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Old 10-03-2008, 10:49 PM   #1
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Questions?? OS 10E Carb Leak?? Need Help please

Hello,

I have just recently purchased a OS max .15 CV engine for my stadium truck. I have completed break in and just now into the fine tuning stages. The engine has ran fine(as good as it could while breaking in) until today when I replaced the Cooling head and glow plug(replaced the stock os cooling head with an odonell which required a Mccoy 8 glow plug vs the os plug I was using due to the length of the plug). That probably has nothing to do with the carb issue other than I think it changed the mixture which would require some additional tuning.

The high and low end needles are not fully set but the engine kept dying after a few passes, so as I was going to adjust the low end I noticed some wetness around the boot directly behind the low end needle and then saw some bubbling between the boot and the carb body. Is there anything I can do to remedy this situation or am I stuck and need to replace the whole carb? If a new carb is needed is there a replacement carb that works for the OS max .15? I have done some initial research and believe that the carb is a 10e rotary but cannot seem to find one for sale. I did however find a listing for a Perry Carb which I was able to match up to the carb I believe is on my engine but since I know nothing about carbs I do not know if this is needed or even a wise purchase.

I am relatively new to the RC game and am learning everyday but this is my first carb issue and I need some assistance. Thanks in advance for helping a newb.

Last edited by RCFlee; 10-03-2008 at 11:51 PM.
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Old 10-04-2008, 07:49 AM   #2
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Keep the carb. The os carbs are the best in the business, especially on the smaller engines. I've never seen a small engine leak there, but you should check and make sure the boot is seated correctly. Really sounds like you should take it to the hobby shop and get some help though.

I'm betting though it's just still running very rich, which will make fuel come out of funny places. The os small block engines are some of the easiest running engines ever. And if it's the cv and not the cv-r don't bother breaking it in any longer, just tune it up and go play.

Also when you put the head on, did you make sure to take the head shim off the old head? They are almost impossible to see. You generally have to peel it off with an xacto knife if it doesn't fall right off. That could be part of your stalling problem too. And when you tightened the bolts, did you tighten in a criss cross pattern?
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Old 10-04-2008, 08:54 AM   #3
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Thank you for the reply!

It is the CV ( i think) It is not turbo if that is what the R means. I did reseat the boot and repositioned the return spring as it looked like it was pulling the throttle arm but anyway it is not bubbling there today after about 2 more tanks. Still trying to get the fine tuning down and watching it closely. I did get the shim off onto the new cooling head but did not do the crisscross pattern when tightening the screws.

Now for some reason it runs a few passes gets good and heated up and then it wants to die. I am adjusting the lowend as I believe the high end is set or at least close. Any suggestions?

Thanks again for all your help!
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Old 10-04-2008, 09:30 AM   #4
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Could be to rich on the bottom if it is wanting to die coming off the high speed run. Or you could just need to bump the idle up a bit by turning the idle screw in a hair.
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