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Old 09-30-2008, 02:44 PM   #1
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Default Adam Drake talks about the new 8ight 2.0

Adam Drake talks about the new 8ight 2.0

http://www.myrcbox.com/manufacturers...mc_8ightv2.htm
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Old 09-30-2008, 02:48 PM   #2
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Let me know if you have any questions about Losi or GRP Products.

Talk to you soon!

Adam
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Old 09-30-2008, 02:57 PM   #3
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Originally Posted by Adam Drake View Post
Let me know if you have any questions about Losi or GRP Products.

Talk to you soon!

Adam

Nice to see you here Adam. Just purchased my GRP Promo... what an amazing looking piece of aluminum. Any tips you can provide for break in, or just go by the book?
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Old 09-30-2008, 02:59 PM   #4
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Adam, do you run any titanium screws on your buggy, from the looks of truhe 8ight, it looked like he was running some lundsford screws. If you do run them, has there been any problems in durability, and any areas where not to put them.
Thanks
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Old 09-30-2008, 03:34 PM   #5
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boostfiend- Glad to hear you purchased a GRP engine. They are great engines. Out of the box the carb will be set very rich. Heat the engine with a temp gun to 160-170 degrees. Start the engine and adjust idle. I use a 1/10th scale truck tire foam to wrap around the head. This will help keep the engine up to temp during break-in. You want to keep the engine in the 170 - 180 degree range. Let the engine idle for 4-5 tanks. Now it's time to start running it on the track or in the street. You want to start with the engine a little on the high speed needle. It ok to run the engine with the low speed needle lean (race setting), but keep the high speed needle a little on the rich side for another 4-5 tanks. You want to make sure the engine is getting plenty of lubrication on the straights. It can take up to a full gallon of fuel before the engine is completely broken in. Be patient and take your time. It will pay off.

My GRP set-up for 8ight 2.0: #5 GRP glow plug, stock head shims, 6mm restrictor, 2053 GRP pipe and round header, steel flywheel, two alum. shoes with gold springs and two plastic shoes with green springs. 13 / 48 gearing.

My GRP set-up for 8ight T: #5 GRP glow plug, stock head shims, 7mm restrictor, 2053 GRP pipe and round header, alum. flywheel, two alum. shoes with gold springs and two plastic shoes with green springs. 13 / 50 gearing.

Mike Truhe's GRP set-up for 8ight 2.0: #4 GRP glow plug, stock head shims, 6mm restrictor, 2053 GRP pipe and round header, steel flywheel, two alum. shoes with gold springs and two plastic shoes with green springs. 13 / 48 gearing.


Mike Truhe's GRP set-up for 8ight T: #4 GRP glow plug, stock head shims, 7mm restrictor, 2053 GRP pipe and round header, steel flywheel, two alum. shoes with gold springs and two plastic shoes with green springs. 13 / 50 gearing.

spcpicard- Mike and I both run the Lunsford turnbuckles, shock mounts, king pins and some of the screws. They are very durable.
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Old 09-30-2008, 03:52 PM   #6
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boostfiend- Glad to hear you purchased a GRP engine......
Thanks for the great write-up! I'm sure this engine will meet or exceed my expectations.

PS; I'm the guy on Myspace that sent you the LONG mail right before the 'worlds' about sponsors. I really look forward to your reply when/if you have the time.

Hope all is well.
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Old 09-30-2008, 04:16 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Adam Drake View Post
boostfiend- Glad to hear you purchased a GRP engine. They are great engines. Out of the box the carb will be set very rich. Heat the engine with a temp gun to 160-170 degrees. Start the engine and adjust idle. I use a 1/10th scale truck tire foam to wrap around the head. This will help keep the engine up to temp during break-in. You want to keep the engine in the 170 - 180 degree range. Let the engine idle for 4-5 tanks. Now it's time to start running it on the track or in the street. You want to start with the engine a little on the high speed needle. It ok to run the engine with the low speed needle lean (race setting), but keep the high speed needle a little on the rich side for another 4-5 tanks. You want to make sure the engine is getting plenty of lubrication on the straights. It can take up to a full gallon of fuel before the engine is completely broken in. Be patient and take your time. It will pay off.

My GRP set-up for 8ight 2.0: #5 GRP glow plug, stock head shims, 6mm restrictor, 2053 GRP pipe and round header, steel flywheel, two alum. shoes with gold springs and two plastic shoes with green springs. 13 / 48 gearing.

My GRP set-up for 8ight T: #5 GRP glow plug, stock head shims, 7mm restrictor, 2053 GRP pipe and round header, alum. flywheel, two alum. shoes with gold springs and two plastic shoes with green springs. 13 / 50 gearing.

Mike Truhe's GRP set-up for 8ight 2.0: #4 GRP glow plug, stock head shims, 6mm restrictor, 2053 GRP pipe and round header, steel flywheel, two alum. shoes with gold springs and two plastic shoes with green springs. 13 / 48 gearing.


Mike Truhe's GRP set-up for 8ight T: #4 GRP glow plug, stock head shims, 7mm restrictor, 2053 GRP pipe and round header, steel flywheel, two alum. shoes with gold springs and two plastic shoes with green springs. 13 / 50 gearing.

spcpicard- Mike and I both run the Lunsford turnbuckles, shock mounts, king pins and some of the screws. They are very durable.
Awesome to see a good complete break-in and setup for the GRP engines. Hopefully people stick to the needle settings, as most will kill the engine with a lean HSN, where lubrication counts the most.
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Old 09-30-2008, 04:37 PM   #8
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If you could answer this please.

I've owned 2 eight buggys and going to get a new buggy in a couple of months. My second one was the race roller (hobby shop didn't have the kit) and it had several problems. IE... several stripped screws and two of the diffs had ZERO, ZILTCH, NADA oil in them (wich horizon fixed to their credit). But I'm not going to get the 2.0 if its only offered as a race roller. I love my buggys and have only ran LOSI (BK2, MF2, XXX4, XX4, XXXcr, Eight kit, Eight race roller) my entire raceing hobby. If it would be offered in a kit, it would be a slam dunk. If not, I'm looking at the 808 at just a few dollars more for the kit reason.

"I like to build"

So why only a race roller?
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Old 09-30-2008, 04:44 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by boostfiend View Post
Thanks for the great write-up! I'm sure this engine will meet or exceed my expectations.

PS; I'm the guy on Myspace that sent you the LONG mail right before the 'worlds' about sponsors. I really look forward to your reply when/if you have the time.

Hope all is well.


There is something I learned with time... Never talk sponsorship with racers or manufacturers ! LOL !!!!!
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Old 09-30-2008, 04:46 PM   #10
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There is something I learned with time... Never talk sponsorship with racers or manufacturers ! LOL !!!!!
Hehe, well it certainly wasn't a sponsorship request, just needed some advice. Adam is a straight shooter - always has been. I figured he'd be the guy to ask.
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Old 09-30-2008, 05:54 PM   #11
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Adam,

I have the grp tuned 21 and I am getting over 12 mins a tank with a little under a gallon on it. My question is about taking the temp. I don't tune by temp, but I due monitor the temps during break in and noticed that if I take the temp at the glow plug it's almost 30 deg cooler than at the base of the head where combustion is taking place. Which place is the proper place to temp it? At the glow plug it's reading 190 to 200 range. I also have another new tuned grp(ebay) minus the piston and sleeve (non-tuned version) and have 9 heat cycles I put on it yesterday and that's when I noticed the temp differences. I cycled it at 190 at the top of the crank case and it read 160 at the plug.

Thanks again.
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Old 10-01-2008, 01:38 AM   #12
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Adam you or mike over for the Novarossi GP this coming weekend ?? or maybe your on your way lol
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Old 10-01-2008, 01:49 AM   #13
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Adam, on the GRP break in, you have gone away from the heat cycling method which was detailed in one of the mags some time ago?

I'm guessing that (and rightly so) your GRP's aren't exactly off the shelf like we get. On this basis, I've found that the .21 is fantastic in the buggy but a little under powered in the truggy compared to other "torquier" motors out there. I was considering a GRP .28 and running a small restrictor to still achieve a 10 min run time. (I can go near 15min with the truggy and a 7mm restrictor - it is crazy long and this going well and no crashes!!!) What do you think of this option?

Thanks
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Old 10-01-2008, 09:55 AM   #14
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boostfiend- Please email me the message you sent on myspace. adrake@horizonhobby.com Sorry for the delay, but I don't check myspace.

jrwoodchuck- At this time we only have plans for a Race Roller for the 8ight 2.0. We are always trying to improve the quality of the Race Rollers and the 8ight 2.0 is great out of the box. A lot of time has gone into the built of the 8ight 2.0 and I think you will be impressed once you see it first hand.

spcpicard- I take all my temps at the glow plug / top of the engine head.

slow coach- Not going to make the Nova Rossi GP this weekend. I've had a great time the last two years, but 2008 was too busy with the Worlds.

ChrisL- It fine to do the heat cycle method from the mag., but this is how I break-in my GRP engines. The engines that Mike and I run are off the shelf engines. If you need more low-end power you can try an 8mm restrictor or a more aggressive clutch set-up. I have run the .28 in truggy, it has crazy low-end power, but I felt it was too much for most track conditions.
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Old 10-01-2008, 10:07 AM   #15
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Great to see you helping out on the forum Adam. I was at the JBRL race this past weekend and watched you and Mike race. It was a real treat to see. With the track so dry and blue-grooved, what tires/compound were you guys running for the buggy main?
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