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Old 10-24-2008, 02:52 PM   #1
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Thumbs down 8ight clutch???

hey guys, i have some quick questions to ask. i have a losi 8ight rtr and im converting it to a pro version. anyway my clutch bearings fell apart on me the other day when i hit a rock. so when i took my engine off(still a mach 427) to fix it i looked at my clutch shoes and they look really smashed up. is that what they look like when you need to replace them? another thing there were only two of them. now in the manuel it says flywheel and collet(4 shoe) doesn that mean 4 clutch shoes. why does stock have only 2. or did the other 2 come of when i hit the rock? soim t hinking i need new ones. should i get the dynamite long ware alum shoes (4) or 2 composite and 2 regular? and what color springs should i get with either set? any info will help. thanx, clay unruh
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Old 10-24-2008, 04:14 PM   #2
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Hello Clay. The RTR only comes with 2 very soft alu shoes. I would suggest you put 2 carbon with green springs and 2 Aluminum with gold springs
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Old 10-25-2008, 06:57 AM   #3
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get rid of the losi clutch, you will have a problem with it as long as you use it, no matter what springs or shoes you choose! The losi clutch SUCKS!!

Exchange it for, Xray, Mugen, Kyosho or Fioroni... if you don't you'll be changing bearings and/or shoes every race!
Just a reminder, if you change the clutch setup the lousy bell wont work.
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Old 10-25-2008, 07:19 AM   #4
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The Losi clutch set up is the most reliable, most consistant, and most user friendly clutch on the market. If you are having those kinds of issues with it you must have been doing something wrong.

As Casey said use either 2 carbon/2 aluminum shoes or 4 Max Life shoes with 4 gold springs or 2 green and 2 gold springs and you should get gallons out of a clutch set up with very little maintance.
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Old 10-25-2008, 07:49 AM   #5
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It doesn't sound to me that you are racing, but maybe just having fun, and bashing around. If that is the case, I would suggest using the Max Life 4 shoe, and put 2 greens, and 2 golds. That should last you a while, without having to be checking them often as racers do. The 2 carbon/ 2 Blue set up works great for racing, but they need to be checked/replaced often, to keep them in tip top shape. Losi also offers 4 silver aluminum long wear shoes.

As for clutch bearings, all i can say is that they live a TOUGH life, and should be part of general maintanence no matter what. Avid Bearings are cheap @ 1.00 each, but they dont last a super long time. The Losi bearings seem to last much longer, but cost more. Pro-Tek (A Main carries them) @ the same price as avids, seem to last longer than avids.

The Losi clutch is a good system, but as a losi, it is a tinkerererer's dream and maintainence just goes along with it.

Good Luck, and have a blast!
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Old 10-25-2008, 08:16 AM   #6
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Thumbs up I loved the Losi clutch.....

Everyone complained about maint but I found it to be very easy to use. I did take all of my pins and round the ends slightly to make them easier to install. The trick I found was to run a setup that only slipped a little. In buggy I was normally running 3 carbon, 2 with gold springs and one with a green spring, and one highwear alum with a green spring. If I needed a little more punch because the track was hooked up then I would go to 1 alum on the other carbon's green spring. If I needed a little less I replaced the 1 alum with another carbon.
This was the best clutch system I have ever used. I do miss it.
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Old 10-26-2008, 01:02 PM   #7
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+1 to what Tex said, I love the 8ight clutch. I ran the stock shoe setup until they were toast, then switched to the KHZ 7075 shoes w/green and gold springs for a race a couple of weeks ago. When I took the engine out I figured I better replace the clutch bearings since they hadn't been touched in 1 1/2 gallons, LOL. wheb you set the gear mesh, be sure that the spur and clutch bell are lined up straight. If you have them at an angle it will eat clutch bearings.
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Old 10-26-2008, 05:13 PM   #8
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as someone who races the losi 8 I find the clutch to be very long lasting and reliable. I use the two carbons, two aluminums, with green and gold springs as well. You can run the clutch until the contact patch of the opposing clutches measure 23.4mm. That should be a long time of use if setup properly and under normal racing conditions.

Bearings should also not be a issue either. Make sure it is shimmed properly as well. I'm not sure on the RTR shoes but I'll find ya a part # for what you need. If anyone has issues with this setup not lasting or working well then it is not properly done.

give me a second.....
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Old 10-26-2008, 05:18 PM   #9
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http://www.carolinasrc.com/Webstore/...idproduct=2694


http://www.carolinasrc.com/Webstore/...idproduct=2683


http://www.carolinasrc.com/Webstore/...idproduct=2696


http://www.carolinasrc.com/Webstore/...idproduct=4062


http://www.carolinasrc.com/Webstore/...idproduct=2695



Always make sure you have no oil or grease from the bearings that gets on the internal part of your clutch bell, make sure it;s shimmed properly with just a touch of play, and good bearings(losi last along time) and you will have a great clutch.

Hope that helps.
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Old 01-15-2009, 04:49 PM   #10
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I know I read this somewhere, but I've spent the last hour trying to find it and can't. Someone posted something stating when to replace the clutch shoes on the 8ight, and it was based on taking a measurement of the total outside diameter of the clutch (with the clutch bell off). Anyone remember reading that post? If so, can you help me find it. I seem to remember it said to replace once the outside diameter shrunk to less than 23mm, but can't remember for sure. I remember someone followed up the post with a picture also, showing where to take the measurement with your caliper. Please help. Thanks.
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Old 01-15-2009, 04:54 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LVBaja View Post
I know I read this somewhere, but I've spent the last hour trying to find it and can't. Someone posted something stating when to replace the clutch shoes on the 8ight, and it was based on taking a measurement of the total outside diameter of the clutch (with the clutch bell off). Anyone remember reading that post? If so, can you help me find it. I seem to remember it said to replace once the outside diameter shrunk to less than 23mm, but can't remember for sure. I remember someone followed up the post with a picture also, showing where to take the measurement with your caliper. Please help. Thanks.
^^^^^^^^^ two post up is your answer LOL ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
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Old 01-15-2009, 05:20 PM   #12
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Baha I read that also somewhere but I thought it was 24mm new and anything under 22.1mm was toast. Not sure I meant to print it but never did
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Old 01-15-2009, 07:22 PM   #13
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I must agree with MetalShield, the losi clutch can be a pain in the ass, my bearings rarely last longer than a couple of tanks, no matter what i do.

But i think i may be putting to much oil in the bearings according to this guide i found courtesy of the www.twf8.ws website:

Quote:
"Constantly blowing clutch bearings? It can be a tough problem to eliminate.
Here are the most common causes & solutions

Is the clutch overheating due to slippage? If the shoes are worn, or if your springs are too stiff or if you've gotten oil or grease in the bell, you could get slippage. in that case the shoes are not engaging properly and slipping. this causes the bell to heat up excessively. This heat can/will destroy the bearings quickly! The solution is to clean the bell and or replace the shoes. If the spring is too stiff you might try a weaker spring.

One of the most common causes of clutch bearing failure is improper lubrication. Soaking them in any type of oil is a mistake. Once it heats up the oil migrates down the shaft into the clutch = heat = toasted bearings. Use a high melt temp extreme pressure grease in all the sealed bearings. This grease is designed for extreme bearing applications and does not migrate at operating temperatures. Many racers also have success cleaning all the lube out of the clutch bearings then re-oiling with one-half to one drop of Mobil 1/Prolong/etc.

Is the clutch bell hitting the chassis when it flexes? Look closely directly under the bell for a rub mark. If it comes in contact with the chassis at all this can cause blown bearings. The solution here is to use better braces to keep the chassis from flexing. If this isn't possible or a quick fix is needed at the track shims/washers can also be used to raise the entire engine assembly a little.

Is the clutch assembly getting too hot? Many clutch bells turn into a blue color instead of normal black when overheated. If one is available use a temp gun at the end of a hard run. An excessive temperature at the front of the bell indicates resistance or a vibration problem. At installation the bell should spin completely free and there should be a little "play" (about 0.5 mm). This allows the parts to expand when they heat up without binding. Other possible causes of excessive heat are a clutch spring that has become weak (allowing one shoe to constantly drag) or a worn or broken clutch shoe.
Check both engine bearings. Play in either will cause clutch bearing wear by allowing the crankshaft to vibrate at high RPMs. If the front engine bearing leaks fuel this can migrate into the clutch causing the failure.

A slightly warped crankshaft can also vibrate clutch bearings to death quickly. This is the most difficult problem to run down since the shaft does not have to be noticeably warped to cause bearing damaging vibration at high RPM.

The clutch bell itself can also be a bearing eater if it has developed an out-of-round (warped) condition or has been manufactured out-of-tolerance. I've seen some famous brand bells with this problem right out of the package. The outer bell spins perfectly round but the inner bell (with the teeth) is warped."
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Old 01-15-2009, 09:38 PM   #14
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this is exactly where to measure....and the measurement is 23.3mm......i can actually attest to anything lower then 23 and the performance starts to fade and heat becomes and issue.....most BN shoes are in the range of 24.4mm to 24.6mm


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Old 01-15-2009, 10:08 PM   #15
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What 8ight clutch shoes would you guys get for maximum life/miniman wear? Right now the have the KH 7075 alum in my cart at amain with green and gold springs, but I was wondering if the Dynamite Max-Life shoes last longer? This will just be for practicing at tracks and want long life out of them. They came with 4 aluminum shoes and I thought it bate alot of bite even though the seller said the clutch shoes were really worn.
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