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Old 10-05-2008, 11:51 AM   #61
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Tony has parts for sale on this site the for 6

all the parts are listed for less than 50% off of retail (dealer cost) get them while they are listed, they wont be up long and wont be returning

http://www.tonysscrews.com
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Old 10-05-2008, 02:10 PM   #62
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Good looking out Tony Screws....smart man.
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Old 10-05-2008, 02:12 PM   #63
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I already ordered my parts! Tony is the man with the master plan!
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Old 10-05-2008, 03:19 PM   #64
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CanyonCarverR1 View Post
There's no need to unplug it if you have it connected directly to a switch, the switch in effect unplugs it.


Ive seen different.



Quote:
Originally Posted by clarksib View Post
Integra, Correct me if i'm wrong but I think you meant that it is a good idea to disconnect the lipos even if theres a switch just to be absolutely sure the voltage doesnt drop bellow acceptable levels if the switch was accidentally left on.

i did say that....minus the switch part.


moot point anyways...u wnna talk Batteries PM me....Keep up the Awsome thread pasadena_z
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Old 10-05-2008, 05:15 PM   #65
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I will run my buggy Tuesday!!! Stay tuned for more pictures...
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Old 10-05-2008, 05:39 PM   #66
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surprised you guys dont seal those carbon bits with some CA or nail polish.

R
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Old 10-06-2008, 06:40 AM   #67
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surprised you guys dont seal those carbon bits with some CA or nail polish.

R
it really depends on the grade of crabon it is.....i got stuff from boeing that has done sooo many lid skids and the roll bar peice never wanted to delaminate....so unless they uses some Crap SSG composite...then sealing isn't really needed.
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Old 10-06-2008, 07:58 PM   #68
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Quote:
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surprised you guys dont seal those carbon bits with some CA or nail polish.

R
So seal it with CA...how do you apply it on?
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Old 10-06-2008, 08:08 PM   #69
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So seal it with CA...how do you apply it on?
put a drop on the edge and rotate the shock tower so it runs along the edge evenly. don't make the drop of glue too big or else it will run down the front or back of the shock tower onto your fingers.

use good CA glue or else it might dry white and ashy instead of clear.
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Old 10-06-2008, 11:35 PM   #70
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put a drop on the edge and rotate the shock tower so it runs along the edge evenly. don't make the drop of glue too big or else it will run down the front or back of the shock tower onto your fingers.

use good CA glue or else it might dry white and ashy instead of clear.
Will do..thank you sir...

Will be testing car at HotRods!!! All Day.
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Old 10-06-2008, 11:52 PM   #71
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Will do..thank you sir...

Will be testing car at HotRods!!! All Day.
Nice. I'll probably make it out and run 4wd mod, and be jealous of your car. Still thinking of buying the mbx6 or waiting for the hyper 9.
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Old 10-07-2008, 02:06 AM   #72
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Quote:
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The kit looks really nice.

You may want to check your "diff out drive shaft/cups" as I see from the picture there are no grooves in them to retain the grease to stop them seizing up.

I think I read some ware this is a fault in the manufacture and they should have been supplied with the grooves.

You may want to make some enquires.

not the case i posted re the diff outdrives and was waiting for more info which i have now, the outdrives no longer require the groove and is ok like that so dont worry about the lack of grooves they are meant to be like that
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Old 10-07-2008, 02:19 AM   #73
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soak a Q tip / cotton bud in ca then run this round the tower edges, you get an even application of ca and no runs anywhere, be quick as the ca will start to dry quick it might take a few tips per tower but it works and its clean, also once dry run a perm black marker around the edges to get the nice finish you see on the pro's cars.

p.s. i think you call them Q tips in the US

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Old 10-07-2008, 08:22 AM   #74
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See you at the track...I will report back tonight.

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Old 10-07-2008, 09:04 AM   #75
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pasadena_z can you check if the front and rear arms from the mbx6 can be used in the mb5?just check the lenght in the gearbox mounts.
thanks!
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