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Old 10-02-2008, 06:59 PM   #1
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Default RB questions

1. Why are there vendors listing the new engines as temporarily unavailable for the last few weeks?

2. What can I expect to pay for a piston/sleeve for the S5 L2G?

3. For as much as people like these engines, I know they cannot be perfect. What are some of the common issues I should expect if I get an S5 next season? I can't find any negative comments about RB other than isolated failures that were probably due to the user.
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Old 10-02-2008, 07:02 PM   #2
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i just bought a s3 l2g and just broke in.....i think the longevety it in the break-in procedure and the quality....a very long break in 9-10 tanks as to some witch only take 5-6tanks...and the carb adjust very easily...just my opinion...good luck
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Old 10-02-2008, 07:13 PM   #3
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I have ran several RB's and novarossi's, the front bearing is about the only weak link in them IMO. right now I am running a c6bb7t in my rc8, and a ws7-3 LG2 in my XT8. no bearing issues yet but I do have ceramic bearings on hand for both engines for when they decied to go bad.....ther then that they seem to like to run cooler then other engines. my piccos and v-spec liked 250-280 temps, as my RB's like the lower 200-220 temps.
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Old 10-02-2008, 07:58 PM   #4
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I have a C5 with 13 galons in it, the crank is now starting to wear on 25% nitro o'donnel fuel that I had 10 oz of synthetic/castor oil to a full galon, 2 C6lg2 about 3 galons and a S3 lg2 with 4 galons, just make shore when you stop the engine, it is on btc and you use after run oil (dexron with thin lub oil)
The higher oil percentage does not afect the performance that much all my motors keep up (they do smoke a litle more), now the C5 I have been trying to kill it for the last 2 weekends (with a normal race tune, not extremely lean)
but when it does... I will just buy another RB or OS.
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Old 10-02-2008, 10:40 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by blktransam View Post
they seem to like to run cooler then other engines. my piccos and v-spec liked 250-280 temps, as my RB's like the lower 200-220 temps.
Unusual. My S7 is happiest at about 245 - 255.
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Old 10-03-2008, 04:19 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bjr48 View Post
1. Why are there vendors listing the new engines as temporarily unavailable for the last few weeks?

2. What can I expect to pay for a piston/sleeve for the S5 L2G?

3. For as much as people like these engines, I know they cannot be perfect. What are some of the common issues I should expect if I get an S5 next season? I can't find any negative comments about RB other than isolated failures that were probably due to the user.
Question 1. I have not seen this as a fact I can walk into my lhs and there are RB's in the case. It is always possible that they have a new line coming out anythings possible. I would not worry about it RB is not going anywhere.

Question 2. In most cases to replace the items you have mentioned it's generally 1/2 the cost of the engine for most brands.

Question 3. I would never say any engine is perfect. However my experiences with RB's have been great. I had a temp problem with my S3 but I found it was due to the pipe I chose. RB's don't like JP's ask Roddy yourself on the RB USA site. You probally won't find many bad comments about RB's because there just great mill that last. Major drawback to the RB is the long breakin process. RB's don't hit there stride until after a gallon. This drawback also coincides with there upside of long life.

Quote:
Originally Posted by blktransam View Post
I have ran several RB's and novarossi's, the front bearing is about the only weak link in them IMO. right now I am running a c6bb7t in my rc8, and a ws7-3 LG2 in my XT8. no bearing issues yet but I do have ceramic bearings on hand for both engines for when they decied to go bad.....ther then that they seem to like to run cooler then other engines. my piccos and v-spec liked 250-280 temps, as my RB's like the lower 200-220 temps.
My RB's I found generally like to be around 240-250 for best performance. However understand thats my engines. Kinda like when your helping someone tune there engine. Every engine is as different as a fingerprint. Always keep in mind when getting help your tuning and running your engine. Your engine probally will not run and perform identical to the another engine of the same type and brand. To many factors come into play. Location, fuel, plugs, clutch health, diff oil and health, mesh, surface you run on and time your engine was manufactured. They all run similar but are all different as children from the same mother.
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Old 10-03-2008, 04:48 AM   #7
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Originally Posted by RAlmeida View Post
I have a C5 with 13 galons in it, the crank is now starting to wear on 25% nitro o'donnel fuel that I had 10 oz of synthetic/castor oil to a full galon
Interesting. When I bought my last OS the manual stated that with higher nitro it would be a good idea to add oil. Out of the 2 OS recommended lubes, tower hobbies carried one. I went to that lube's web site and read all about it and after reading all of the warnings of where and when NOT to use it and compatibility issues I decided it might get me into trouble.
Do you have enough other engine experience to feel like the additive got you to the 13 gallon mark? Or was it just an extra precaution?
Let me know what you use if you have a link handy. I'd like to look into it.

Last edited by bjr48; 10-03-2008 at 05:00 AM.
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Old 10-03-2008, 05:27 AM   #8
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Originally Posted by vladconnery View Post
Question 1. I have not seen this as a fact I can walk into my lhs and there are RB's in the case. It is always possible that they have a new line coming out anythings possible. I would not worry about it RB is not going anywhere.

Question 2. In most cases to replace the items you have mentioned it's generally 1/2 the cost of the engine for most brands.

Question 3. I would never say any engine is perfect. However my experiences with RB's have been great. I had a temp problem with my S3 but I found it was due to the pipe I chose. RB's don't like JP's ask Roddy yourself on the RB USA site. You probally won't find many bad comments about RB's because there just great mill that last. Major drawback to the RB is the long breakin process. RB's don't hit there stride until after a gallon. This drawback also coincides with there upside of long life.



My RB's I found generally like to be around 240-250 for best performance. However understand thats my engines. Kinda like when your helping someone tune there engine. Every engine is as different as a fingerprint. Always keep in mind when getting help your tuning and running your engine. Your engine probally will not run and perform identical to the another engine of the same type and brand. To many factors come into play. Location, fuel, plugs, clutch health, diff oil and health, mesh, surface you run on and time your engine was manufactured. They all run similar but are all different as children from the same mother.
1. Tower acted like they were taking orders at one time for a couple of weeks then it went to "temporarily unavailable." I found other online vendors the same way. I think AMain had them though. With it being new I figured either they had trouble supplying enough to everyone at once or feared that there was something that didn't go right and needed attention. I'm sure that by the time I order one next year that things will be fine but I was trying to see if anybody knew something I didn't.

2. Half the cost. I've noticed that about other brands. I guess that is a pretty good rule of thumb then.

3. I've been researching RB off and on since July. Last night I decided to register as a user on their forums. A large page of rules pops up to agree to that you will not discuss warranty claims, you will not talk about other brands, you will not ask what other pipes/plugs other than RB to use. I completely understand why and determined that RB is not the place to get all of my information from becuase it will be heavily biased, filtered, negative stuff deleted. Looks like Rody really takes care of those guys though. I'm excited to probably try an S5 next year.

As far as temps. I am almost done with that. It is a very good way to make sure you aren't melting it down but my OS was running great one day recently and at the end of the tank it was pushing 280F. One of the knowledgeable guys said it sounded like I needed to lean one of the needles just a bit more. I think it was LSN so I could get the jumps better - he said it looked and sounded like I needed more punch when he was out there marshalling and could hear that it needed it too. His gun temped it at 225F. I may switch to the water/spit trick next year and my temp gun will get little use.

I also don't see the long break in as a problem. I want my next engine to LAST!
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Old 10-05-2008, 07:35 PM   #9
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Default A little more...

Well, thanks for the encouragement I was told to also look at GRP and Dynamite but so far I'm sticking with RB as #1 choice
Before this post gets pushed to the bottom of the pile...

RAlmeida - can you point me to the oil that you are adding to your fuel?

I read on the RB forums that if you can afford to go up to the S5 vs. the S3 that it's well worth it but I am a little afraid of matching the engine to my track now that it has come down to making sure I get what I want. Our local track is smallish for 1/8 scale. I would guess that the straight is 60-75' long? The rest I need torque for short runups to clear the jumps. I did do OK with my OS VG21 on jumping but was usually coming up short. If I got the right line and had the bottom end lean enough I could just triple, etc. Any RB should have much more power but what is the powerband and power difference between the S5 and S3?
I was also told in another thread that my 9886 pipe should make top end power and I wasn't worried since I thought the RB S5 would have power everywhere compared to my OS and would help make up a little time on the straight during a race or whatever. What should I really be focusing on here??
Also, do you stick to stock plugs for the S5 or S3? What works good?
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Old 10-05-2008, 10:30 PM   #10
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My registration on their forums was denied for some reason. I still bought a WS7 L2G and it's a monster. Avoid the use of Jammin pipes, my JP-3 had my engine at 260-270 while idling during break in.
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Old 10-06-2008, 10:29 AM   #11
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My registration on their forums was denied for some reason. I still bought a WS7 L2G and it's a monster. Avoid the use of Jammin pipes, my JP-3 had my engine at 260-270 while idling during break in.
Haha yeah I cant get registered on the RB forums either, no biggie.

and +1 on the JP pipes, they dont work well on the RB motors, Rody even says so ont he RB forums, get an RB or a novarossi pipe, the motor really comes alive
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Old 10-06-2008, 03:01 PM   #12
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Default RB break-in special?

I found this on the RB website...

http://www.rbproducts.com/mainEn.php...in%20Procedure

From what I now understand about engines this method would seem to me to cause a lot of under-temp, stressful, high wearing running at first unless there is a way to keep it at normal running temps at IDLE FOR THE FIRST WHOLE TANK?! and blubbering rich on the track at part throttle. How can this be good for it?

Who has followed the factory recommendation at made it to the typical 6-10+ gallons??
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Old 10-06-2008, 05:43 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by bjr48 View Post
I found this on the RB website...

http://www.rbproducts.com/mainEn.php...in%20Procedure

From what I now understand about engines this method would seem to me to cause a lot of under-temp, stressful, high wearing running at first unless there is a way to keep it at normal running temps at IDLE FOR THE FIRST WHOLE TANK?! and blubbering rich on the track at part throttle. How can this be good for it?

Who has followed the factory recommendation at made it to the typical 6-10+ gallons??
Thats the only method I have used on my RB's. My engines have lasted well and all are still running my S3 has 8 gallons on it and has not lost power. MY WS7III has 4 and is running well also. I know about heat cycling and I am sure it works I just do the manufactors method. If heat cycling was the end all of engine break in. Why don't they make it the new standard. People have been using this same method since the begining of RC'ing and it's worked for coutless people. More people have screwed up there new engines trying heat cycling than you can count. And I am NOT saying heat cycling does not work or is not good for an engine. I just think if your going to do it you better have someone who is experienced with that method on hand to help you.
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Old 10-07-2008, 04:05 AM   #14
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Thats the only method I have used on my RB's. My engines have lasted well and all are still running my S3 has 8 gallons on it and has not lost power. MY WS7III has 4 and is running well also. I know about heat cycling and I am sure it works I just do the manufactors method. If heat cycling was the end all of engine break in. Why don't they make it the new standard. People have been using this same method since the begining of RC'ing and it's worked for coutless people. More people have screwed up there new engines trying heat cycling than you can count. And I am NOT saying heat cycling does not work or is not good for an engine. I just think if your going to do it you better have someone who is experienced with that method on hand to help you.
I tend to believe in manf. recommendations also. Glad to hear that it worked for you. I've seen your name plenty around here and know you have a lot of RB experience. I was hoping to hear from someone like that After buying into the newest method I was reading the RB site picturing a brand new engine sitting still running about 100-150 degrees shaving too much material off the brand new piston/sleeve and just beating the conrod to death

The method that most go with makes good physics and mechanical sense too though as far as how metals behave. The more modern method is basically different in the temperature goal for the first few runnings.

I'll probably follow RBs method to the letter then. When using this method, do you attempt to wrap the head to keep it warmer becuase it is going to break in pretty cool? Also, for the first tank is it easier to keep the idle right and follow what RB is saying if the wheels are off the ground? Did you change your conrod after break in or just keep inspecting it from time to time? Thanks for your help. I feel like I'm starting over again. This new "old" method brings up some questions
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Old 10-07-2008, 05:43 AM   #15
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I heated my engines up 1st with a blow dryer a heat gun will work well too. If you don't heat it up then it's going to be witch to turn over. Once I started my engine up, and it started on the 1st try and idle the entire tank without stoping. I didn't have a problem keeping the temp up. You can wrap the head in aluminum foil if need be.

Before you get to that part you should take the engine apart 1st and cleaning it out. Use WD40, denature alcohol or carb cleaner something of that nature. During the manufacturing process small shavings of metal are left behind. If you don't believe me when you do it use a white cool whip container and look inside it after your done. You will see what I am talking about. This should be done to all engines not just RB's.

No I did not change bearings or conrod or any of that stuff. Why would I if the engine can't last on original parts then It does not have longevity. I have not changed a thing in my RB's. Think about if the purpose of buying an RB is cost and longevity. If you put in a conrod you just spent more money on the engine a conrod on an S5 is $62 add that to the price new and you could hav bought the engine and pipe combo. I hears some people saying replace bearings after 1 gallon. Geesh thats another $40 atleast + the 62 for the conrod. You now have spent enough to buy a S7 another $60 you coulda bought the WS7III.

Heres my take and remember it's just my opinion. An engine is only a good quality engine if it meets these things. Affordability, low maintenance, easy to tune and long lasting. Replacing parts all the time is not low maintenance, low maintenance is cleaning & add ARO after each use. Ease of tuning is simply what it's states if I can't read a forum take there advise and figure out my tuning issue it's not easy to tune. I did need to seek advice when tuning my 1st RB because all engines tune different. Like some like a rich lsn, others like a lean lsn. Funny thing my Go was idling high and then dropping rpm's down. Went to there forum found out goes like there carb slide opening set at less than 1mm. Did it fixed my problem now thats what easy to tune means eveyone has tuning issues at some point. How easy are they to solve is always the question. Long lasting to me is if I can get 8+ gallon of good hard running by that time I want a new engine anyway. 8 gallons is alot of time on an engine you should grow tired of an engine. Not the engine gets tired on you. Affordability well thats always a matter of the person buying the engine. Whats affordable to me may not be the same to someone else. I can afford $500 engines I just don't see the point. I guess I am what you call a an underdog lover. If I have the most expensive buggy and best and most expensive engine and I beat you did I really accompish anything? I mean I had the best of everything I'm not supposed to lose. Now if I have avg. buggy and engine and I beat your $2000 buggy guess who's laughing all the way to the bank. I like a challenge!!!

Good Luck
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