I am Torn...
10-24-2008, 05:53 AM
#18
Tech Master
iTrader: (11)
I have to say I love my 8ight. And that's strong praise, ask jbrow, I'm an AE guy, LOL. But it's quick and responsive and responds to small setup changes. It reminds me of my AE 1/10 cars, may be why I like it so much. It does like regular maintenance but I do that with all my cars anyway. Useful hopups/upgrades are the F&R toe/antisquat blocks and the heavy duty diff cups. Any car you buy will need need some hopups/upgrades, they always do. I've driven the RC8, I liked it, not as much as the 8ight. Coming from on-road the 8ight might suit you, it carries more corner speed than any 1/8 I've ever driven and comes out like a rocket.
Servos- Futaba, JR, Ace/AE. You know not to scrimp on servos, bite the bullet and pony up for good ones, less trouble later. If you have buddies who are racing, I'd say get to the track and see if you can't wheel a few different cars and find one that suits you.
Servos- Futaba, JR, Ace/AE. You know not to scrimp on servos, bite the bullet and pony up for good ones, less trouble later. If you have buddies who are racing, I'd say get to the track and see if you can't wheel a few different cars and find one that suits you.
10-24-2008, 06:14 AM
#19
If you're looking to run BOTH buggy and truggy then I would go with the RC8 and RC8T which is what I run. Both are wicked fast, turn on a pinhead, and are fairly durable.
The main selling point for me is that they share 80% of their parts which is a HUGE costs savings. So realisticaly if you drop about $450 initially to get your spare parts warchest together then you're covered for breakage on 80% of both vehicles which is crucial during racetime if you run both classes like I do. Also if you're running only one class then you can cannabalize one car to get parts for the other if you're in a pinch.
The DX3R is an OUTSTANDING radio as far weight, ergonomics, and the sheer mountain of tunability it offers. However, Spectum has just released the DX3S which has the same features as the DX3R but also adds TELEMETRY!! that is viewable from the LED screen on the radio. It's also cheaper at $249.00 than the DX3R which was $319.00 when I brought it. That will be my next big purchase after I refresh my tire inventory.
The main selling point for me is that they share 80% of their parts which is a HUGE costs savings. So realisticaly if you drop about $450 initially to get your spare parts warchest together then you're covered for breakage on 80% of both vehicles which is crucial during racetime if you run both classes like I do. Also if you're running only one class then you can cannabalize one car to get parts for the other if you're in a pinch.
The DX3R is an OUTSTANDING radio as far weight, ergonomics, and the sheer mountain of tunability it offers. However, Spectum has just released the DX3S which has the same features as the DX3R but also adds TELEMETRY!! that is viewable from the LED screen on the radio. It's also cheaper at $249.00 than the DX3R which was $319.00 when I brought it. That will be my next big purchase after I refresh my tire inventory.
10-24-2008, 06:27 AM
#20
hard to say, xray mugen hb all have new cars out and all are working on truggies. i did run jammin for a year and they are ok but after running the mugen for the last two seasons i see the parts last longer so the mugen costs less to run and has more adjustments to fine tune the setup. my buddy has the xray and i really like the way it drives but i dont know how the parts will holdup and xray in the past has had a problem with parts availability. we had two guys from our track that got picked up by cen and they both gave up and went with a diff manf. i've driven many losi and ae cars and i didnt care for them but im sure the new 2.0 losi is much better than the old car.
not bashing any of these cars but if i had to buy my cars i would go with the
1 mugen
2 xray
3 jammin
4 tell billy i said hi
not bashing any of these cars but if i had to buy my cars i would go with the
1 mugen
2 xray
3 jammin
4 tell billy i said hi
10-24-2008, 06:32 AM
#21
I like the jammin series, some of the best shocks and durable vehicles out there. Xray is great, but you get into kyosho money at that point. My question if cost is an issue, why not just buy one kit, master it, and then decide what you want as a second vehicle, save some cash for tires, travel, and hotel rooms so you can really get some wheel time in.
10-24-2008, 06:32 AM
#22
Since no one has hit the CEN stuff I will give you a little info on it.
I have been running the FRE Buggy for a little over two years now and I can say it is a very durable buggy. I have had minimal parts failures, even after some pretty hairy crashes with it. I would recommend anyone looking at this Trix to get a CNC upper bell crank as the stock plastic one doesnt hold up very well.
I might also add the CEN is getting ready to release a new buggy. The R2 RTR is suppose to start shipping within the next couple of weeks and the kit is to follow in about a month. The new R2 buggy has several upgrades over the old C1 and FRE buggy. It features lightened drive shafts, new harden bevel gears, lightened and harden out drives, one piece radio tray, new lightened diff housings, lightened CNC shock towers for the R2 kit, new chasis composite chasis braces, etc.... The geometery is suppose to be based around the older C1 chasis with minor improvements to give the buggy a more aggressive feel but still maintain the stability of the older C1 and FRE.
As far as the truggy goes I have heard several people that actually prefer the preformance of the RTR over the FRE due to a greater amount of chasis flex which gives the RTR more steering and handling on rough tracks. The FRE truggy is suppose to shine on a high byte , smooth track but can still preform well on others.
In both cases the Buggy and truggy , C1 and FRE versions, drive much better with the cross pin diff conversion. The original models were shipped with LSD diffs and didnt work real well unless you ran on a high byte track. The current C1 and FRE truggy and buggy are shipping with a cross pin conversion already installed. So if you decide to go the CEN route make sure you are getting a kit with the crosspin diffs.
The buggy drives quite well. I would put it somewhere between the Losi and Mugen. It has the turning ability of the Losi but is a lot more forgiving like the Mugen. There are a couple options with the chasis for the buggy so you can make the car twitchy, if you like the agressive handling of an on road car, or you can calm it down for a more stable turning car like the mugen. This is done through the chasis plate. You can get the S or L chasis. The difference between the two chasis is the overall length. The the L chasis is about an inch longer than the S.
The buggy flies very well and takes mid air corrections extremely well. There is no problem raising or lowering the nose of the car with a little throttle correction. The buggy will fly very level with no issues but minor inputs from the user can nose the car over or up for landings. The lateral movement of the car is very good as well. I ran an indoor track a couple years back and one of the things I liked about the Matrix was how well I could jump a long double and actually slightly turn the car in mid air in preperation for a sharp corner after the landing.
The overall wear on the parts is minimal. I never had issues with bearing wear or bushing failures. The only thing I really recommend changing is the upper bell crank. As I stated above this is the weak link in the buggy and truggy. Once you get it replaced you will find you actually pick up some additional steering that you didnt have with the plastic crank. You will see your vehicle turn quicker due to the reduction is the bell crank flex.
I wouldnt be scared of running the CEN products as parts are readily availibel from most hobby shops. Granted the parts may not be on the shelf but they can usually be had in a couple days time. The cost of the parts of very minimal when compared to several other vehicles out there. I actually decided to purchase the CEN's based on the price of the replacement parts. In the two years I have been running the FRE Buggy I have only had to replace the left front A-Arm once, upper bell crank to a CNC, and the front and rear diff housings once. Both the A-arm and diff housing replacements came after some hard crashes. I snapped the A-arm when I got pushed into a pipe and the both the diff housings had to be replaced at a RC Pro Series race when I got tangled with some guys in the air and my ride cartwheeled down the back stretch for a good 20ft.
As far as your servo's go I have to say that JR servos have been doing a great job for me. They are a little pricey but the preformance you get and the way they stand behind the product is second to none.
If you want to save a little money on the servo's I would also recommend the ACE servos. I have been running a couple of these in my truggy and they have been preforming flawlessly over the last 6 months.
Hope some of this helps.
I have been running the FRE Buggy for a little over two years now and I can say it is a very durable buggy. I have had minimal parts failures, even after some pretty hairy crashes with it. I would recommend anyone looking at this Trix to get a CNC upper bell crank as the stock plastic one doesnt hold up very well.
I might also add the CEN is getting ready to release a new buggy. The R2 RTR is suppose to start shipping within the next couple of weeks and the kit is to follow in about a month. The new R2 buggy has several upgrades over the old C1 and FRE buggy. It features lightened drive shafts, new harden bevel gears, lightened and harden out drives, one piece radio tray, new lightened diff housings, lightened CNC shock towers for the R2 kit, new chasis composite chasis braces, etc.... The geometery is suppose to be based around the older C1 chasis with minor improvements to give the buggy a more aggressive feel but still maintain the stability of the older C1 and FRE.
As far as the truggy goes I have heard several people that actually prefer the preformance of the RTR over the FRE due to a greater amount of chasis flex which gives the RTR more steering and handling on rough tracks. The FRE truggy is suppose to shine on a high byte , smooth track but can still preform well on others.
In both cases the Buggy and truggy , C1 and FRE versions, drive much better with the cross pin diff conversion. The original models were shipped with LSD diffs and didnt work real well unless you ran on a high byte track. The current C1 and FRE truggy and buggy are shipping with a cross pin conversion already installed. So if you decide to go the CEN route make sure you are getting a kit with the crosspin diffs.
The buggy drives quite well. I would put it somewhere between the Losi and Mugen. It has the turning ability of the Losi but is a lot more forgiving like the Mugen. There are a couple options with the chasis for the buggy so you can make the car twitchy, if you like the agressive handling of an on road car, or you can calm it down for a more stable turning car like the mugen. This is done through the chasis plate. You can get the S or L chasis. The difference between the two chasis is the overall length. The the L chasis is about an inch longer than the S.
The buggy flies very well and takes mid air corrections extremely well. There is no problem raising or lowering the nose of the car with a little throttle correction. The buggy will fly very level with no issues but minor inputs from the user can nose the car over or up for landings. The lateral movement of the car is very good as well. I ran an indoor track a couple years back and one of the things I liked about the Matrix was how well I could jump a long double and actually slightly turn the car in mid air in preperation for a sharp corner after the landing.
The overall wear on the parts is minimal. I never had issues with bearing wear or bushing failures. The only thing I really recommend changing is the upper bell crank. As I stated above this is the weak link in the buggy and truggy. Once you get it replaced you will find you actually pick up some additional steering that you didnt have with the plastic crank. You will see your vehicle turn quicker due to the reduction is the bell crank flex.
I wouldnt be scared of running the CEN products as parts are readily availibel from most hobby shops. Granted the parts may not be on the shelf but they can usually be had in a couple days time. The cost of the parts of very minimal when compared to several other vehicles out there. I actually decided to purchase the CEN's based on the price of the replacement parts. In the two years I have been running the FRE Buggy I have only had to replace the left front A-Arm once, upper bell crank to a CNC, and the front and rear diff housings once. Both the A-arm and diff housing replacements came after some hard crashes. I snapped the A-arm when I got pushed into a pipe and the both the diff housings had to be replaced at a RC Pro Series race when I got tangled with some guys in the air and my ride cartwheeled down the back stretch for a good 20ft.
As far as your servo's go I have to say that JR servos have been doing a great job for me. They are a little pricey but the preformance you get and the way they stand behind the product is second to none.
If you want to save a little money on the servo's I would also recommend the ACE servos. I have been running a couple of these in my truggy and they have been preforming flawlessly over the last 6 months.
Hope some of this helps.
Last edited by NeoNot; 10-24-2008 at 07:26 AM.
10-24-2008, 06:42 AM
#23
http://www.hotbodiesonline.com/kit.p...=67300&lang=en
THE NEW D8 MIGHT BE WORTH A LOOK, IT DID WIN THE WORLDS
THE NEW D8 MIGHT BE WORTH A LOOK, IT DID WIN THE WORLDS
10-24-2008, 06:55 AM
#24
Tech Elite
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Fort Worth, Texas, USA, North America, Earth, Solar System, Milky Way Galaxy, Universe
Posts: 4,034
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Kyosho is out of the question, because though I make decent money I am not rich.
Choices are: (top to bottom has no reluvance just how i typed them)
AE
Mugen Seiki
Losi
CEN
Jammin'
Here's my take on this: First, let me say I'm not a very good driver, I hit a lot of stuff.
I've owned a OFNA 9.5 (crap) Mugen MBX5 ProSpec (tough as nails, handles like a dump truck- great beginner car, but hard to make it turn) Losi 8ight (fast, nimble, inexpensive, but "edgy" to drive) and a Jammin X1CR in buggies. I currently race only Truggy, and have an X1CRT. We have a LOT of local Xray drivers, and several AE drivers, although I've never driven either of the buggies. I've driven the Xray XT8 truggy and the old Xray XB8.
My "teammates" have driven the Xray 808 and the AE buggy, so I'll post what I can. So... here goes, in the order you posted:
AE: The buggy has THE most explosive acceleration of any of the cars you listed. It is VERY nimble, and seems to be stable in the rough, even without "Super Big Bore" shocks. The Jammin shocks will fit, and AE just came out with their own upgrades. They originally had some issues with leaky fuel tanks, but that appears to be fixed. There were also a few other issues, but the cars come with an "upgrade package" IN the box now. The truggy looks equally good, the local guys driving them are cleaning house with them. It is simple to set up- frankly there are not a lot of adjustment options. (buggy AND truggy.)
Mugen: I know ONE person with the new MBX6. I've looked it over, and quality looks top-notch, as expected for Mugen. The older cars were VERY stable and forgiving, but it was difficult to get rid of the tendacy to push. No new truggy yet, and the truggy has the same issue- a very pronounced push. Probably THE toughest of the tough when it comes to surviving crashes, with the possible exception being Xray. I firmly believe that the old MBX5 and MBX5T are THE BEST BEGINNER VEHICLES MADE. However, given that you come from a background of quick, agile onroad cars, this is probably not the choice for you. The new MBX6 might be however. It is a radical departure from the old MBX5 series. Slender, lightweight, nimble like the Losi and Xray.
Losi: Probably THE most nimble and aggressive on handling. VERY edgy, it will bite you if you push it hard. Parts wear is a bit excessive in my opinion, in particular the bushings for the front ackerman plate, and in the arms. The truggy has a VERY pronounced tendacy to eat rear ring and pinion gears, and the buggy less so but still unfavorable. Diff cases wear grooves in the crosspin area rapidly and have to be upgraded to the "heavy duty" cases with metal inserts to reduce that... in particular the center diff wears fast. It has a tendacy to spin the CVD crosspins on the front and rear out, even with locktite and obscene amounts of torque applied to the setscrews. To put it bluntly, it is a GREAT racecar for a driver with quick reflexes and who is smooth on the controls, and who likes to work on his equipment all the time- it is what I would call a "maintanance whore." On the plus side, parts are VERY inexpensive.
CEN: Sorry, I have no personal experience with this one at all, I don't personally know anyone who drives or has driven one.
Jammin: My personall favorite, but that is just exactly that, because it suits both my budget AND driving style and ability. I've owned both the X1CR and currently the X1CRT. The Jammin is VERY stable and forgiving, almost as much so as the Mugen, without the tendacy to push. It can ALMOST turn with the Losi, Xray, and Associated, it's very close, but it is a bit heavier and more sluggish on acceleration- I'd say it is a little less "athletic" than those 3. Parts wear is medium- not bad, but the plastics are a little soft so you have to be careful not to strip the screw holes in the "bulkheads," differential cases, and radio tray, and the arms develop slop faster than anything but the Losi. Fortunately parts are, like the Losi, inexpensive and readily available. I haven't driven the X2 CRT yet, but it appears to to be better all around with a lower center of gravity, weight moved more to the centerline for better stability, and better acceleration. The X2 buggy is about to be released, and there WILL be an upgrade kit from the X1 to the X2.
Xray: At first glance the 808 looks like a Losi clone, but it has MUCH better durability and a little more stability and traction, without giving up the ability to turn or the "athletic" acceleration. Nobody matches Xray on parts quality, period, not even Kyosho which is considerably more expensive. The only issue I have heard of with the Xray is rapid wear on the pinion bearings- but who cares about a $1 part? I've driven the XT8 truggy, (no 808 truggy yet!) and it is as nimble and aggressive as most buggies, but with more traction... that truggy absolutely rocks!
So, to summarize, here is a little chart: 1 best, higher is not as good, ranking the listed options + the Xray in order... note that in some cases #1 to #3 or #4 may be a very close thing- this is just ranking them in order based on my personal observatons: (Note that I'm only ranking the buggies, but the truggies from the same manufacturer pretty much follow suit.) No CEN ranking, I don't have any experience there.
Buggy Acceleration Turning Stability Durabilty Maint$
AE 1 3 3 4 4
Mugen 5 4 1 2 1
Losi 2(tie) 1(tie) 5 5 5
CEN * * * * *
Jammin 4 5 2 3 2
Xray 2 (tie) 1(tie) 4 1 3
Again, those are just my personal observations and experience. I'm sure some folks will disagree with some of it at the very least. I hope it is at least somewhat helpful to you.
Choices are: (top to bottom has no reluvance just how i typed them)
AE
Mugen Seiki
Losi
CEN
Jammin'
Here's my take on this: First, let me say I'm not a very good driver, I hit a lot of stuff.
I've owned a OFNA 9.5 (crap) Mugen MBX5 ProSpec (tough as nails, handles like a dump truck- great beginner car, but hard to make it turn) Losi 8ight (fast, nimble, inexpensive, but "edgy" to drive) and a Jammin X1CR in buggies. I currently race only Truggy, and have an X1CRT. We have a LOT of local Xray drivers, and several AE drivers, although I've never driven either of the buggies. I've driven the Xray XT8 truggy and the old Xray XB8.
My "teammates" have driven the Xray 808 and the AE buggy, so I'll post what I can. So... here goes, in the order you posted:
AE: The buggy has THE most explosive acceleration of any of the cars you listed. It is VERY nimble, and seems to be stable in the rough, even without "Super Big Bore" shocks. The Jammin shocks will fit, and AE just came out with their own upgrades. They originally had some issues with leaky fuel tanks, but that appears to be fixed. There were also a few other issues, but the cars come with an "upgrade package" IN the box now. The truggy looks equally good, the local guys driving them are cleaning house with them. It is simple to set up- frankly there are not a lot of adjustment options. (buggy AND truggy.)
Mugen: I know ONE person with the new MBX6. I've looked it over, and quality looks top-notch, as expected for Mugen. The older cars were VERY stable and forgiving, but it was difficult to get rid of the tendacy to push. No new truggy yet, and the truggy has the same issue- a very pronounced push. Probably THE toughest of the tough when it comes to surviving crashes, with the possible exception being Xray. I firmly believe that the old MBX5 and MBX5T are THE BEST BEGINNER VEHICLES MADE. However, given that you come from a background of quick, agile onroad cars, this is probably not the choice for you. The new MBX6 might be however. It is a radical departure from the old MBX5 series. Slender, lightweight, nimble like the Losi and Xray.
Losi: Probably THE most nimble and aggressive on handling. VERY edgy, it will bite you if you push it hard. Parts wear is a bit excessive in my opinion, in particular the bushings for the front ackerman plate, and in the arms. The truggy has a VERY pronounced tendacy to eat rear ring and pinion gears, and the buggy less so but still unfavorable. Diff cases wear grooves in the crosspin area rapidly and have to be upgraded to the "heavy duty" cases with metal inserts to reduce that... in particular the center diff wears fast. It has a tendacy to spin the CVD crosspins on the front and rear out, even with locktite and obscene amounts of torque applied to the setscrews. To put it bluntly, it is a GREAT racecar for a driver with quick reflexes and who is smooth on the controls, and who likes to work on his equipment all the time- it is what I would call a "maintanance whore." On the plus side, parts are VERY inexpensive.
CEN: Sorry, I have no personal experience with this one at all, I don't personally know anyone who drives or has driven one.
Jammin: My personall favorite, but that is just exactly that, because it suits both my budget AND driving style and ability. I've owned both the X1CR and currently the X1CRT. The Jammin is VERY stable and forgiving, almost as much so as the Mugen, without the tendacy to push. It can ALMOST turn with the Losi, Xray, and Associated, it's very close, but it is a bit heavier and more sluggish on acceleration- I'd say it is a little less "athletic" than those 3. Parts wear is medium- not bad, but the plastics are a little soft so you have to be careful not to strip the screw holes in the "bulkheads," differential cases, and radio tray, and the arms develop slop faster than anything but the Losi. Fortunately parts are, like the Losi, inexpensive and readily available. I haven't driven the X2 CRT yet, but it appears to to be better all around with a lower center of gravity, weight moved more to the centerline for better stability, and better acceleration. The X2 buggy is about to be released, and there WILL be an upgrade kit from the X1 to the X2.
Xray: At first glance the 808 looks like a Losi clone, but it has MUCH better durability and a little more stability and traction, without giving up the ability to turn or the "athletic" acceleration. Nobody matches Xray on parts quality, period, not even Kyosho which is considerably more expensive. The only issue I have heard of with the Xray is rapid wear on the pinion bearings- but who cares about a $1 part? I've driven the XT8 truggy, (no 808 truggy yet!) and it is as nimble and aggressive as most buggies, but with more traction... that truggy absolutely rocks!
So, to summarize, here is a little chart: 1 best, higher is not as good, ranking the listed options + the Xray in order... note that in some cases #1 to #3 or #4 may be a very close thing- this is just ranking them in order based on my personal observatons: (Note that I'm only ranking the buggies, but the truggies from the same manufacturer pretty much follow suit.) No CEN ranking, I don't have any experience there.
Buggy Acceleration Turning Stability Durabilty Maint$
AE 1 3 3 4 4
Mugen 5 4 1 2 1
Losi 2(tie) 1(tie) 5 5 5
CEN * * * * *
Jammin 4 5 2 3 2
Xray 2 (tie) 1(tie) 4 1 3
Again, those are just my personal observations and experience. I'm sure some folks will disagree with some of it at the very least. I hope it is at least somewhat helpful to you.
10-24-2008, 08:32 AM
#25
Tech Master
iTrader: (11)
LOL @ Domit. Most of the Losi stuff is either fixed or fixable. Heat shrink CVD condoms, haven't lost a pin yet. HD diff cases I already told you about. Haven't had a ring and pinion problem yet, but careful about shimming. The new 8ight 2.0 will allow you to shim both gears. Ackerman plate gets sloppy, but doesn't affect the car that much. There are aftermarket fixes. Handling can be tamed down some with setup, but it really is for drivers that like a quick car.
RC8- Big bore hopup is $125. Nearly everyone is going the steering mod to get it to turn like the 8ight. Good car, seems to be pretty tough.
MBX6- Three guys here with them, all very happy. Haven't gotten to race them yet in person, saw one vid, car looked very good.
808- The ones down here look great, but the guys driving them could wheel a Duratrax and win with it. Seems to hold up well. Only drawbacks I've heard are the small bearings (replace frequently to keep from blowing) and the fact you can't run shock boots.
MP9- Sell your house to buy one. I raced against one a couple weeks ago. Only saw it in the rear view, LOL, but he had just gotten the car and was still working on setup. Had a problem with the wheel nuts, he had to Dremel them off. It looked like it actually deformed the metal on the axles when he tightened them. Not sure if it's a problem or he just overtightened, but I've never seen it happen to any of his other cars.
Jammin- Domit drives one, what more needs to be said? HA ha ha ha ha.
Have fun, LOL. Like I said, I'd try to run a couple before I plunked down hard earned cash on it.
RC8- Big bore hopup is $125. Nearly everyone is going the steering mod to get it to turn like the 8ight. Good car, seems to be pretty tough.
MBX6- Three guys here with them, all very happy. Haven't gotten to race them yet in person, saw one vid, car looked very good.
808- The ones down here look great, but the guys driving them could wheel a Duratrax and win with it. Seems to hold up well. Only drawbacks I've heard are the small bearings (replace frequently to keep from blowing) and the fact you can't run shock boots.
MP9- Sell your house to buy one. I raced against one a couple weeks ago. Only saw it in the rear view, LOL, but he had just gotten the car and was still working on setup. Had a problem with the wheel nuts, he had to Dremel them off. It looked like it actually deformed the metal on the axles when he tightened them. Not sure if it's a problem or he just overtightened, but I've never seen it happen to any of his other cars.
Jammin- Domit drives one, what more needs to be said? HA ha ha ha ha.
Have fun, LOL. Like I said, I'd try to run a couple before I plunked down hard earned cash on it.
10-24-2008, 10:41 AM
#26
Wow where to begin.
First of all, thank you everyone for the extensive reports/ responses to help me out with this tough time. I believe I am looking strongly at the Associated line this weekend. I have always liked AE, and it seems to be they still are top notch. After this weekend I am going to watch those guys that are racing the 2 classes, and make my decision from there. My big thing is I want to have fun, and I cant choose between teh two to jump into, but at the same time, I am turning to offroad for a more relaxed environment. I am done wrenching all day in between rounds to chase a setup that will go with the ever changing track conditions that Onroad gives to us. I am young at 24, but I like to have a good time, throw parts in the trailor when I get angry(tell me one person who doesn't love to do this, and ill tell you he/she lies), drink my MT. DEW (cheap plug I NEED SPONSORS! >.>), and just have a great time with a bunch of people that share my common interest.
If I go there this weekend and realize running two classes right out of the gates is going to be to time consuming, then I will be with the toiugh choice of buggy or truggy. Probably leaning more towards truggy, but never know.
Thank you again everybody,
Brandon
First of all, thank you everyone for the extensive reports/ responses to help me out with this tough time. I believe I am looking strongly at the Associated line this weekend. I have always liked AE, and it seems to be they still are top notch. After this weekend I am going to watch those guys that are racing the 2 classes, and make my decision from there. My big thing is I want to have fun, and I cant choose between teh two to jump into, but at the same time, I am turning to offroad for a more relaxed environment. I am done wrenching all day in between rounds to chase a setup that will go with the ever changing track conditions that Onroad gives to us. I am young at 24, but I like to have a good time, throw parts in the trailor when I get angry(tell me one person who doesn't love to do this, and ill tell you he/she lies), drink my MT. DEW (cheap plug I NEED SPONSORS! >.>), and just have a great time with a bunch of people that share my common interest.
If I go there this weekend and realize running two classes right out of the gates is going to be to time consuming, then I will be with the toiugh choice of buggy or truggy. Probably leaning more towards truggy, but never know.
Thank you again everybody,
Brandon
10-24-2008, 12:40 PM
#29
I used to always run two nitro classes. Got very tiring and always running around. Now I like to run 1/8 buggy and modified truck. Brushless and lipo batts have finally made me quit running the gas truck. It's so nice to just plug and play. I don't even practice with the truck, I know I never have to tune it, and with the lipo I only need one batt and just recharge btw rounds.
Plus I just let my T4 ride dirty.. lol, it only gets maintained if it breaks, or if a shock looks like it's leaking. : )~
Plus I just let my T4 ride dirty.. lol, it only gets maintained if it breaks, or if a shock looks like it's leaking. : )~
10-24-2008, 12:54 PM
#30
Tech Adept
Euro Stealth. You are going to need 100 eyeballs to watch all your car prospects this weekend!!!!