran his truggy was teh front wheels ballooning a lot, that would also confirm that the center diff oild is too thin.
Have seen this happen on a few Mugen and X1CRT truggies.
Also make sure there is no drag on the driveline and the brakes are not binding.
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Old 11-03-2008, 04:34 PM   #23
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Well I think we found the problem. After almost 2 hours of messing with his center diff, we used a new diff housing, all new internal gears and it would still lock up in your hand, we even put 3 thick gaskets on the ring gear and it still locked, like it was really stiff. I took it apart myself the last time to look at it and I found the large washers behind the crown gears are mis-machined. They are thick as hell. If you put about 5 regular large shims together it would equal one of these shims. Both were like that. Just trying to break the diff in with drill it got very hot before. Now the Diff is nice and smooth and spins really free.

Will see wed. when he practices. I removed the center Diffs on my 2 K8T's and they felt exactly the same so I think he will be fine.
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Old 11-03-2008, 06:02 PM   #24
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Likely the problem.

My experience is that the front/rear diffs will go much sooner than the center diff if it's an issue of too much engine power...

I put an entire season on my center diff in my CRT with a Picco .28 followed by a JPX .28, both arguably have more power than the LRP... Never a single center diff issue though I did blow through about 5 rear diffs But those were also due to my negligence and not the engine itself.
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Old 11-03-2008, 06:16 PM   #25
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run 20-20-5 in the diffs. with the center diff heating up sounds like the center is a little light. if the rear is really light this could cause and issue also. like the others suggested check all rotational pieces for binding or siezing.
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Old 11-03-2008, 11:43 PM   #26
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Chris that would explain it and sounds like your problem is solved.
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