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Old 10-20-2008, 04:39 PM   #16
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you may also consider taking off the back plate and putting a tiny touch of spray lithium grease in there ...i do this on all my motors now .....the only problem i had was if you put to much you will loose that first glow plug ...but if you put a tiny bit ...it can help during that first viscious cycle when you first crank it up ......on the spare parts ....arms , shock shafts , shock rebuilds ...the diffs are rock solid and should come 7/5/1 from the factory ...having raced the turmoil for a full year in my first year ...i can tell ya you have got a super durable ride there ....a few things you might consider ....take the front sway bar off ...the sportwerks line doesnt steer very well ...and removing the front sway bar will help it greatly ...also you may notice it had tons of bump steer .....if you take about a 10 mm shim ...i used some kinda shock spacers for a mini 18th scale .....and space the turnbuckles at the ackerman plate further down ...this will reduce some of the bump steer ..and make it better all around ......shameless plug here ...a buddy of mine just gave me 2 sportwerks turmoils ....1 rtr pretty much with an os vg .21 ...the other a roller mising a few minor parts ...and a butt load of n.i.p. spare parts ... should have a thread up on the for sale section in a few days ...oh and it also comes with a spektrum dx2.0 and rx and rx pack .......pm me if you have any questions about the tur/may .. i have run the gambit on them having raced one for my first full year in nitro ...a few years back ...lol .......later
Thanks for all the info. My car should be here from UPS Wednesday. This will give me a good idea of things to do before I put her on the track. This race season is about to rap up in a couple of weeks so I'll have a decent amount of time to get things setup.
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Old 10-20-2008, 05:29 PM   #17
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The info zixxer gave you is what you're looking for. All the cars have their own little quirks and he's given you a head start. If you need any more help (or if my finger shows up) just let us know, LOL.
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Old 10-20-2008, 05:49 PM   #18
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Thanks for all the info. My car should be here from UPS Wednesday. This will give me a good idea of things to do before I put her on the track. This race season is about to rap up in a couple of weeks so I'll have a decent amount of time to get things setup.

yeh you should have plenty of time ....np ......i also remeber running the stock springs and 45 wt losi up front and 40 wt losi in the rear ....i think i ended up running um 5/5/3 in the diffs ...less in the rear if it need to come around some more .....also is it a bump start motor mount ? if its rtr motor mount for the roto start ....you will want to get the pro mount ....and dont be surprised if you to take a good bit of material off the chassis where the flywheel is exposed ....at one point i thought i was gonna mess up the structural integrity of the chassis ...but i made it work ....with no consequences ....also you may want to upgrade the shock shafts to the ti-ni coated options ...and they also make a hinge pin upgrade in ti-ni ...it really does make a difference on smoothness of operation .....oh and most important ...if its new or not ....every screw that doesnt screw into plastic ...including nylok nuts ....be sure to lock tight them ....trust me it was one of the biggest complaints about the vehicle .......later
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Old 10-21-2008, 06:21 AM   #19
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A couple of tips for you:

1) FOLLOW THE BREAK IN PROCEDURES FOR THE ENGINE! Don't just start it, throw it on the ground, and "let 'er rip." The engine will last MUCH longer if properly broken in.

2) If (or should I say when?) you start to see wear in the crosspin area in the diff cases... replace them with the Losi heavy duty diff cases. They are a direct fit. Losi and Sportwerks diff cases are identical- the heavy duty Losi diff cases have a metal insert to reduce wear in that area.

3) Someone said to remove the front swaybar. I disagree. Go to the hobby shop and get a couple of pieces of "music wire" in various diameters from about 1.8 up to 2.3 mm diameter, and bend them to match the swaybar and cut to length. Removing the front swaybar WILL give you more steering, but it sacrifices stability over bumps. I did that with my Mugen (and the Sportwerks car is virtually a Mugen clone.) It turned GREAT with no front bar, but got upset in the rough.

You can stiffen the rear by moving the end links on the bar in. IN is stiffer, OUT is softer, so there is some tuneability with the existing bar... move the rear ones in a bit, and put a smaller bar on the front with the ends all the way out. Start with about a 1.9 or 2.0 mm bar on the front, and adjust from there.

3) The bump steer tip is good!

4) The diff fluid weight tip is good. 5-7-1 (5k front, 7k middle, 1k rear) will be pretty aggressive, better for an experienced driver. 5-5-3 is probably a good beginner setup... 5-5-1 will give you more steering (yes, it really does matter!) but the 7k in the center will make the car harder to drive. The very first thing I would do to the car is remove the center diff, dump the 7k diff fluid, and put 5k in it.

5) That is a "pivot ball" car I think. Be sure to lubricate the pivot balls regularly with WD-40 or lithium grease (it is available in spray cans too.) Keep those properly snugged down so they aren't sloppy, but not tight enough that there is ANY hint of bind. For that matter lubricate ALL of the various suspension pivot points, steering linkage ends, etc. It will work smoother and last longer.

6) Make sure your clutch mesh is set properly. Take a strip of paper and run it between the teeth on the clutch bell and the teeth on the spur gear... then set the motor position so it is tight. Pull out the paper and your mesh will be just about as perfect as you can get it.

And hit up "TEX" on here. He's a wealth of information on RC cars in general, and on these cars in particular. If TEX says ANYTHING about this car that conflicts with what I told you... listen to TEX, ignore me.
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Old 10-21-2008, 01:16 PM   #20
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Thanks for all the tips guys. I'm glad I'm learning alot of this prior to even having the car in my possesion, it comes UPS tomorrow! This will save me alot of grief in regards to setup and general settings. I'll spend the rest of the week familiarizing myself with the inner workings of the car and applying loc-tite to all specified parts. Also, on that note of tightening screws and bolts I heard a guy say on another site that he used liquid electrical tape on his screws that screwed into plastic. Has anyone heard of this and if so is this a wise thing to do or will it cause problems if you ever have to remove those screws. Anyways, thanks for the tips and suggestions gonna prob start the break-in process Saturday morning so wish me luck.
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Old 10-21-2008, 01:57 PM   #21
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I don't put anything on screws that go into plastic. Be sure that you use blue Loctite for metal to metal, not red. Red loctite will cause more problems thatn it solves.
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Old 10-21-2008, 01:58 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by shadey10 View Post
I'll spend the rest of the week familiarizing myself with the inner workings of the car and applying loc-tite to all specified parts. Also, on that note of tightening screws and bolts I heard a guy say on another site that he used liquid electrical tape on his screws that screwed into plastic.
I use thin CA when screwing into plastic. The first time you screw into plastic, you won't need it. But whenever you take the screw out, use one drop of the CA then screw it back in, and it wont back out. This is a plastic helicopter trick and thoes see more high frequincy vibration than a car ever will.
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Old 10-21-2008, 02:09 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by shadey10 View Post
Thanks for all the tips guys. I'm glad I'm learning alot of this prior to even having the car in my possesion, it comes UPS tomorrow! This will save me alot of grief in regards to setup and general settings. I'll spend the rest of the week familiarizing myself with the inner workings of the car and applying loc-tite to all specified parts. Also, on that note of tightening screws and bolts I heard a guy say on another site that he used liquid electrical tape on his screws that screwed into plastic. Has anyone heard of this and if so is this a wise thing to do or will it cause problems if you ever have to remove those screws. Anyways, thanks for the tips and suggestions gonna prob start the break-in process Saturday morning so wish me luck.


Liquid electrical tape
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Old 10-21-2008, 07:29 PM   #24
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Liquid electrical tape

Sorry, see link below. I used to rebuild industrial electric motors so this was used frequently. I just assumed it was a common knowledge thing. This is good stuff for certain applications regarding electrical insulation.

http://www.plastidip.com/home_soluti...cal_Insulation
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Old 10-21-2008, 08:43 PM   #25
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Here's my Turmoil. I ran it a lot last year, but not so much this season. I'd agree with everything that's been said, especially the durability. I've only broken 2 chassis parts, a steering knuckle and a pivot ball stud. Rear wings, however, are a different story, since I seem to be "Captain Cartwheel" on the track. Several cracked wheels too. The original 26V2 engine served me well for 6-7 gallons, then the rod let go. One thing I don't think I saw mentioned was to make sure the air filter is secured well. You definitely don't want that coming off. I've never had a problem with the roto-start, or the one-way bearing in the engine as others have, so I'm happy to keep using it. I believe that TEX recommends a different pipe and a shorter header for better performance, but I haven't tried it yet.
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Old 10-22-2008, 06:11 AM   #26
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Pserve, have you tried the Proline wing? Dang near indestructible. If you're destroying those it's pretty impressive, LOL.
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Old 10-22-2008, 10:14 AM   #27
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Acutally, I did have a proline on there once, and it didn't last me very long... The current one is just a cheap integy that I picked up in a pinch. I think the Jconcepts will be next up when the time comes.
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Old 10-25-2008, 08:18 AM   #28
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A couple of tips for you:

1) FOLLOW THE BREAK IN PROCEDURES FOR THE ENGINE! Don't just start it, throw it on the ground, and "let 'er rip." The engine will last MUCH longer if properly broken in.
.

the instructions for the turmoil .26 motor say fill the tank start the motor and drop it on the ground and run it with much smoke coming out of the pipe to ensure the motor is running very rich ..run 3 tanks this way and your motor is now broken in and ready to be leaned out .....lolololol...what they dont tell you is that this will cause the internal parts to not expand and contract enough to break the internal parts in ...many manufacturers just use a generic break in procedure because they dont want to confuse new drivers and complicate things ...the best break in procedure is from the late ron paris ...who was arguably the best nitro motor tuner in rc .....

start car on bench with aluminum foil wrapped on the head
once car is running lean the top end needle until the head temp reaches 220-240 degrees
shut the vehicle off and bring piston to bdc
let cool to ambient temp
repeat 3 more times
then throw vehicle down and run it keeping temps at 220-240 ...
run 1 tank 1/4 throttle blips ...then one at 1/2 blips then one at 3/4 blips the one at full throttle blips ....never blip throttle for more than 1 second at a time ...run whole tanks and let cool to ambient temp in between each tank

it will take you all day but you will have a motor that is good and heat cycled ...which inmho id the most important thing.....just all my .02 worth
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