shibby3030

I'm looking to get back into the hobby and would like some input on this:

http://www.hobbypeople.net/gallery/383281.asp

Associated RC8RS 1/8 RTR Nitro Buggy
RC8RS 1/8 RTR Nitro Buggy from Associated Electric

The RC8RS "Race Spec" RTR (Ready-to-Run) is based on the Factory Team RC8, making for the only 1/8-scale buggy with the high-performance qualities that can live up to Team Associateds toughest standards.

The fully assembled and ready-to-run RC8RS features include:
# Team Associated's Powerful .28 Pro Engine
# Pro-Start Hand-Held Starting System
# Painted and Mounted Body With Custom Graphic Decal Kit
# S2008 Metal Gear Steering Servo and S1903 Throttle Servo
# Hard-Anodized 3mm 7075 Aluminum Chassis
# Team Associated 2-Chamber Muffler
# Sealed Radio Box With Thread-Through Molded Antenna Mount
# Fuel Bottle
# 3mm Low-Profile Black Anodized Aluminum Shock Towers
# Mounted Team Associated Tires and Molded Inserts On Dish Wheels
# Hard-Anodized Shock Bodies With Pre-Load Clips, 4mm Shock Shafts, Composite Shock Caps
# XP3D Computerized Digital 3-Channel FM Radio System with 10 Model Memory
# 3mm Black Anodized Aluminum Steering Rack With Ball-Bearing Steering System


all for $560

is this a good price? if not, where can I get a good deal? how are the RTR kits? any immediate upgrades needed? I plan to first drive around for fun then look into joining some races for fun. thanks for the help

ehartman_49348

iTrader: (27)

The AE RC8 RTR is a great buggy if you are planning on getting into racing. I have been running the FT version all year and love the way it handles. Once you get the buggy, you will not need any immediate upgrades. Surprisingly, we ended up putting RTR parts on our FT buggies, like the shock caps, chassis braces and center diff cover! You do want to get a 5-cell receiver pack with charger right away instead of using AA batteries!

Once you are getting comfortable with the RC8 and want to start racing, I would recommend you look into the following options to purchase:
* Starter box
* Backplate for the RTR engine (OS VG backplate fits, I believe)
* Different exhaust (JP3 seems to work pretty well with the RTR engine)
* Different tires that suite your local track

And when you get really serious about racing, you might want to consider getting a .21 engine and big bore shocks, but that is not an immediate need.

I hope that helps a little.

jbrow1

iTrader: (28)

If the VG is a goofy size like the os .21 rg was then it should work. The
rtr .28 is a funny 6 bolt head and not standard size backplate. I put the rg backplate on mine. Would have to measure a vg to see, but I think it is the standard size rather than the bigger size like rg and the rtr engine.

The rtr engine is a good engine. Once ya get it tuned right it gets decent mileage, great power, and is a cheap engine for the longevity and performance you get from it. Good for club racing but you'd need a .21 if you go to any bigger races that tech the cars or enforce the roar rules.

ehartman_49348

iTrader: (27)

We found that the engine is a lot better to tune and has a lot better mileage by using a JP3 pipe.

jbrow1

iTrader: (28)

Even compared to the AE FT pipe? All the engines I ran the two pipes on seem to be about the same, with the ft pipe feeling just a bit smoother. I almost put the JP3 on for this weekend, but didn't. Maybe I'll try it after all.

ehartman_49348

iTrader: (27)

We haven't tried the FT (2035) pipe on the RTR engine, just the JP3 pipe. Either pipe would probably work better on the RTR engine than the stock RTR pipe, which is too restricted. Fine for just bashing, but not for racing. I have seen several people struggle to make 5 minutes on a tank with the stock pipe...

jbrow1

iTrader: (28)

Haha, it is a peculiar engine. I have been running the FT pipe, but did just go put the jp3 on for this weekend after all. I read where some have been saying the jp3 has just a bit better runtime.

When I had tanks that were bad and I didn't know it for a bit.. That engine would need filled exactly before the start, and it would be fumes at the end of the qualie (5min).

With good tanks in it, and thus a proper tune I can get ten minutes while practicing and that goes down to right around 7 minutes or less hard racing. I did do some work on the sleeve, but can't compare it to stock as it never had a good tank when it was stock so the times from then are moot.

If I don't get rid of it soon, I will be trying a different 2 needle carb and see how that does. Have to make an adapter for it I think though.

T$

I got my RC8RS last spring and have been very happy with it.

I now have a starter box and was thinking about trying to just take the one-way bearing out of the stock rotostart backplate. From what I can see, it seems like this should work. All it would change is to remove the piece that the cranshaft has to spin when the engine is running. Theoretically this should translate to less drag on the engine. And the piece I'd be removing doesn't really hold anything together.

Any thoughts on why this may not work, or has anyone tried this?

Thanks.

ehartman_49348

iTrader: (27)

The OS RG backplate should be a direct fit. You would remove drag as well as creating a more consistant tune. A Ninja B01A backplate fits as well, but you will have to shim it a little bit.

shibby3030

thanks so much for the replies so far. I think i'm gonna go with the rc8 RTR after all.

is $560 a good deal for the stuff I get? know where i can get it cheaper elsewhere?

tony montana

iTrader: (76)

try tiltedrc.com, I dont think he has any in stock but he can probaly get it in a day or two. I bet he will beat that 560.00 price for you. Just drop him a email on the site. And they are very good to deal with